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Old 04-01-2013, 07:20 PM   #11
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Lowes or Home Depot should have all the PEX fitting you need and the clamp kits... Get LOWES to demo how they go together.

I suspect those PEX lines can be longer that the real short ones presently being used. I haver worked with the PEX lines either but I would think you should be able to reuse the VALVES that are presently being used. The PEX lines just slip over the nipples and has a clamp over kit to make them secure and water tight. I bet GOOGLE will have some video's to watch on how to work with the PEX lines.

Roy Ken
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Old 04-01-2013, 08:14 PM   #12
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how cold did it get this winter where you are jacko147?
-3 F is the coldest it got, held around zero for a couple days
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Old 04-04-2013, 09:00 PM   #13
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-3 F is the coldest it got, held around zero for a couple days
It's still that cold here, I need to move.

With the expansion that happens when water freezes the lines must have been nearly full. I'm not sure how that happens with the water heater empty.

Regardless of how it happened its always a good idea to keep some extra pluming materials in the camper.

I should go check my lines, it's been way to cold here to even think about camping and still too much snow.
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Old 04-17-2013, 08:58 AM   #14
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New to forum - Used (well) 93 CB220 Jayco

I too have leaking and such at the water heater inlet/outlet and bypass valves, as well as under the kitchen sink for the drain valves. I'm assuming improper winterizing at some point in the past.

It seems there may be many more experienced here than I, and, I appreciate the diagram earlier in this thread that showed the bypass configuration. Can anyone tell me what the standard outside diameter of the tubing generally used in Jayco builds is? Is it 3/8" or 1/2"?

My TT is at a campground and I'm getting setup for the season where I will be there almost every weekend training. Unfortunately, it is a 4 hour drive, and, I didn't take pictures of the existing lines and valves. I want to get the parts needed to repair them before I go. I do believe that my existing lines are polybutylene with PEX "like" clamps on the fittings.

I appreciate any help anyone can offer.

-Michael
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Old 04-17-2013, 10:59 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by jacko147 View Post
I did drain the wh, I also blew air through the system with the wh valves open before I circulated antifreeze through the lines, I opened the low points for antifreeze, but I dont believe I opened the low point with the wh valves open and faucets, this is probably my mistake. Anyways I was out camping and made the repair in the campground, I found these valves at a local hardware store and was curious if they will be ok? http://www.pexuniverse.com/store/pro...ply-stop-valve
You definitely want a valve that (at a glance) tells you if it's open / closed (90 degree operation)
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Old 04-17-2013, 07:36 PM   #16
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You definitely want a valve that (at a glance) tells you if it's open / closed (90 degree operation)
These are 90 degree (1/4 turn)

Quote:
Originally Posted by [COLOR=#3E3E3E
MichaelG[/COLOR];128788]I too have leaking and such at the water heater inlet/outlet and bypass valves, as well as under the kitchen sink for the drain valves. I'm assuming improper winterizing at some point in the past.

It seems there may be many more experienced here than I, and, I appreciate the diagram earlier in this thread that showed the bypass configuration. Can anyone tell me what the standard outside diameter of the tubing generally used in Jayco builds is? Is it 3/8" or 1/2"?

My TT is at a campground and I'm getting setup for the season where I will be there almost every weekend training. Unfortunately, it is a 4 hour drive, and, I didn't take pictures of the existing lines and valves. I want to get the parts needed to repair them before I go. I do believe that my existing lines are polybutylene with PEX "like" clamps on the fittings.

I appreciate any help anyone can offer.
Mine are 1/2 pex lines, I had to purchase the pex clamps and cinch tool, I used regular hose clamps at the campground to get me out of a pinch, but they had a slow leak, the cinch clamps are the way to go, check amazon, I paid around $40 shipped for the tool and clamps
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Old 04-21-2013, 10:42 PM   #17
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DO NOT use any brass drain valve with a pet**** in place of the plastic drain plug on an Atwood hot water heater which is typically what Jayco uses on most campers except for large 5th wheels or Seneca's. If you don't use the plastic drain plug which is what Atwood installs from the factory you know have dis-similar metals and will create a galvanic reaction. Atwood puts this plastic plug there for a reason.
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