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02-27-2016, 09:41 PM
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#21
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Charleston
Posts: 1,714
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I wander if the bolt loosen because the wood compresses over time. Just thinking out loud. I will be sure to check mine in the spring.
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05-03-2016, 08:55 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Edmond
Posts: 171
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So I checked mine last night...we have 2016 264BHW...sure enough they were loose. This bothered me a bit and I called Jayco this morning. Talked to a very helpful gentlemen who used to work on the assembly line. He said they were NOT suppose to be loose and these do in fact bolt a floor plate to the exterior outriggers with a carriage type bolt. The interior (which mine are covered with underbelly garment) are self tapping so they would be fine. He was appreciative this was brought to their attention. He did mention they had changed their assembly lines duties and their must have been some miscommunication on who was responsible to tighten them. I told him there were several cases out there online on the forums of these loose nuts and lock washers. He did take my VIN # so it's at least on file with Jayco directly. I would suggest everyone call and let them know. I am already taking mine in to dealer on Saturday for hot water DSI Fault Light issue so he said bring it to their attention and tell them to fasten them down. There is no specific torque on them, just good and snug to flatten lock washer. I'll let my dealer do it under warranty.
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05-03-2016, 11:06 AM
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#23
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Yakima
Posts: 28
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I have a 2013 Dsrl with a covered belly and I don't see said bolts. I see some self tapping ones here and there and bolts for the steps and such... any pictures or a better location ideas?
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05-03-2016, 03:07 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Edmond
Posts: 171
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Here are two different pics of bolts, loose lock washer and loose nut
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05-03-2016, 03:14 PM
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#25
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Yakima
Posts: 28
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Thank you very much for the pictures, guess I'll go back out and look around.
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05-03-2016, 09:59 PM
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#26
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Yakima
Posts: 28
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Crawled back down under the trailer and found the bolts and all could be tightened some. Wouldn't say they were really loose, but they needed tightening. So thanks again for the heads up!
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05-04-2016, 08:40 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Edmond
Posts: 171
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Sounds like your unit was okay and that's good news. Mine was obviously not snug at all as the pics show. It is frustrating as a customer that we pay good money for these units and something like this just makes you wonder what else was overlooked during the build process. I will give Jayco credit that they do offer a 2 year warranty and with oversight like this that is some comfort.
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05-05-2016, 10:09 PM
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#28
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Wrightsville
Posts: 20
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Count me in... Or rather LOOSE!!
I ran into one that was falling-off loose when working on pulling a new 12 volt line from the battery into the forward pass through. 2016 trailer with about 9 miles on it (bringing it home).
Noted to self to tighten them all up. Not impressed with QC; but "bitchin 'bout it ain't fixin it" so they say and I'm not too impressed thus far with local Dealer.
Also, there's now a staple or nail working its way up in the middle of linoleum between the booth and the fridge... feels like badly joined sheets of sub floor.
I just hope everything else major works when I de-winterize and test everything next week!
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2016 264BHW
2016 Ford F-150 S-CREW Cab 3.5 L Eco-boost
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05-07-2016, 05:17 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Pahrump
Posts: 4,038
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I'm the kind who would never look for that problem. Sure will now. Thanks for the heads up and the photos.
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05-08-2016, 04:49 PM
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#30
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 47
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Two of the 15 perimeter bolts on my 2016 WH 24rks were so loose I could unscrew them by hand. The others varied in tightness so I snugged them all down with a socket wrench.
This is my first Jayco trailer, though I'm not new to RVing. I traded up for the quality but issues like this, leaks where the awning meets the exterior wall, and fresh water vent/overflow puking experienced by me and others across various models have me wondering.
JRD
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05-09-2016, 09:16 AM
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#31
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Tulsa
Posts: 70
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Never thought to tighten those bolts. Mine are rusty (came that way)as well as all the weld joint on the frame.
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2015 JayFlight SLX 264BHW
2005 Toyota Sequoia SR5 4.7 V8 trans cooler, elect fans, auto rear leveling system (bags) towing package. Rated to pull (according to dealer) 6700lbs.
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05-09-2016, 09:23 AM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Edmond
Posts: 171
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When I set out to fix something my goal is to only fix it one time...hence do it right the first time. I am going to replace regular nut with nylon lock nut along with supplied lock washer. My hope is to alleviate any chance it may loosen or back off in the future. P.S. how do you add "signature" to your posts showing unit and tow vehicle?
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07-06-2016, 07:52 AM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: South Texas
Posts: 7,216
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I finally got a chance to take a look at my trailer for this issue.
4 of the nuts were "finger loose", meaning that I could spin them with my finger. The rest were loose, but were not going to fall off. I was able to put a ratchet on each one and get at least one turn out of every nut on the perimeter to get them to what I would consider "snug", some took more than that.
I'm just glad that I didn't have more that were "fall off" loose. I will make this an annual check, and if they are loose again next year, I will consider Roosevelt008's idea and replace them with Nylocks (and still check them each year).
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07-06-2016, 08:09 AM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Edmond
Posts: 171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Camper_bob
I finally got a chance to take a look at my trailer for this issue.
4 of the nuts were "finger loose", meaning that I could spin them with my finger. The rest were loose, but were not going to fall off. I was able to put a ratchet on each one and get at least one turn out of every nut on the perimeter to get them to what I would consider "snug", some took more than that.
I'm just glad that I didn't have more that were "fall off" loose. I will make this an annual check, and if they are loose again next year, I will consider Roosevelt008's idea and replace them with Nylocks (and still check them each year).
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What I ended up doing was snugging the existing lock nut and lock washer and then still put a Nylock on top of that....it's probably overkill but now it's double nutted with Nylock...I'll post a pic if that doesn't make sense.
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07-06-2016, 08:17 AM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: South Texas
Posts: 7,216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roosevelt008
What I ended up doing was snugging the existing lock nut and lock washer and then still put a Nylock on top of that....it's probably overkill but now it's double nutted with Nylock...I'll post a pic if that doesn't make sense.
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Makes perfect sense, and probably a lot easier and faster than removing the existing nut and putting on the nylock.
But then I would question why use a nylock at all for the second nut? Wouldn't a regular nut act like a "jam" nut and accomplish the same thing more effectively? And cheaper than a fistfull of nylocks too. Not like that would be "prohibitively expensive", but I'm just curious...
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-1994 Jeep Wrangler YJ (Secondary Toad)
-2014 Jay Flight 28BHBE & Ram 2500 6.4L CC 4x4 (sold)
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07-06-2016, 08:43 AM
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#36
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Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: James Island, SC
Posts: 22,857
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Has anyone checked out the top of the bolt we are tightening?
I'm afraid to wrench it down because I think it is a carriage bolt that is going thru plywood.
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07-06-2016, 09:09 AM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: South Texas
Posts: 7,216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by norty1
Has anyone checked out the top of the bolt we are tightening?
I'm afraid to wrench it down because I think it is a carriage bolt that is going thru plywood.
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I thought about that. I could have tightened them more than I did. But I intentionally grabbed my short-handled 3/8" socket wrench so I couldn't get as much leverage. I didn't want anything to "pull through", just wanted to get them "snug". I would think you'd have to work pretty hard to pull a carriage bolt through the plywood floor? I'm pretty sure I couldn't do it with the wrench I was using without knowing I was wrecking something. I might get it "dimpled" up top, and I'm okay with that.
ETA: I was discussing this with my dad (he works commercial truck rental, box trucks and such) and many of his technicians tighten these nuts down way too much and end up pulling them through the floor of the box. He has to get on them often about not tightening these nuts too much. But then, they're using heavy shop tools. I could pull the carriage bolt through with a long-handled 1/2" drive socket, but that's why I used a smaller tool.
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-2018 Greyhawk 29MV
-2020 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (JLU) (Primary Toad)
-1994 Jeep Wrangler YJ (Secondary Toad)
-2014 Jay Flight 28BHBE & Ram 2500 6.4L CC 4x4 (sold)
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07-06-2016, 09:37 AM
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#38
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Newburgh
Posts: 6,307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Camper_bob
Makes perfect sense, and probably a lot easier and faster than removing the existing nut and putting on the nylock.
But then I would question why use a nylock at all for the second nut? Wouldn't a regular nut act like a "jam" nut and accomplish the same thing more effectively? And cheaper than a fistfull of nylocks too. Not like that would be "prohibitively expensive", but I'm just curious...
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I just double nutted mine to create a jam nut. I agree that nylock on top of another nut is overkill. Sadly, Mine were all loose on my 2016...
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07-06-2016, 09:59 AM
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#39
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Edmond
Posts: 171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by norty1
Has anyone checked out the top of the bolt we are tightening?
I'm afraid to wrench it down because I think it is a carriage bolt that is going thru plywood.
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Norty, I spoke with a gentleman at Jayco who used to work on the assembly line. You are correct that these are footplate bolts for the wall. He said they tighten them with impacts (which I'm sure are low torque or torqued to spec). When I tightened mine I only tightened to the point of flattening the lock washer....it was snug but I did not try to tighten mine to the point of no more turning...hope that helps
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