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Old 05-09-2016, 10:16 AM   #31
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Never thought to tighten those bolts. Mine are rusty (came that way)as well as all the weld joint on the frame.
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Old 05-09-2016, 10:23 AM   #32
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When I set out to fix something my goal is to only fix it one time...hence do it right the first time. I am going to replace regular nut with nylon lock nut along with supplied lock washer. My hope is to alleviate any chance it may loosen or back off in the future. P.S. how do you add "signature" to your posts showing unit and tow vehicle?
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Old 07-06-2016, 08:52 AM   #33
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I finally got a chance to take a look at my trailer for this issue.

4 of the nuts were "finger loose", meaning that I could spin them with my finger. The rest were loose, but were not going to fall off. I was able to put a ratchet on each one and get at least one turn out of every nut on the perimeter to get them to what I would consider "snug", some took more than that.

I'm just glad that I didn't have more that were "fall off" loose. I will make this an annual check, and if they are loose again next year, I will consider Roosevelt008's idea and replace them with Nylocks (and still check them each year).
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Old 07-06-2016, 09:09 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by Camper_bob View Post
I finally got a chance to take a look at my trailer for this issue.

4 of the nuts were "finger loose", meaning that I could spin them with my finger. The rest were loose, but were not going to fall off. I was able to put a ratchet on each one and get at least one turn out of every nut on the perimeter to get them to what I would consider "snug", some took more than that.

I'm just glad that I didn't have more that were "fall off" loose. I will make this an annual check, and if they are loose again next year, I will consider Roosevelt008's idea and replace them with Nylocks (and still check them each year).
What I ended up doing was snugging the existing lock nut and lock washer and then still put a Nylock on top of that....it's probably overkill but now it's double nutted with Nylock...I'll post a pic if that doesn't make sense.
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Old 07-06-2016, 09:17 AM   #35
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What I ended up doing was snugging the existing lock nut and lock washer and then still put a Nylock on top of that....it's probably overkill but now it's double nutted with Nylock...I'll post a pic if that doesn't make sense.
Makes perfect sense, and probably a lot easier and faster than removing the existing nut and putting on the nylock.

But then I would question why use a nylock at all for the second nut? Wouldn't a regular nut act like a "jam" nut and accomplish the same thing more effectively? And cheaper than a fistfull of nylocks too. Not like that would be "prohibitively expensive", but I'm just curious...
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Old 07-06-2016, 09:43 AM   #36
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Has anyone checked out the top of the bolt we are tightening?

I'm afraid to wrench it down because I think it is a carriage bolt that is going thru plywood.
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Old 07-06-2016, 10:09 AM   #37
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Has anyone checked out the top of the bolt we are tightening?

I'm afraid to wrench it down because I think it is a carriage bolt that is going thru plywood.
I thought about that. I could have tightened them more than I did. But I intentionally grabbed my short-handled 3/8" socket wrench so I couldn't get as much leverage. I didn't want anything to "pull through", just wanted to get them "snug". I would think you'd have to work pretty hard to pull a carriage bolt through the plywood floor? I'm pretty sure I couldn't do it with the wrench I was using without knowing I was wrecking something. I might get it "dimpled" up top, and I'm okay with that.

ETA: I was discussing this with my dad (he works commercial truck rental, box trucks and such) and many of his technicians tighten these nuts down way too much and end up pulling them through the floor of the box. He has to get on them often about not tightening these nuts too much. But then, they're using heavy shop tools. I could pull the carriage bolt through with a long-handled 1/2" drive socket, but that's why I used a smaller tool.
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Old 07-06-2016, 10:37 AM   #38
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Makes perfect sense, and probably a lot easier and faster than removing the existing nut and putting on the nylock.

But then I would question why use a nylock at all for the second nut? Wouldn't a regular nut act like a "jam" nut and accomplish the same thing more effectively? And cheaper than a fistfull of nylocks too. Not like that would be "prohibitively expensive", but I'm just curious...
I just double nutted mine to create a jam nut. I agree that nylock on top of another nut is overkill. Sadly, Mine were all loose on my 2016...
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Old 07-06-2016, 10:59 AM   #39
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Has anyone checked out the top of the bolt we are tightening?

I'm afraid to wrench it down because I think it is a carriage bolt that is going thru plywood.
Norty, I spoke with a gentleman at Jayco who used to work on the assembly line. You are correct that these are footplate bolts for the wall. He said they tighten them with impacts (which I'm sure are low torque or torqued to spec). When I tightened mine I only tightened to the point of flattening the lock washer....it was snug but I did not try to tighten mine to the point of no more turning...hope that helps
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