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Old 02-27-2017, 06:25 PM   #1
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26BH Furnace Vents

Just got back from taking our new 26BH on it's maiden voyage. Just a quick trip to a camp ground about an hour and a half away. Everything was great. The only negative thing I could think of was the furnace vent in the bedroom.

During night it got down to around 50 so I put the thermostat at a comfortable temperature. It worked well to keep the main living area at a good temperature, but the bedroom quickly would get overheated due to the vent in there. My question is has anyone dealt with this issue before and if so can you provide some suggestions or mods?
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Old 02-27-2017, 06:45 PM   #2
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26BH Furnace Vents

I changed out my bedroom vent to one that adjusts by twisting. It's a standard 4in vent. You can find them at most RV parts stores or on Amazon. Just search for 4in RV vent.
https://www.googleadservices.com/pag...Qwg8IKA&adurl=

On my existing vent, the outside just unclipped with a pull the inner ring then unscrewed and slid it out of the wall. There was a cable tie holding the duct on the back. Cut that and slide the duct off. The hardest part of the job is getting the duct to slide onto the new vent. Tie it on with a wire tie, and screw it back together.


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Old 02-27-2017, 07:01 PM   #3
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In our 26BH, I set the thermostat a few degrees cooler than comfortable at night ~65°. You can adjust the air flow direction by rotating the vent cover, maybe adjust it so it blows toward the passenger side of the camper and keep the curtain open about 6" to help equalize the temperature between the bedroom and the main area. Not sure if your hooked up to power or not but you could also turn the AC unit to "fan only" low speed just to help move the air around the cabin as well. Same goes with the ceiling vents, you can rotate them for air flow direction but you can also close them off unlike the heater vents. The white noise of the fan on low helps our kids fall asleep much better too.

Just a quick note, I upgraded the thermostat to the digital model and it keeps the temperature much more consistent, usually within a couple of degrees unlike the stock thermostat that has a much larger temperature swing of 5-10°. You can search the forum to find the direct replacement that is a wire for wire swap. Cost is around $65 if I remember correctly.

Glad to hear you are enjoying your new travel trailer.

Happy Camping!!


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Old 02-27-2017, 07:29 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuddyRay View Post
I changed out my bedroom vent to one that adjusts by twisting. It's a standard 4in vent. You can find them at most RV parts stores or on Amazon. Just search for 4in RV vent.
https://www.googleadservices.com/pag...Qwg8IKA&adurl=

On my existing vent, the outside just unclipped with a pull the inner ring then unscrewed and slid it out of the wall. There was a cable tie holding the duct on the back. Cut that and slide the duct off. The hardest part of the job is getting the duct to slide onto the new vent. Tie it on with a wire tie, and screw it back together.


Buddy Ray - Atlanta
---------------
Jayco Eagle HT 26.5RLS
Ford F150 Lariat, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost
Max Tow Pkg, 36gal tank
Reese Sidewinder and Reese Titan 16k hitch
Thanks for the suggestion. I am now looking for a heat vent with a damper that would allow me to direct the heat as well as limit the amount of airflow.
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Old 02-27-2017, 07:35 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Duke_26 View Post
In our 26BH, I set the thermostat a few degrees cooler than comfortable at night ~65°. You can adjust the air flow direction by rotating the vent cover, maybe adjust it so it blows toward the passenger side of the camper and keep the curtain open about 6" to help equalize the temperature between the bedroom and the main area. Not sure if your hooked up to power or not but you could also turn the AC unit to "fan only" low speed just to help move the air around the cabin as well. Same goes with the ceiling vents, you can rotate them for air flow direction but you can also close them off unlike the heater vents. The white noise of the fan on low helps our kids fall asleep much better too.

Just a quick note, I upgraded the thermostat to the digital model and it keeps the temperature much more consistent, usually within a couple of degrees unlike the stock thermostat that has a much larger temperature swing of 5-10°. You can search the forum to find the direct replacement that is a wire for wire swap. Cost is around $65 if I remember correctly.

Glad to hear you are enjoying your new travel trailer.

Happy Camping!!


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https://www.amazon.com/Coleman-83303...dp/B004RCOU9Y/
Is that the thermostat you are talking about?

Do you know of any other thermostat that would work and have more digital controls like this one (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002RL9BIM/)

Thanks for the suggestions. I was already looking to replace the analog with a digital, but your information on the 5-10 degree swing is making that happen a LOT quicker for me. Can't wait to get out again and do some more camping.
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Old 02-27-2017, 07:54 PM   #6
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From reading previous posts on the forum, I would be careful about doing something that will restrict the airflow. If your furnace is set up like mine there are only 2 vents. I have read on here where reduced airflow could cause the furnace to overheat and malfunction. The digital thermostat will help with your problem. We also set up a couple small fans to help circulate air around the camper to keep the temp even throughout.
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Old 02-27-2017, 08:00 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by klpoppe View Post
From reading previous posts on the forum, I would be careful about doing something that will restrict the airflow. If your furnace is set up like mine there are only 2 vents. I have read on here where reduced airflow could cause the furnace to overheat and malfunction. The digital thermostat will help with your problem. We also set up a couple small fans to help circulate air around the camper to keep the temp even throughout.
I had that same thought about the restricted airflow. I wonder if I could install a Y and install an extra vent in the living area to offset any restrictions. Although I agree the digital thermostat will probably have the most noticeable affect.
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Old 02-27-2017, 08:14 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by judge View Post
https://www.amazon.com/Coleman-83303...dp/B004RCOU9Y/

Is that the thermostat you are talking about?



Do you know of any other thermostat that would work and have more digital controls like this one (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002RL9BIM/)



Thanks for the suggestions. I was already looking to replace the analog with a digital, but your information on the 5-10 degree swing is making that happen a LOT quicker for me. Can't wait to get out again and do some more camping.


This is the one I ordered. It is a wire for wire swap made by the same company that makes the stock one.




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Old 02-28-2017, 07:33 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klpoppe View Post
From reading previous posts on the forum, I would be careful about doing something that will restrict the airflow. If your furnace is set up like mine there are only 2 vents. I have read on here where reduced airflow could cause the furnace to overheat and malfunction. The digital thermostat will help with your problem. We also set up a couple small fans to help circulate air around the camper to keep the temp even throughout.
My WH 25BHS is just the opposite as for the airflow. It blows extremely hard out the black cover that is in the main living area cause it's connected 2" off the furnace and the bathroom blows pretty good too. But up front in the bedroom it barely blows causing the bedroom to be cold. I dampened the main vent about 30% and it blow nicely in the bedroom but you are right about how hot the furnace gets so I wonder if I'm doing it damage. I did notice that it must have some kinda heat sensor cause when it runs for awhile the heat part will turn off while it still blows then the heat will ignite for awhile when we're trying to bring the coach up to temp. This is probably a feature to keep it from over heating. But maybe I should take out the damper.

I took the panel off and I can see I have tubing going to the bathroom, one goes to the front bedroom, and one goes down into the floor towards the tank. I'm assuming this is the one that blows into the floor around the holding tanks people have talked about when discussing the Glacier Package.

Wish I had more airflow to the front of the coach.
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Old 02-28-2017, 09:13 PM   #10
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When the furnace quits burning and blows for a few minutes and then re-lights it's tripping on the high limit switch. Basically the heat exchanger is getting too hot. It's a safety and the more it trips the weaker it gets.
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