29RKS slide out super slow and struggling

[homer1959]

My slide out , especially when coming inside, hummmms and started to move super slowly especially on my fullly charged 12 volts battery .


The first foot coming in is where we start to worry, it looks like the slide have to * climb * a bit before coming . One day Im sure that he is going to refuse to move.


Yesterday I had to push on the button for a long 3 sec before something started to move , it hummm like a loaded electric motor do and then it came in slowly but steady .



next question if I ever have to take it in manually, where do I have to look for a crank ? nothing visible from the outside



Thanks guys

[Grumpy]

You have a flush floor slide and they do start out slow.

The access for the manual crank would be outside and possibly on the opposite side. There could be a hole in the frame to slide the crank into. There could also be a panel cut into the corplast underneath that is sealed with tape to access the motor.

[MichaelO]

What would you crank it with?

[Route 66 Traveler]

Usually a 3/4 inch wrench or socket. Mine is accessible from a removable panel on the bottom of the trailer

Originally Posted by homer1959

My slide out , especially when coming inside, hummmms and started to move super slowly especially on my fullly charged 12 volts battery . next question if I ever have to take it in manually, where do I have to look for a crank ? nothing visible from the outside

Make sure your trailer is level with the support jacks extended and either plugged into shore power or your tow vehicle. Sounds to me like you aren't getting enough power to the motor.

[homer1959]

Grumpy thanks Ill take a better look, its probably under the coroplast since I havent found any hole in the frame for the crank



Route66


Trailer was level with the jack not extended .... I usually leave them cranked and supportive but anyway I was level with a fully charged battery.



My trailer is at the dealership for other problem and I asked them to look at it to see if nothing is binding or if the motor and or motors arent pulling to much amps



thanks to all for your input

[Route 66 Traveler]

Originally Posted by homer1959

Route66

Trailer was level with the jack not extended .... I usually leave them cranked and supportive but anyway I was level with a fully charged battery.

Were you trying it on just the trailer battery? Do you have one battery, or two in parallel? Slide motors pull a lot of power. I ALWAYS run my slides when connected to a 120 volt power source.

[homer1959]

Lee, only one battery. Almost new and fully charged , and yes it seems to me that the slide out motor have a bit more torque when plugged in the house . However I have to rely on the battery while I am on the road. We need to open the silde to access the kitchen if we want to eat more than a sandwich :-) Anyway they are going to make sure that all is ok. Is there any maintenance to do on the mechanical side of the slide out ? Roller gear rack slider etc etc .


I would like to find a exploded view of my slide out to see the construction and the mechanism , any link that you might have ?

[Route 66 Traveler]

Maybe this might help.


https://support.lci1.com/power-gear-...ide-out-system

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o_3vc0STmfI

[MichaelO]

I’ll have to look for the spot to manually crank mine the next time I’m at the trailer.

[homer1959]

Thanks you Lee, super interesting , lots of infi there, almost too much info :-) I got to find the exact type I have , ill take a deeper look later

[Wsw]

If there is even a hint of issue. Change the motor out now. I bought a motor online and changed it out in about 30 minutes. Easier to do it before you need to. Online I found a motor for around 300. Actually pretty easy.

[homer1959]

Originally Posted by Wsw

If there is even a hint of issue. Change the motor out now. I bought a motor online and changed it out in about 30 minutes. Easier to do it before you need to. Online I found a motor for around 300. Actually pretty easy.

before spending 300 on a maybe :-) Ill let the dealer and Jayco to do whatever they have to do , to document, and supply their report to me, nothing like building his business case :-)





Any way thanks !!

[muckinfuss]

slide issues come in two flavors, electrical and mechanical. A quick first step is to bring the slide in a few inches..stop...go outside and measure the distance from the body to the face edge of the slide. If not equal, it could be off a tooth or two on the track, this causes a binding. Always lube the mechanism well each year.

Another thing to check if you have a multimeter with an amperage claw..takes two people...one at the positive on the battery with the ampmeter working and the other moving the slide. If the amps jump high and then taper off to a lower number, it could be the motor starting to fail. If a brush motor, possible cheap and easy fix, DIY even. Another option if you have a alternator/starter motor repair shop in your area is to let them check it out (removed from your rig, of course) and I'm fairly certain that even a brushless repair is way cheaper than replacement.

The third thing that can be an issue is a wire/ground issue. Quite the Easter Egg hunt that requires tracer knowledge and a couple of people...which is why it takes time and money and usually puts a DIY over the edge.

There are others, but are in the 1% zone, such as a failing switch etc. A good trace would find that tho. Sometimes these solutions are like chasing a fly.

[homer1959]

Muckinfuss , Thanks for all the idea !!

[MichaelO]

Originally Posted by muckinfuss

slide issues come in two flavors, electrical and mechanical. A quick first step is to bring the slide in a few inches..stop...go outside and measure the distance from the body to the face edge of the slide. If not equal, it could be off a tooth or two on the track, this causes a binding. Always lube the mechanism well each year.

Another thing to check if you have a multimeter with an amperage claw..takes two people...one at the positive on the battery with the ampmeter working and the other moving the slide. If the amps jump high and then taper off to a lower number, it could be the motor starting to fail. If a brush motor, possible cheap and easy fix, DIY even. Another option if you have a alternator/starter motor repair shop in your area is to let them check it out (removed from your rig, of course) and I'm fairly certain that even a brushless repair is way cheaper than replacement.
The third thing that can be an issue is a wire/ground issue. Quite the Easter Egg hunt that requires tracer knowledge and a couple of people...which is why it takes time and money and usually puts a DIY over the edge.

There are others, but are in the 1% zone, such as a failing switch etc. A good trace would find that tho. Sometimes these solutions are like chasing a fly.

What is the proper lube for that?

[muckinfuss]

There is something called slide lube, I've seen it for sale at the RV dealership, never bought any tho. I use a spray white lithium. It's an old standby for metal to metal and moderate pressure applications. It's at just about any auto supply and even HD or Lowes will have some...usually in with the WD40 line of products.

[Bayoutalker]

Originally Posted by MichaelO

What is the proper lube for that?

I used a WD-40 brand silicon spray on mine. It seems to work fine.

https://www.wd40.com/products/silicone-lubricant/

[Aggie79]

I recently had a similar issue with my door side (kitchen) slide out. My kitchen slide out has a Schwintek In-Wall Slide-Out. The gear teeth were binding a bit and slowing down the motor. The under warranty fix was to replace the Schwintek gears/track and the motor. Working fine now but have only put the slide in and out once since the repair.

[AV8R]

Originally Posted by homer1959

Lee, only one battery. Almost new and fully charged , and yes it seems to me that the slide out motor have a bit more torque when plugged in the house . However I have to rely on the battery while I am on the road. We need to open the silde to access the kitchen if we want to eat more than a sandwich :-) Anyway they are going to make sure that all is ok. Is there any maintenance to do on the mechanical side of the slide out ? Roller gear rack slider etc etc .


I would like to find a exploded view of my slide out to see the construction and the mechanism , any link that you might have ?

One battery really isn't enough. At a minimum, you need two, and your best bet would be to have two six volt deep cycle batteries wired in series, which will give your coach 12 voits and lots of amprage. Better is four six volt batters wired in banks of two each in series, then those two banks wired in parallel.

[MichaelO]

Originally Posted by AV8R

One battery really isn't enough. At a minimum, you need two, and your best bet would be to have two six volt deep cycle batteries wired in series, which will give your coach 12 voits and lots of amprage. Better is four six volt batters wired in banks of two each in series, then those two banks wired in parallel.

4 6 volts would be great if you have room for them. The 29RKS only has room for 2. There’s not much room in between the propane tanks and the front of the box. A battery box may not fit across the tongue of the trailer in that spot. Some lithium ion batteries in the storage compartment would allow for more batteries, but that’s a large initial investment.