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Old 02-13-2022, 11:42 AM   #1
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2K Inverter but no Microwave

Hello everyone. I have a Jayco 224BH. I hope someone will be able to explain this to me. I just finished installing 570 watt Go Power solar system with a 60A MPPT Solar Controller and a 2000Watt Inverter/Charger. I have (5) 100Amp/Hour deep cell marine batteries as a bank. I used the Jayco supplied Romax 14/2 wire that I found in the pass-thru that was labeled for inverter use. All I have are a few inside outlets that are live and the TV. I do not have the microwave or any GFCI outlets which include the bathroom and outside.

What do I have to do to get all the outlets working? Can someone explain?

Thanks
Jim
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Old 02-13-2022, 01:21 PM   #2
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That #14 Romex is only good for 15 amps and will only be set up for one branch circuit. In order to do what you want they usually use an Inverter sub panel and then connect the branch circuits to it. The Inverter needed will either have an internal or independent transfer switch to allow it to feed the sub panel with shore power as well.
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Old 02-13-2022, 01:30 PM   #3
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Sounds like your rig is wired like most are when an inverter is mostly used to power a TV. Mine is that way and from what I have seen on this forum, that is the norm. Most rigs are not set up for inverter high power use such as a microwave as using an inverter for such things will pull over 100 amps from a battery.

Since you have such a large bank of batteries you will have the capacity to run a microwave for a period of time. I am not sure a 2000 watt inverter would be ideal for a microwave as you want some extra reserve capacity so as not to max out the inverter. You will have to look closely at the specs for inverter output and microwave requirements.

To get the inverter to power additional outlets will require some rewiring. Unless you know what you are doing this should be left up to an expert. It will require taking the output from the transfer switch that the inverter feeds and changing which breakers/outlets are being powered. Not a big deal if you are familiar with 120 volt operation.

Another thing to consider is the 12 volt input to the inverter. If you will be pulling 100 amps from the battery bank you will need some very hefty battery cables feeding the inverter. The inverter may have a spec for this.

I typically tell people that inverters are extreme power hogs when it comes to batteries. Since you have a bank of 5 batteries you are well equipped for inverter usage. You will still have to limit inverter usage because your solar system will require a lot of time to recharge 5 batteries. Off the top of my head I would say the solar could take more than a day to recharge a bank of 5 dead batteries.

I have 2 deep cycle batteries and 400 watts of solar through a 60 amp MPPT controller. The solar puts out 16 amps to the batteries. If I am running my Direct TV during the day the solar basically mostly keeps up with the draw to fully charged batteries. I doubt it would have enough extra to recharge the batteries if they were down.
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Old 02-13-2022, 08:21 PM   #4
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Thanks guys. The cables from the inverter to the batteries are 2/0 gauge and only about 4-1/2 feet. The inverter has (2) inputs available and (2) outputs.

I'm not an electrician, but I am a Manufacturing Engineer and have wired an entire house from scratch (all to code and inspected).

So, I'm guessing if I find the circuit breaker for the microwave in the "Power Center" I can run the output from the inverter to that breaker. But where do I run the second input from? You had mentioned wiring a sub-panel. I see that as being useful if the inverter only had a single input and output. But it seems I can run two independent circuits as if it was a sub panel due to the two inputs and two outputs. The inverter also automatically switches between shore power and battery power. I've run my generator and the sub-panel for the inverter will show how many amps it is charging and I'll know when the batteries are getting full because the amps will slowly decrease as the batteries charge.

Oh, on sunny days, I can pushing out as many as 35+ amps. The picture below was taken right after the solar controller was turned on. I think because I have my panels on adjustable tilting brackets, I can get more direct sunlight.

[IMG]C:\My Files\Mire Branch\Pictures\Solar Controller on a sunny day.jpg[/IMG]
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Old 02-13-2022, 08:25 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Kay-Jay View Post
So, I'm guessing if I find the circuit breaker for the microwave in the "Power Center" I can run the output from the inverter to that breaker. ]
Not unless you use a sub panel. Only other way would be to use a junction box and run the micro feed (all 3 wires) directly to the inverter by passing the main breaker panel.
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Old 02-13-2022, 08:27 PM   #6
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My computer updated yesterday and now I don't know how to get the file path to the picture. So if the picture is not there, sorry. But I was just about maxing out on the wattage at 542 on a 570 watt 3 panel package.
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Old 02-14-2022, 10:22 AM   #7
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Just run a 12-2 cord from the inverter to the TT's shore power inlet.
Or install an auto transfer switch between the WFCO and the inverter.
I went the 1st route as it was cheaper and easier. I ran the 12-2 cord above the coroplast and through a hole in the bumper. The excess is in the bumper. When I want to run the micro or anything else for that mater I simply remove the bumper end cap and plug the 30A twist lock in the TT's shore inlet. Now the whole TT is powered through my Aims 2000W inverter. I can run the micro easily. It's not like anyone really cooks in one. Mainly 1-2 min bursts for reheating.
Al I have to do is to remember to turn the charger in the WFCO off or I get a loop and the batteries would go down fast. For me it's a quick flip of the 3rd breaker down the row.
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Old 02-14-2022, 11:41 AM   #8
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I like the idea and will use it if I don't figure out how to wire it from the Power Center. It's just that I know it's available and possible, I just need a little guidance on how to do it. I don't think I have to do the sub-panel deal. I just need another circuit going to and from the power center and the inverter.
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Old 02-14-2022, 02:11 PM   #9
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This will do the trick if you want an ATS. Another reason I didn't go the ATS route is we tend to have our Dish satellite activated when dry camping. If I switch back and forth I'll lose the Dish connection and will have to re-aim the sat again.
Plus my WFCO is behind a couple small drawers and it's a Houdini act to reach in far enough to wire it up.
https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Transfer...D5110010Q.html
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Old 02-14-2022, 02:31 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by goducks View Post
This will do the trick if you want an ATS. Another reason I didn't go the ATS route is we tend to have our Dish satellite activated when dry camping. If I switch back and forth I'll lose the Dish connection and will have to re-aim the sat again.
Plus my WFCO is behind a couple small drawers and it's a Houdini act to reach in far enough to wire it up.
https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Transfer...D5110010Q.html
I have Direct TV and when I switch from generator to inverter or visa versa, the box would drop out and require another 10 minutes to reboot. Problem has been eliminated by using an inexpensive UPS to provide power to the box during changeover. It only needs to backup the 120 volt power for a few seconds so it doesn't take much of a power supply. Works great!
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Old 02-15-2022, 09:49 AM   #11
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I think I'm starting to understand more about the Inverter/Charger. Please let me know if I am correct.

On the Inverter the AC "IN" line 1 and 2 are for external shore power, generator power or a line coming from the Power Center (converter in this case) used for charging the batteries. The AC "OUT" lines 1 and 2 are to either power a circuit or a sub-panel. The inverter gets its power for the AC circuits from the batteries (if there isn't any shore power).

So since I am dry-camping and I have no shore power and my solar controller handles charging my batteries, I don't even need a line "IN" on my inverter. And I can run a line from the "OUT" and go directly to the plug for shore power (sorry I don't know what it is called) like Grumpy had described. Now, if I do hook-up to shore power or the generator, I need to have a cut-off for that line coming from the inverter.

Am I understanding it correctly?

Jim
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Old 02-15-2022, 11:04 AM   #12
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Sorry, it was Goducks not Grumpy that mentioned the shore power inlet.
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