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Old 03-04-2012, 12:06 AM   #1
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30A at home

Read Jayco manual and it says not to adapt 30A cord etc etc y'all know. Talked to Jayco via phone and they held the "cover our rear ends" position but "off the record" candidly speaking they said I could use an adapter 30A to 15A safely at home, standard outlet, as long as I didn't try to run everything in the TT(which I told them was not the case) Can I get by safely running the fridge(alone) before going on a trip using this power source? Am installing the P.I. EMS-HW30C before attempting. Good idea or recipe for disaster? Eventually I will install a 30A hookup at home once I quit spending money on TT accessories. Arcs and sparks are never good unless you are Noah or Bosch/Champion. Thanks for any and all replies
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Old 03-04-2012, 04:10 AM   #2
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I installed a 15a circuit on the outside of the building we store at. Have plugged in and run the fridge for a few days before and never had a problem. I have also run the fan on the AC without any issues either.
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Old 03-04-2012, 06:16 AM   #3
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I do it all the time. As long as you do not run the AC or microwave I see no problem. Just use a good quality extension cord. I have a voltmeter in the trailer and maintain good voltage with this setup. Turn on the AC and voltage will drop significantly.
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Old 03-04-2012, 07:14 AM   #4
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i had the same concern but we had no probs with our camp driveway shake down this weekend. just dont run all appliances at once like the others had said.
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Old 03-04-2012, 07:25 AM   #5
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The breaker at the stick house breaker panel will not let you draw more than 15A(hopefully). Make sure the extension cord is rated for at least 15A. A lot of them are made with #16 wire.
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Old 03-04-2012, 11:56 AM   #6
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running just the fridge and the converter will be no problem for a 15 amp circuit. Just dont try to run the A/C on that...
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Old 03-04-2012, 12:45 PM   #7
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Thanks everybody. Good to know, eases my mind. No extension cord needed. TT's shore line power cable long enough to reach outlet w/adapter. Only other concern was that it was not an isolated outdoor outlet. Other items are plugged in line as well before end of the line outlet(i.e. box freezer, refridgerator in garage) Should still be ok I believe. Going to do a driveway "shakedown". Never ran fridge at dealership so hopefully it works(rookie mistake) Could run off propane I guess to test. If not that's what the warranty is for right?
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Old 03-04-2012, 04:53 PM   #8
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Worst that could happen is you could pop the house breaker. Your RV fridge isn't going to pull heavy current like the house model.
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Old 03-05-2012, 12:10 PM   #9
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I would get a full 20 amp high quality extension cord and keep it as short as possible. Running every light in the camper will pull about 10 amps, with the fridge you will push 12 or so...so you should be fine....just keep and eye on your voltage. Long extension can cause voltage drops. I have a PI EMS as well and it should keep you protected if you accidentally start pulling too much in most cases - but it will not protect you from bad or undersized extension cords.



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Old 03-05-2012, 01:12 PM   #10
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How does a slide do on 15amps.
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Old 03-05-2012, 02:00 PM   #11
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Can I jump in here w/a question, please? My 2k12 Jayco SLX 184 BH has a side wall mounted factory AC. It's actually nothing more than a small apartment size window mounted model. The tech specs book on it reads that it's rated volts are 120, Amps- 10, requires standard 3 prong wall outlet, and Fuse size-15 amps.

I understand this to mean that the shore cord can be plugged into my garage standard plug w/adapter of course and the AC should run and perform w/out and problem or problem causing issues. Input/feedback please. Thanx
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Old 03-05-2012, 03:49 PM   #12
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I just installed a 30amp RV plug on the outside of my house to aleveate any problems. It just makes things easier. Now I just back in the driveway and hook up, just like at the camp ground. If I need the AC on while loading up, I don't have worry about popping breakers.
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Old 03-05-2012, 04:07 PM   #13
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That's definitely the way to do it.
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Old 03-05-2012, 11:07 PM   #14
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At home we changed the 15 amp for a 20 amp. We only use it for the refrigerator, lights, and to keep the batteries charged. I go from 50 at the trailer to 30 to 20.
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Old 03-05-2012, 11:58 PM   #15
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Thanks clutch. Not a bad idea. Just beef up the 15A to a 20A instead of running an all new 30A since no one is going to be living in it parked at home and running the AC or microwave. Would also help since there is a refrig and freezers "upstream" in the garage and I could still run TT refrigerator, lights and keep batteries charged w/o the hassle and expense of running a new 30A outlet. And after widening the driveway for the TT parking area (on existing driveway now making it cramped parking) I would need an extension cord.
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Old 03-06-2012, 07:14 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheetahflip View Post
Thanks clutch. Not a bad idea. Just beef up the 15A to a 20A instead of running an all new 30A since no one is going to be living in it parked at home and running the AC or microwave. Would also help since there is a refrig and freezers "upstream" in the garage and I could still run TT refrigerator, lights and keep batteries charged w/o the hassle and expense of running a new 30A outlet. And after widening the driveway for the TT parking area (on existing driveway now making it cramped parking) I would need an extension cord.
Well, you still may be running all new wire. You can't just swap out a 15 amp breaker and outlet. If you don't have 12 ga wire already running there, do NOT install a 20 amp breaker on this circuit. You run a far greater risk than just popping a breaker.

I don't mean to come across as harsh, but just don't want to see anyone lose their home or worse trying to do something that isn't right or safe.
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Old 03-06-2012, 11:55 AM   #17
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Thanks for the concern jw. It's already 12-2 Romex. If I drop in a 30A outlet just for the TT I'll be running the 10ga. I just hate running new wires etc, messing with electrical in my house. My house is a 1971 and Crazy Bob and his assistant Twitchy Willie did the wiring over the years. I throw a breaker in the box and I lose power to at least 1 item in every room. Like they just grabbed the closest hot wire and said this will work. Looked at 10ga today and it's running approx $2 a ft. plus the price of new breaker,box,outlet etc.
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Old 03-06-2012, 01:31 PM   #18
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Sounds good.

When I built my barn in '05 I installed 100 A service to it. All of my electrical circuits are 20 A except for the light, there are 4 15 A lighting only circuits. I then also ran a 30 A circuit for a camper. Wife asked why since we didn't have a camper at the time. I said, because you never know. 2 years later we bought our first camper. 2 years later, we sold it and bought the Jayco. I now sometimes wonder if I shouldn't have put a 50 A outlet there as well.:hihi: I have the box, outlet, and weather proof cover for it as I had it hooked up when we lived in my cousin's fiver for about a month when our house burnt.
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Old 03-06-2012, 02:37 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LBL 1206 View Post
Can I jump in here w/a question, please? My 2k12 Jayco SLX 184 BH has a side wall mounted factory AC. It's actually nothing more than a small apartment size window mounted model. The tech specs book on it reads that it's rated volts are 120, Amps- 10, requires standard 3 prong wall outlet, and Fuse size-15 amps.

I understand this to mean that the shore cord can be plugged into my garage standard plug w/adapter of course and the AC should run and perform w/out and problem or problem causing issues. Input/feedback please. Thanx
That is only if you run NOTHING else... but since your converter is always on... and I bet your fridge is too... you will be popping a breaker or worse doing a brownout on the A/C unit...
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Old 03-06-2012, 08:20 PM   #20
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That is only if you run NOTHING else... but since your converter is always on... and I bet your fridge is too... you will be popping a breaker or worse doing a brownout on the A/C unit...
Agreed...your converter with the battery charging and the lights on can easily pull 10 amps. Now - having said that...I have a generator that puts out 2200 watts. If I want to run my AC with the generator I turn off all the breakers expect the AC and it does great. BUT - you have to really be careful and be willing to take the risk of "running on the edge". If you do not have a complete understanding of power, voltage drops, wire sizes, amperage, etc then I would not try to run the A/C -- not worth the risk.



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