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Old 03-06-2016, 10:17 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by dalebra View Post
I agree with others saying it more work then it's worth. However, that is your choice.
If you plug a box that has a 30A receptacle and a 20A receptacle that is protected with it's own 20A breaker you will technically be good because if you exceed 30A the main CG post breaker will blow. And if you overload the 20A outlet the 20A breaker will blow. This may not meet NEC or local code but I would be fine with it.
The key comment from above is that the 20a receptacle needs to have its own 20a breaker, or you will be providing/ allowing up to 29.9 amps to be drawn from the 20a receptacle and appliance plugged into it.

Without 20a protection, this would be a hazard

My .02

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Old 03-06-2016, 10:42 PM   #12
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To strongly agree with what Jim says you indeed want a 20-amp breaker to limit current to the 20-amp outlet. I would also strongly advise that the 20-amp outlet be a GFCI outlet to offer ground-fault protection, since you mention a cord feeding a remote gazebo. Or you could make the 20-amp breaker itself a GFCI type.

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Old 03-06-2016, 10:59 PM   #13
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Have you spoken with the campground to see what they could do for you? Perhaps there is another pedestal close to your gazebo, that you could plug into. Am I correct in assuming your running a long power cord from your RV to the pedestal now and don't want to add an additional cord, running next to (or zipped tied to) your RV power cord. Then run it the short distance to the gazebo. Your not going to be drawing much power with a light an a radio so most any std. extension cord would work. Otherwise, you would want to get an RV power box, with a 30 amp 120 plug and a 20 amp 120 plug in it. Wire in a short extension cord to plug from this new box into the pedestal. You would have two breakers in the new box, but they would both be powered by the single 30 amp plug on the campground pedestal. Seems like a lot of work and cost to eliminate an extension cord. It work but, why is the question . JMHO

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