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Old 05-07-2017, 10:14 PM   #1
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A/C and Battery Issues

I read somewhere and talked to a big box camping store...

a working condition battery is required in order for my air conditioner to turn on.

I have a '98 and its all original. I'm not wanting to buy a new a/c unit. I do know that my battery is dead though. thought about trying to recover it and see if it works. worst case spend $80 and get a new one and be done with it.

just wondering if anyone has ever had the compressor not kick on and its because they don't have a working battery.

I was told and read (cant find the site now) that the converter charging the battery is more like a trickle charge and even though its 12v its at a low amp which is why the a/c wont kick on. its needing 12v but like 13 amps which the converter isn't supplying to the battery..

would be awesome if that was all I needed to fix my ac. much rather spend $80 on new battery than $800 for a/c..

I recently replaced all the capicitors and the fan kicks on no issues, just no compressor. I was also told it could be thermostat. but cant check the thermostat without a good battery.
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Old 05-08-2017, 05:38 AM   #2
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I think you have kind of answered your own question. If the thermostat isn't on it can't send the signal to the compressor to run

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Old 05-08-2017, 05:42 AM   #3
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You could steal a battery from a car or truck to test that. It wouldnt be an rv/marine battery so i wouldn't leave a cranking battery in the camper. It won't hurt anything in your camper.

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Old 05-08-2017, 08:21 AM   #4
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You could steal a battery from a car or truck to test that. It wouldnt be an rv/marine battery so i wouldn't leave a cranking battery in the camper. It won't hurt anything in your camper.

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I agree. Grab a car battery and pop it on there as a test. Then you're not out any money.

But at the same time, don't you need a new deep cycle battery anyway? I mean, if you're going to get one anyway, just do it.

The thermostat most likely runs on 12V. And it shouldn't need much juice to work. I would imagine even a trickle charge voltage would work for that.

Granted, I'm much more familiar with "modern" trailers... If your converter is only "trickling" your battery, you might consider a new modern 3- or 4-stage converter as well. FWIW, I've always understood old converters to put out too much voltage. They didn't "step" the voltage based on the long-term charging needs of the deep cycle battery, they just put out constant high voltage. That's why boiling water out of batteries used to be such a problem. A new multi-stage converter will take care of your battery automatically, without boiling all the water out, and will provide the 12V necessary to run the trailer while doing it.

Keep us up to date, I'm curious what you find out.
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Old 05-08-2017, 09:42 AM   #5
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Are you taking this camper on the road? If so, do you have electric brakes? If you say yes to both than you must have a battery. But if you absolutely don't want to ever dry camp than a small car battery is ok.

Re the AC issue, if the 112AC is plugged in then the converter should work. Or the AC unit has a 12 or 24 volt converter to power the thermostat. Make sure all fuzes are good, see if 12 volt is being made by converter and you should be good.

If you want to test the battery requirement drive up to the RV and hook up jumper cables to the car from the RV cables. Make sure your polarity ( + to+ and - to - ) are correct. Test the incoming thermostat wires with 112AC and with battery to see if difference.

Could be a loose wire, poor connection, bad thermostat, bad converter. Will take a little digging.
You can get a cheapo tester at Harbor Freight or amazon AstroAI Digital Multimeter with Ohm Volt Amp and Diode Test for under 15 $
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Old 05-08-2017, 11:33 AM   #6
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What kind of trailer/air conditioner is this?

The ceiling mount (controls on the unit, Coleman Mach 3 for ex.) do not need 12v to run at all. The only power connection is 110V. The unit itself may step down the power to the control. If this is the type of ac you have, it is probably in need of repair and a battery isn't going to help.

Central air type A/C that is thermostatically controlled from a wall thermostat will need 12v to operate the thermostat only. It can't call for cool without the 12V. But this is very low amperage, probably in the milliamp range. The high amperage you refer to is 110V for the compressor, and yes, 13 amps or more is needed.

If you have a TT big enough to have a central type A/C, then it is certainly big enough for trailer brakes, and you must have a battery installed for safety. Bite the bullet and replace the battery.
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Old 05-08-2017, 12:45 PM   #7
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What kind of trailer/air conditioner is this?

The ceiling mount (controls on the unit, Coleman Mach 3 for ex.) do not need 12v to run at all. The only power connection is 110V. The unit itself may step down the power to the control. If this is the type of ac you have, it is probably in need of repair and a battery isn't going to help.

Central air type A/C that is thermostatically controlled from a wall thermostat will need 12v to operate the thermostat only. It can't call for cool without the 12V. But this is very low amperage, probably in the milliamp range. The high amperage you refer to is 110V for the compressor, and yes, 13 amps or more is needed.

If you have a TT big enough to have a central type A/C, then it is certainly big enough for trailer brakes, and you must have a battery installed for safety. Bite the bullet and replace the battery.


I will be getting a battery it's an eagle 246 and does have electric brakes and a ducted wall thermostat system. It's only 25' but is 7300 # dry. I will be dropping off the old tires to be replaced later on today and then getting a new battery. I'm not sure how old the current battery is but it hasn't been cared for like it should have for at least the last 3 years. I opened up the battery and several of the plates are severely corroded and all of them are above the water level.



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Old 05-08-2017, 01:01 PM   #8
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I will be getting a battery it's an eagle 246 and does have electric brakes and a ducted wall thermostat system. It's only 25' but is 7300 # dry. I will be dropping off the old tires to be replaced later on today and then getting a new battery. I'm not sure how old the current battery is but it hasn't been cared for like it should have for at least the last 3 years. I opened up the battery and several of the plates are severely corroded and all of them are above the water level.



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Excellent!

Just not sure this is going to solve your AC problem.

Be sure to check your converter to make sure it's putting out the correct voltage to keep your battery charged. If it is, this should be plenty of voltage to run the thermostat (regardless of presence or health of a battery) while the 110V shore power runs the "heavy equipment" (compressor and fan).

I'm thinking you could have another issue somewhere.
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Old 05-08-2017, 01:12 PM   #9
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I think you have kind of answered your own question. If the thermostat isn't on it can't send the signal to the compressor to run

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I'm hoping that's the case if not I hope to move to thermostat. Since it won't be provided with a new unit anyways.


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Old 05-08-2017, 03:18 PM   #10
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Excellent!



Just not sure this is going to solve your AC problem.



Be sure to check your converter to make sure it's putting out the correct voltage to keep your battery charged. If it is, this should be plenty of voltage to run the thermostat (regardless of presence or health of a battery) while the 110V shore power runs the "heavy equipment" (compressor and fan).



I'm thinking you could have another issue somewhere.


Tires installed upgraded to a D load range. Installed new battery. Connected to shore power while installing the tires so the battery could get some fresh juice before taking a draw. Not sure how long it's been on the shelf. Click image for larger version

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Flipped the thermostat to Cool and auto high and temp to 65. It has the delay start so going back out in a few to check it out.


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Old 05-08-2017, 03:31 PM   #11
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Well no such luck, except for new battery installed and new tires..

This is my original thermostat. Was just talking to someone who had the same issues hi/low fan only but no cooling. They swapped out thermostat and problem was solved. Thermos don't come with A new unit anyways and are much cheaper than a new unit.


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Old 05-12-2017, 06:44 PM   #12
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Well.. after replacing capacitors and getting fans back..new battery to actually have one didn't change any air status.. tonight I received and installed a new digital thermostat and I have air again! The original one from 98 has officially retired! 1st non original piece I have installed and upgraded to this unit. Other than tires. Tomorrow I'm going to swap out the toilet when it arrives, having issues opening the blade and it's original so simple upgrade. For its age I am blessed no issues with all original equipment besides what I just listed. Knock on wood no leaks either!!


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