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Old 07-18-2012, 05:47 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by dmax_83 View Post
Your setup should easily power your a/c unit as I use my honda 3k genset to run my 13.5k btu unit. I recently upgraded my starting capacitor to a Supco compressor hard start kit to ease the starting process, you might consider looking under your shroud to see if you camper came with one installed at the factory. Sometimes a/c units don't have them and if you don't I would definitely add one.

What is involved in installing the kit?

No I am NOT retired. I work full time.:D

Tracy from Central PA

2010 Jayco 17Z Ex-Port
2004 Ford Explorer V8 with the tow package
2010 Camping Stats
Nights Camping 132 - Nights Camping in My Z 102
2011 Camping Stats
Nights Camping 107
2012 Camping Stats
Nights camping 133 - Nights camping in my Z 128
2013 Camping Stats
Nights Camping 66 Nights
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Old 07-19-2012, 08:25 PM   #12
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It is extremely easy, heres how I did it. My a/c unit had a small start capacitor installed from the factory so I plugged in the camper and discharged the three existing capacitors (start, run, and fan). Once discharged I unplugged the camper and removed the two leads from the starting capacitor to the run capacitor and then plugged in the two leads from the larger replacement start capacitor. I made sure that all of them were secure and then closed up the access panel and put the shroud back on. Note: some a/c units do not have start capacitors and the run capacitor handles both starting and running, if this is the case in yours you can still add a start capacitor to help your generator and also prolong your compressors life.

1998 Jayco Eagle 302FK (Honda EU3000is)
2016 GMC Sierra Denali 3500HD 4x4 Duramax/Allison
2003 Honda Aquatrax F-12X Turbo
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Old 07-25-2012, 12:11 PM   #13
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Hi, Sorry for the delay in the update. I returned the gennies to the dealer, tested no problem. Tried to start up A/C with no luck. Kicked the gennies off. The mfrg. never returned my e-mail for the A/C startup output. According to the Jayco Manual should be 15.75 -16.25AMPS. My parallel setup provides 33.4, should be plenty.

Next step is to go the dealer to check the output or have an upgraded startup capacitor installed.

Will keep you informed.

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Old 07-31-2012, 11:04 AM   #14
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Hi, update on A/C Start Up. The dealer informed my that the newer Coleman units have smaller start up capacitors. The Jayco manual says the 13,500 unit requires momentary start up of 15.75-16.25 Amps. The dealer says the new capacitor requires 2 1/2 times that, or around 38 amps to start up. Obviously this requires new capacitors as it exceeds the 33.4 provided on the parallel generators. I am installing new capacitors. The dealer explanation is that coleman is installing smaller capacitors to save money as they produce 20,000 units a year.

I have had a lot misinformation in the last two weeks, hopefully the new capacitors will do the job.

On last question from an electrical dufus, why does the unit start up on the shorepower 30 amp service? More amps than 30?

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Old 07-31-2012, 01:07 PM   #15
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Your Honda's outlet is limited at 26.6a, if your A/C needs 28 it will trip the gens but start on the 30A shore power. Sounds like the dealer wasnt exaclty sure on the reguired amps saying they need 2 1/2 times more than 15.75-16.25. I would like to see the amp usage measured when connected to shore power. Too bad you dont have a power monitor or amp meter to read this. I bet it is needing over 26.6 but less than 30A...
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Old 07-31-2012, 02:08 PM   #16
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This definitely needs further investigation. I would contact a qualified electrician WITH the appropriate instruments to completely evaluate the current draw at AC start up. I agree, something is not right here. Something ain't right with the dealer explanation either. I ain't buying that.

I use the parallel Honda's on my rig. AC cycles just fine even when the generators are in the ECO mode. They jump (figuratively) when the AC comes on but handle the load just fine.
Chuck - Sparta, TN
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EDUCATION is what you get when you read the fine print.....
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Old 07-31-2012, 06:45 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by tnchuck100 View Post
I use the parallel Honda's on my rig. AC cycles just fine even when the generators are in the ECO mode. They jump (figuratively) when the AC comes on but handle the load just fine.

Exactly the same here. I used mine non stop for 4 days in 100 degree heat last month with no issues whatsoever.
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Old 01-12-2013, 02:56 PM   #18
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I would suggest that the 1st thing you should know when attempting this type of operation is to know what else have you got turned on to run on AC. Is the fridge and water heater on propane when you are trying to run off the genset? Don't think for a moment that you are going to run the AC and microwave at the same time on the genset. Any resistive loads( gas absorbtion refrigerators) is a constant load vs. motor load. When in doubt look at information on the appliance to determine wattage or amperage needed. Add them up DO THE MATH. Is your rated output sufficint for the loads?

By far the best money you will spend is for a plug in voltmeter (about $15) which you will plug in to a prominent AC outlet, never remove it, and look at it every single time you camp frequently so you know how much power( voltage) is available to you. Especially in the summer, when every other camper is using AC, if you cant maintain close to 110 vac, ideally 120vac be very very very careful or you will burn out your AC unit $$$$$$$$!!!!!!

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