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Old 01-04-2023, 08:08 AM   #1
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Add outlet, new breaker?

I have a 2022 Jayco SLX8 26RLS. The microwave is on a dedicated 20 amp breaker. The microwave is only rated at 900W. I want to add another outlet on that breaker to run a small space heater. Can I just add a hot wire onto the back of that 20 amp breaker or do I need to piggyback off of the outlet the microwave is plugged into?

The plug for the microwave is in the cabinet above the sink and it would be kind of hard to route a wire from that outlet in the upper cabinet, down to the side of the counter top. If it’s possible to tap in on the backside of the breaker, it would be quite simple to run the wires over to a new outlet.

So my question is, can I go buy some Romex and just add a hot wire in on the backside of the 20 amp breaker (where only the microwave outlet is wired) or does it have to be piggybacked off of the microwave outlet?
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Old 01-04-2023, 09:10 AM   #2
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Are there any vacant slots in your panel? Mine had a couple and I just added standard breaker to power my water heater add on heating element. Better than potentially over heating or blowing the breaker.
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Old 01-04-2023, 12:15 PM   #3
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Keep this in mind, if your new outlet is in the kitchen area it should be a GFI. You can solve this by just installing a dedicated GFI outlet instead of a standard outlet.

I added a new line in my rig for an electric water heater. Used a new breaker and used wiring that was enclosed in flexible plastic conduit because I partially routed it under my rig.
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Old 01-04-2023, 12:43 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THyatt123 View Post
I have a 2022 Jayco SLX8 26RLS. The microwave is on a dedicated 20 amp breaker. The microwave is only rated at 900W. I want to add another outlet on that breaker to run a small space heater. Can I just add a hot wire onto the back of that 20 amp breaker or do I need to piggyback off of the outlet the microwave is plugged into?

The plug for the microwave is in the cabinet above the sink and it would be kind of hard to route a wire from that outlet in the upper cabinet, down to the side of the counter top. If it’s possible to tap in on the backside of the breaker, it would be quite simple to run the wires over to a new outlet.

So my question is, can I go buy some Romex and just add a hot wire in on the backside of the 20 amp breaker (where only the microwave outlet is wired) or does it have to be piggybacked off of the microwave outlet?
To answer your question yes it is possible to add on to your existing 20 amp breaker. Those heaters often pull between 1200 and 1500 watts so I wouldn't plan on being able to run both the space heater and microwave at the same time. Also make sure you have enough room on the breaker to add another wire and still be able to get the screws tight so neither of the wires are in any way loose. A loose wire is the fastest way to burn your rig to the ground.

Having said that I would try to add another breaker if you have room in your panel. I know you want to use the new receptacle for a heater but there's a good chance at some point someone is going to plug something in that receptacle that could overload the circuit. I wouldn't rely on the breaker tripping every time for an overloaded circuit.
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Old 01-04-2023, 01:17 PM   #5
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If you don't have a spare breaker you can do what I did. I replaced one of my breakers with a dual unit which allowed me to run a dedicated 20 amp line to my new water heater.

Last recommendation - use the correct gauge wire for your feed. 20 amp requires a heavier gauge than 15 amp service.
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Old 01-04-2023, 01:57 PM   #6
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900 watts is probably the output, not the 120 volt current required.
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Old 01-04-2023, 02:35 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by JimD View Post
If you don't have a spare breaker you can do what I did. I replaced one of my breakers with a dual unit which allowed me to run a dedicated 20 amp line to my new water heater.

Last recommendation - use the correct gauge wire for your feed. 20 amp requires a heavier gauge than 15 amp service.
As a licensed electrician, this is the best response to the question. Use #12 romex or as someone suggested add a new breaker if there is room. Adding a wire to a breaker that has a wire landed on it is a code violation. A GFCI is only needed if the outlet is to be within 6' of a sink.
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Old 01-04-2023, 02:38 PM   #8
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900 watts is probably the output, not the 120 volt current required.
The 900 watts the OP is referring to what is stated on the UL tag/label is in fact the current the microwave will draw at 120v. (it must be noted that some UL labels will use 115v as the voltage of the unit).
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Old 01-04-2023, 02:59 PM   #9
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I think it’s full already.. I attached a photo.
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Old 01-04-2023, 03:17 PM   #10
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There are some breakers that do allow double lugging however not the breakers you have in your image. To do what you want to do safely and up to code, you need to use a pigtail where you use a wire nut to combine the two ~12awg wires together along with a single wire back to the breaker. In other words, one 12awg wire connected to the breaker feeding the two wires (circuits) which means you have three wires connected under the wire nut. As others have stated, you likely will trip the breaker if you use the heater and the microwave at the same time, especially if the heater is on high. ~CA
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Old 01-04-2023, 04:53 PM   #11
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I think it’s full already.. I attached a photo.
Yes, it's full. Here's a link to the spec's. The 30amp is your main and the rest are the 5 branch circuit breakers.


https://wfcoelectronics.com/product/...-power-center/
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Old 01-04-2023, 05:49 PM   #12
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The 900 watts the OP is referring to what is stated on the UL tag/label is in fact the current the microwave will draw at 120v. (it must be noted that some UL labels will use 115v as the voltage of the unit).
Not to nitpik but that is misstated. Watts isn't current. But you know that.
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Old 01-04-2023, 05:52 PM   #13
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There are some breakers that do allow double lugging however not the breakers you have in your image. To do what you want to do safely and up to code, you need to use a pigtail where you use a wire nut to combine the two ~12awg wires together along with a single wire back to the breaker. In other words, one 12awg wire connected to the breaker feeding the two wires (circuits) which means you have three wires connected under the wire nut. As others have stated, you likely will trip the breaker if you use the heater and the microwave at the same time, especially if the heater is on high. ~CA
This seems easy enough. The outlet I want to add will be specifically for a small space heater. Nothing else will ever be plugged into it. We’re already used to unplugging the microwave to use the space heater at night so I’m not too concerned with forgetting and running them at the same time.

So I would create the pigtail at the breaker and then just connect the new neutral and ground to the busses?
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Old 01-04-2023, 08:49 PM   #14
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This seems easy enough. The outlet I want to add will be specifically for a small space heater. Nothing else will ever be plugged into it. We’re already used to unplugging the microwave to use the space heater at night so I’m not too concerned with forgetting and running them at the same time.

So I would create the pigtail at the breaker and then just connect the new neutral and ground to the busses?
Correct.

Just a thought to add, you need to have the neutral and ground for your new romex in its own separate bus hole (separate busses) and not have two neutrals under one screw (similar concept as to the breaker itself). If you are out of neutral bus holes, then you should pigtail the neutral as well like you did the hot wires at the breaker. I would have to double check the nec codes if you wanted to be code compliant, but I seem to remember two ground wires under one screw hole is in code... but you could pigtail the ground as well...

In any case, the neutral wire having its own bus screw hole is just as important as having only one conductor on the breaker. The ground is not as concerning where you could put two wires under the same screw or pigtail it.

I am sharing these additional thoughts as your breaker panel neutral and ground busses may not have additional holes to do anything else. ~CA
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Old 01-05-2023, 05:44 AM   #15
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Keep in mind that your power distribution is probably coming through a power control system. That sheds loads to keep your total consumption to 50, 30, 20 or 15 amps depending on how you set it. Each circuit has a priority level so a low priority item like a water heater or heat/AC will be shut off when a high priority item like the microwave needs power. By adding a low priority load to the high priority circuit you are defeating the purpose of this system.
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Old 01-05-2023, 10:44 AM   #16
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Since most power poles at CG's have a 30A-50A plugin along with two 15A plugins why not just run an electrical cord from the power post inside the TT and use that for you heater? No more unplugging the micro all the time.
I did that exact same thing on a previous 5er I had.
A 14-2 cord would be fine. I stuffed mine in through the slideout on the bottom corner. Zero issues.
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Old 01-05-2023, 12:20 PM   #17
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Maybe the new circuit could be tied into the air conditioner breaker. You never use a heater and the air condition at the same time. At least I don't. LOL
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Old 01-05-2023, 03:08 PM   #18
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Maybe the new circuit could be tied into the air conditioner breaker. You never use a heater and the air condition at the same time. At least I don't. LOL
There are times my wife and I would like to use them at the same time. Lol
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Old 01-11-2023, 02:48 PM   #19
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The 900 watts the OP is referring to what is stated on the UL tag/label is in fact the current the microwave will draw at 120v. (it must be noted that some UL labels will use 115v as the voltage of the unit).
Draw is typically the current, feed is voltage. Runs are so short in our trailers that calculating voltage drop is not usually necessary so star with correct cable.
120v is the RMS of the sine wave for A/C. 115v is just at the 3% drop so virtually no change. The watts is the power. 900 watts fed by 120v has a resistance of 17ohms, drawing 5amps.
Using Ohms Law for Amperage, Power (Watts) divided by Voltage equals Amps.
He has plenty of capacity to use the heater and the microwave, should the heater not draw more amperage than the rating of the breaker whilst considering the maximum draw of the microwave. All 120v-20amp breakers should use 12awg minimum cabling.
I recommend hiring a professional. We can be cheap if you know what you want and follow our advice to get you what you want.
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Old 01-11-2023, 03:03 PM   #20
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Draw is typically the current, feed is voltage. Runs are so short in our trailers that calculating voltage drop is not usually necessary so star with correct cable.
120v is the RMS of the sine wave for A/C. 115v is just at the 3% drop so virtually no change. The watts is the power. 900 watts fed by 120v has a resistance of 17ohms, drawing 5amps.
Using Ohms Law for Amperage, Power (Watts) divided by Voltage equals Amps.
He has plenty of capacity to use the heater and the microwave, should the heater not draw more amperage than the rating of the breaker whilst considering the maximum draw of the microwave. All 120v-20amp breakers should use 12awg minimum cabling.
I recommend hiring a professional. We can be cheap if you know what you want and follow our advice to get you what you want.
I think you miscalculated the current draw for 900 watts. Using the formula I=P/E for 120 volt calculation it would be 900/120=7.5 amps. If you use 115 volts it would be 900/115=7.82 amps.
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