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Old 08-01-2019, 07:22 PM   #1
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Advice needed running wires for cutoff switch

Hello all:

I've picked up a battery cutoff switch for use in my 224bh.

I'd like to locate it inside the passenger's side front pass through compartment. That way it will stay out of the elements, and also be locked away.

I'm trying to figure the best way to run a loop from the front junction box (located on the center of the front cross beam of the trailer) into the aforementioned pass through compartment. However, I don't want to potentially damage an existing wire run, propane line, etc. I also would rather not tear into the undercarriage plastic insulation panels, if I can help it.

One option that I see is the under area on the front right side, between the side wall and the right main frame rail. That area (about a foot wide) is not covered with the insulation panels, but rather just black plastic film, with what appears to be some thin insulation batting behind that.

If anyone has done this before, your advice as to how to best run the wiring would be appreciated. I tear into things often, so I'm not intimidated by the prospect, but it would be nice to see what those who have paved the way already have tried.

Thank you, and Best wishes,
Frank
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Old 08-01-2019, 07:29 PM   #2
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There are some switches designed for exposed locations, have you looked at them.

The reason I say this 12 volts, even with heavy wire, suffers much more line loss than 120AC. So if you are looking at several feet round trip it may not be a good idea.

I am sure others have put an outside switch inline successfully and will give brands and location suggestions.
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Old 08-01-2019, 07:40 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RogerR View Post
There are some switches designed for exposed locations, have you looked at them.

The reason I say this 12 volts, even with heavy wire, suffers much more line loss than 120AC. So if you are looking at several feet round trip it may not be a good idea.

I am sure others have put an outside switch inline successfully and will give brands and location suggestions.
Thank you, Roger. Yes, I have thought about actually putting an extension frame on top of the existing junction box, and then mounting it to that.

My hesitation is that I'd prefer to keep it inaccessible, but also without yet adding another key to my collection! Yes, I probably could rig up a locking cover. But I've got so many keys already for the trailer: hitch coupler lock, coupler latch, hitch pin lock, trailer locks, outside shower lock, generator cable lock, etc., that I'm reticent to add yet another key or combination! Hence wanting to put it in a compartment which I would be opening anytime I wanted to access trailer supplies.

I appreciate that 12 volt DC can suffer line drops (but not as bad as 5 volt DC). Yet the trailer aux power which runs in my SUV from the front battery to the trailer 7 pin harness jack does not suffer appreciable line drop, and that is a pretty long run on my Yukon XL. So I don't worry too much about that extra several feet of cable. But maybe I should?

Best wishes,
Frank
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Old 08-02-2019, 04:23 PM   #4
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I just added one to my new toy hauler. very simple. I ordered a battery disconnect marine master switch from amazon for under 16.00. I mounted mine to the inside of the A frame between battery box and front of trailer with 2 screws mounting it to the frame. then I removed the main coach negative terminal from the battery and installed it on one side of the disconnect switch and order a new 24 inch negative battery cable with ends and mounted one end to the battery and the other end to the other side of disconnect switch. works great. some people use the positive cable but I like the negative side in case it ever comes of it wont spark.
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Old 08-02-2019, 04:32 PM   #5
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if needed you could still mount on front a frame to make installation cheap and easy but use a hinged box to mount switch into then lock with combo lock so no keys are needed
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Old 08-02-2019, 05:08 PM   #6
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I had a battery cutoff switch mounted on the outside of the frame for 5 years with no one ever playing with it. Last year, while doing some SOLAR rewiring I decided to move it into the front pass through. The thing to understand is that I ran 0/1 AWG cables from the batteries to the inside pass through. I needed this for the 1500watt inverter (bigger is better).

From the 4x4 electrical box mounted on the cross frame that holds all the TT wires from the battery.. and TV, I moved the ground wire directly up through the floor to my SOLAR control center. That is where I now have the disconnect switch. Max cable length from the batteries is 5 feet, minimal voltage drop with these cables.

I drilled a 1.5" hole in the floor of the pass through and used a 1/4" stiff wire and poked it down through the insulation and plastic under lay, then made a bigger hole in the under lay and pulled the wires up into the pass through. Took about an hour to get the cables through the holes and then I foamed the bottom hole to keep the critters out.

I also ran a 3 wire 12AWG cable from the inverter in the front to the shore power entry point in the rear and wired it so that I could switch power source between shore power and the inverter. I would switch to an Automatic Transfer switch if I were to rewire it, as they cost less than $100.

I know that most battery disconnect switches are red in color, just paint it black and mount it on the inside of the frame. You would have to really look hard to see it.

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Attached Thumbnails
BATTERY - Current Picture of Batteries - 02-27-16.png   BATTERY - Disconnect Switch Picture.jpg   SOLAR-BATTERY Center - Maintenance Position.jpg   SOLAR - ShorePower or Inverter.jpg  
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Old 08-03-2019, 12:53 PM   #7
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Tileguy, thanks for the combination lock idea. I use luggage combo locks (TSA approved) for my toolbox. The particular ones that I use allow me to set my own combination. They would work well for that application.

There is also a cutoff switch sold by Amazon. Blue Sea Systems brand. They make one model that has a removable "key" knob. I was going to go that route, but the Blue Seas switches don't get the best reviews. It seems that the internal mechanism has fragile plastic parts, which can break easily.

Mustang, I probably wouldn't need super heavy gauge cable, as I don't have an inverter, and the stock wiring on the positive terminal is only 10 gauge (8 gauge on the negative terminal). Thank you for describing what you did, and for the pictures of your setup.

I will either go with an external, lockable box with a combo lock, or will go with the pass through compartment. If I go the external route, I'll tie into the coach master DC fuse harness (which on my 224bh is a 30 amp), which has the master coach fuse holder wired into the incoming positive 12 volt from the battery. I would just wire it inline with the fuse. That certainly would be the easiest solution. And it would be the same result as what I am doing now, with just pulling the fuse when I store the TT.

My reason for wanting to lock it is because it is stored outdoors at a paid storage lot. Security and ownership is pretty good there. But one time when I had our first TT stored there, someone flipped open the front window rock cover (154bh TT), and lifted it so far that it came out of the support bracket tracks, and then wouldn't close properly. I guess that they were just curious.

But that has made me more careful. I want the switch protected because if someone does decide to turn it to "see what that does" and leaves it on, it could drain and damage the coach battery.

Also, I have watched some Arctic Fox product videos, and all their TTs have a cutoff switch mounted in a locked storage or equipment compartment; that is where I got the storage compartment idea from.

Best wishes,
Frank
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