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Old 10-16-2022, 09:23 AM   #21
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No one ever had their pants fall down when they wear a belt and suspenders.
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Old 10-16-2022, 09:54 AM   #22
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So what do you guys pour in the toilet to keep the rubber seal good do you put anti-freeze or just don't pour nothing?
I've always just poured an inch or so the rv af that I used in the traps.
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Old 10-16-2022, 09:59 AM   #23
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Thetford RV Toilet Seal Lube and Conditioner - Toilet Seal Lubricant - 24 oz 36663
Visit the Thetford Store

Find it at Amazon
Same here. I even add a bit of AF too. That’s the suspenders
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Old 10-16-2022, 10:05 AM   #24
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So what do you guys pour in the toilet to keep the rubber seal good do you put anti-freeze or just don't pour nothing?
Run Plumbers grease around the seal ( with my trusty rubber glove on) and about 1/4 to 1/2” of antifreeze just to make the seal is good for the next season
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Old 10-16-2022, 04:56 PM   #25
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Run Plumbers grease around the seal ( with my trusty rubber glove on) and about 1/4 to 1/2” of antifreeze just to make the seal is good for the next season
X2

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Old 10-16-2022, 05:14 PM   #26
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No one ever had their pants fall down when they wear a belt and suspenders.
love that.. We always start for Florida in January and the temps here are minus 30 at night.. After spending a couple of days digging the TT out we drag it down the highway at zero but the windchill is more like minus 30. No heat in that puppy.
Antifreeze is cheap and has worked for us for seven years.
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Old 10-16-2022, 06:58 PM   #27
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Pretty much ditto what JFlightRisk does.
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Old 10-21-2022, 07:46 PM   #28
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Grumpy, I don't remember how to start a new thread....? I can not get the antifreeze to pump out of the jug. I am sure that I have followed the instructions in my owners manual, setting the valves in the proper position, etc... I had the same problem last year but can not remember what I did. Thanks!
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Old 10-21-2022, 07:56 PM   #29
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Antifreeze is cheap and has worked for us for seven years.
If you already have the air compressor and cost is a factor, air is cheaper. And it works. I have talked to dealers that only use air. But everyone needs to do what they are comfortable with. I've done both, but I generally just use air.
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Old 10-22-2022, 12:02 PM   #30
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no worries.

Live in Washington state and used blow out method for year's. Never mess with rv antifreeze except pour a little down each drain to make sure p traps don't free. Drain hot water heater first before blowing out system. The toilet will take awhile to blow out line, just step on peddle for awhile while compressor is running. Set your compressor to about 40 psi to insure you don't ruin water lines from being over pressurized. If you have an outdoor shower novel, don't forget to blow it out also.



It's all good..
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Originally Posted by Greenic View Post
Hi all.

Normally, I've just done the 'ol bypass HWT and charge the lines with antifreeze but this year, I picked up a air blow out plug as my friends swear by them.

I live in Vancouver BC. It's not a cold place, even in winter. Any opinions on whether I should still do the antifreeze after the blow out?

Someone said there are seals etc that may dry out and therefore needs the antifreeze, but I'm not too sure about that. ANd since it's never really cold here, am I just making work for myself?

Is the blow out sufficient for winterizing a trailer in a damp but not very cold climate?

I appreciate any replies!
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Old 10-22-2022, 12:04 PM   #31
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I blew out the lines on our previous trailer, a 145RB Baja, for 5 the last five years and never had a problem with it. However, all of the water lines in the 145RB are inside and above the floor level except the drain lines. Also, I kept a heater in the trailer most of the time to prevent the temperature from getting below freezing inside but I am sure it occasionally did.



I used an air adapter with a pressure regulator and alternated opening closing the taps and toilet until no more spurts of water came out. I also drained the HW tank each time. This process is very easy and only takes ten minutes. We use our trailer throughout the winter so I don't want to run antifreeze through the lines over and over when we use, then stow the trailer. We are out about once a month, year round.



I also live in the Vancouver area.
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Old 10-22-2022, 12:41 PM   #32
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We also live in Vancouver BC and we use antifreeze every year after the blow out. Using antifreeze is cheap insurance.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Greenic View Post
Hi all.

Normally, I've just done the 'ol bypass HWT and charge the lines with antifreeze but this year, I picked up a air blow out plug as my friends swear by them.

I live in Vancouver BC. It's not a cold place, even in winter. Any opinions on whether I should still do the antifreeze after the blow out?

Someone said there are seals etc that may dry out and therefore needs the antifreeze, but I'm not too sure about that. ANd since it's never really cold here, am I just making work for myself?

Is the blow out sufficient for winterizing a trailer in a damp but not very cold climate?

I appreciate any replies!
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Old 10-22-2022, 01:26 PM   #33
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Hey GaBob. You are 100% correct with your assumption. After the lines are completely blown out and the drains and taps are left open, there is no way a little frozen water could expand enough to do anything. As it expands it will expand in front of and behind the trapped moisture. Physics teach us that it will not expand against the walls of the line. To prove my point, take a small clear 6” plastic tube and seal the bottom but leave the top open. Now fill it half full of water and place it in the freezer. The ice will harmlessly expand upward until it’s frozen solid. The only way it would break the tube is if there weren’t enough air space in the tube, and if it was capped off.
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Old 10-22-2022, 01:37 PM   #34
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Hey GaBob. You are 100% correct with your assumption. After the lines are completely blown out and the drains and taps are left open, there is no way a little frozen water could expand enough to do anything. As it expands it will expand in front of and behind the trapped moisture. Physics teach us that it will not expand against the walls of the line. To prove my point, take a small clear 6” plastic tube and seal the bottom but leave the top open. Now fill it half full of water and place it in the freezer. The ice will harmlessly expand upward until it’s frozen solid. The only way it would break the tube is if there weren’t enough air space in the tube, and if it was capped off.
Most of the time, but not always.

Didja notice that a pond or lake that freezes starts at the surface?

Military (tough) canteen 2/3 full of water put in freezer with cap off. Ruptured at seam.

Once in 30+ years of drain and blow, toilet valve froze and broke. I guess a little water was left behind. Got the floor wet, of course.

Now I blow and antifreeze. Although toilet valves are not expensive they are still a hassle to change when you get old enough to not be so 'bendy'.

So, do what you are comfortable with. I'm done.
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Old 10-22-2022, 02:03 PM   #35
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Most of the time, but not always.

Didja notice that a pond or lake that freezes starts at the surface?

Military (tough) canteen 2/3 full of water put in freezer with cap off. Ruptured at seam.

Once in 30+ years of drain and blow, toilet valve froze and broke. I guess a little water was left behind. Got the floor wet, of course.

Now I blow and antifreeze. Although toilet valves are not expensive they are still a hassle to change when you get old enough to not be so 'bendy'.

So, do what you are comfortable with. I'm done.
I agree. There are a lot of folks on this site that have never experienced minus 20 deg F for night after night. Matter of fact, few have. Up here we can go months below freezing. I blow out the lines and suck in RV antifreeze after. Just bought 2 gallons for 12 bucks. Cheap and easy, no worries.
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Old 10-22-2022, 02:37 PM   #36
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This subject comes up every year. There are many who winterize by just blowing out the water with air, and they say they've never had a problem. Good for them. Seriously, I wish them good luck!

But I know that if I did that, with my luck, there would be a fitting at a low point in a line somewhere, in a place I can't get to, and water will collect in it. It will freeze and break.

And my camper would then be sitting at a repair facility for half the following year waiting for someone to do a half-assed job fixing it, meanwhile causing damage to something else....

Sooo, I blow out my lines with air and I also fill the lines with antifreeze. It's not expensive and it's not hard to do...... Carry on....
.
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Old 10-22-2022, 04:18 PM   #37
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So what do you guys pour in the toilet to keep the rubber seal good do you put anti-freeze or just don't pour nothing?
I just use mineral oil.
I used to run AF through the lines. The last 2 years I bypass the HWT, drain the low point lines, then blow the lines out. Haven't had a problem with it in Idaho.
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Old 10-22-2022, 04:54 PM   #38
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I too float a couple drops of mineral oil down each drain and in the toilet. It keeps the antifreeze from evaporating.
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Old 10-22-2022, 07:17 PM   #39
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Put me in the camp of just blowing out the lines with some antifreeze in the p-traps. Seems to work well here in PA and we do get some extended time well below freezing.

With that said, the extra insurance of some antifreeze is cheap if it will make you more comfortable.
I am in that camp too, the process hasn't failed us yet.
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Old 10-22-2022, 07:28 PM   #40
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Grumpy, I don't remember how to start a new thread....? I can not get the antifreeze to pump out of the jug. I am sure that I have followed the instructions in my owners manual, setting the valves in the proper position, etc... I had the same problem last year but can not remember what I did. Thanks!
If you suction line is empty you may need to 'prime' it with some AF to get rid of the air (I use a small funnel).

If you loosened your pump screen glass to empty or clean it might be loose.
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