Another possibility is to move your frame brackets ahead a 1/4" - 1/2" towards the coupler which should provide you with enough slack to pull the pin on the triangle plate. I've always used the amount of compression on the red bushing as my metric when applying tension rather than counting threads. Once I had the tension where I wanted it I measured how much compression was needed.
This way on the occasion that I'm not able to get the triangle plate perfectly lined up I can still ensure that I have the proper tension in place even though the chains aren't quite even between the two sides. This worked great with my early model Andersen and it looks like it will work fine for my new Andersen and the much bigger/heavier trailer although I'm not yet finished with the adjustments on the new trailer. Still need to get it fully loaded and run it over the CAT scale.
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TT: 2019 ORV Timber Ridge 23DBS, Blue Ox SwayPro 15K/1500
TV: 2019 Ford F-250 XLT SuperCab LB, 6.2L, 4.30/e-locker, 4x4, 164" WB, RoadActive Suspension, 3216 payload
TV: 2014 RAM 1500 Big Horn CC (Traded in)
TT: 2015 Jay Flight SLX 195RB Baja Edition, Andersen No-Sway (Traded in)
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