Anode rod

[bob2]

Hi the manual mentions changing out an anode rod but my setup doesn't look like it has one I think the previous owner did something custom , added length to not drain all over camper. does this look right?

should I replace it with an anode

also any tips on DW winterizing this is a Jay flight slx8 242 BHS

[crl]

I had the same question on our 2019 White Hawk. Just had the previous habit of changing anoid once a year or so. Oils not find it on this trailer. Asked my RV dealer who we trust and was told this particular hw heater did not have an anoid. Just a pvc drain plug. Could this be the same with yours?

[Grumpy]

Depends on which brand water heater. Aluminum tanks don't usually have anode rods they are for steel tanks.

If you have a Suburban water heater, the tank is porcelain-lined steel and requires an anode rod to prevent corrosion of the steel tank. If you have an Atwood water heater, your water heater tank is aluminum and does not require one.J

[Thomson]

I would get rid of that stuff that keeps you from draining completely and install an anode, and get rid of the rubber band. Atwood has an aluminum tank. Suburban has steel tank. With steel you can use either zinc or magnesium anodes. With aluminum you can only use magnesium. Safest bet is magnesium for both.

If you look up galvanic series and the emf table from the net or your old chemistry book you will find a list of metals and the emf potentials. The table indicates the metal potential versus each other. So steel has a lower potential than zinc or magnesium which means that the anode will corrode preferentially to protect the steel. However, aluminum is between zinc and magnesium meaning the tank will corrode before the zinc anode.

So now you know why Atwood doesn't recommend an anode, because most people think an anode is an anode and they don't want their tanks to corrode to save the anode.

[Cavie]

Originally Posted by bob2

Hi the manual mentions changing out an anode rod but my setup doesn't look like it has one I think the previous owner did something custom , added length to not drain all over camper. does this look right?

should I replace it with an anode

also any tips on DW winterizing this is a Jay flight slx8 242 BHS

That is an Atwood heater. No anode required. The PO made a water diversion and place the original tank plug in the end of the drain. Nice mod.

[bob2]

Great thanks guys. I did the rubber band thing, the thing gets in the way when you try to close the cover.

[Thomson]

The manual says... Aluminum corrodes with either acid or base and releases hydrogen. I guess if you don't plan to keep your RV more than a couple of years or replace the water heater then forgo the anode.

[Lake Huron]

Mine is an Atwood that looks just like that except its bigger. These heaters don't have the anode. I had enough clearance to install a close nipple and that same small valve and still get the door closed without any issues. I don't use the plastic plug on the valve. I have a long plastic nipple I keep stored inside there and when I need to drain it I thread it in hand tight and let er rip. Yours must be the smaller 6 gal tank because I can see there is almost no clearance to do the mod the way i did mine. Either way, it's a nice mod to have done.

[edatlanta]

This thread reminded me to check my anode rod. It was replaced 18 months ago and after I pulled it out it wasn't horrible, but I had a spare so in it went. And I even ordered a replacement for my spare parts box for the next time.

Thanks guys.