Any Husky Centerline TS owners?

tylersdad · 07-29-2015, 08:26 PM

I'm looking for opinions on the Husky Centerline TS. My dealer was supposed to install an Equal-I-zer, but wound up installing a Husky hitch with the round bars with chains. I'm going in there tomorrow to have it out with them and want to know if the Centerline TS is worth fighting for.

The sales manager's story is that they thought I meant generic WDH when I used the word, equalizer. Apparently they use the terms equalizer hitch and weight distribution hitch interchangeably. They claim they don't sell it so they wouldn't have agreed to installing one. Their problem is, they are the ones who gave me the Equal-I-zer brochure!

BigJohnD · 07-29-2015, 08:36 PM

We have one. It works. Not my favorite though. We've had the true Equalizer brand hitch, a few chain set ups, and the Husky. They all work fine. Would I buy another Husky Centerline TS? Probably not. Nothing wrong with it, I just don't care for this style of hitch. Biggest problem I've had with this one and the Equalizer, is L-brackets on the frame shifting on occasion. This has been fixed by some with bolt through mods, and some with a few stitch welds. I've fixed mine another way. Next time I'll probably just go with a Reese dual cam or something.

need-a-vacation · 07-29-2015, 08:38 PM

If they gave you the brochure for the Equal-I-Zer, does it have their sticker or stamp on it? I would try talking to the sales manager, or even general manager about the issue.

The one thing I read about the Centerline system is the need to be in almost a straight line to hook up and unhook. Not a huge deal, but to me it was enough of an inconvenience that I negotiated for the Reese DC system. Otherwise the review seems to be positive besides that, excpet the hitch was HEAVY! Lol Other than the Anderson what hitch system doesn't have some weight to it???

Good luck!!!!

BigJohnD · 07-29-2015, 08:52 PM

The Centerline TS doesn't have to be in a straight line, just like the Equalizer doesn't. The other Centerline with the pistons, I think does have to be reasonably straight.

need-a-vacation · 07-29-2015, 09:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigJohnD

The Centerline TS doesn't have to be in a straight line, just like the Equalizer doesn't. The other Centerline with the pistons, I think does have to be reasonably straight.

Didn't realize there was 2 different Centerline systems! Thank you for the info!

clubhouse · 07-29-2015, 10:13 PM

I have the original Centerline system, it works great and have no complaints other than its heavy. But I'll confirm that you do need to be very straight to engage/disengage the trunnion bars.

tylersdad · 07-30-2015, 12:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by need-a-vacation

If they gave you the brochure for the Equal-I-Zer, does it have their sticker or stamp on it? I would try talking to the sales manager, or even general manager about the issue.

I don't have the brochure anymore, but I have their catalog which has several pages for Equal-i-zer, but not one single mention of Husky products.

I went and took some measurements. The ball is actually installed an inch too high. I think that's probably enough to alter the handling. It's certainly enough to prevent me from being able to get another link, which I really need. The Husky hitch is only getting me 1/2 inch of sag correction on the rear.

Interestingly enough, I just got a call from them telling me that they need me to sign new finance paperwork because they submitted my loan to the wrong bank.

need-a-vacation · 07-30-2015, 05:25 PM

Tylersdad,

I would take a copy (keep original locked in car/ at home) of your original paperwork in and go over it line by line to make sure they are not trying to pull a fast one!!!!

It sounds like you may have the ball in your court at the moment with the loan situation!!! Maybe call your salesman back and talk to him/her about making this right with the original hitch you both had agreed upon. No additional money out of your pocket!!!

As for the ball height, it is 1" to high in relation to what, the coupler when level? You generally set the ball about 1" or so higher than the coupler to help compensate for the sag that occurs, along with using the wd bar adjustment to restore weight back to the trucks front axle.

As for only 1/2" sag correction, how much does the rear of the truck drop with the full tw before hooking up the wd bars? Are you using the tongue jack to raise the truck and trailer back up a fair amount to make latching (and unlatching) the wd bars up easier? Don't be afraid to raise the truck/ trailer combo up, unless you have a manual jack!!! Then get Tyler to do it! Lol Seriously, go buy a power tongue jack, it is so much easier!!!

Are you familiar with adjusting the hitch system on your own? And have the right tools to do so? If so, go find as flat of an area as possible, and make some adjustments, little at a time with the truck and trailer loaded like you are ready to go (within reason anyway being as close as possible). Take some paper and write down your mesurements at every wheel well of the truck with each adjument, knowing how many washers you had the hitch head angle set with, the number of chain link UNDER TENSION (easier than the number of links loose). When posting back here, the total number of chain links can vary some, so it is easier if you know how many are under tension.

If they hesitate at this point, it makes me wonder if you could simply tell them they can take the trailer back since they are saying it isn't officially yours if the loan hasn't been signed.

Good luck!!!! And keep us posted!

tylersdad · 07-30-2015, 06:10 PM

The uncoupled height of the rear wheel well is 28". The coupled height without the WD bars is 26.25 inches. The coupled height with the WD bars is 26.75 inches.

The coupler height when the trailer is level is 23.5 inches. The ball height is 26 inches. The instructions say the ball height should be 1 inch higher than the coupler height or 24.5 inches. Making the ball about 1.5 inches too high.

Will this impact towing performance/comfort? We noticed a lot of bounce from the rear end, especially on taking off from a stop.

I'm comfortable making the changes, but I lack the torque wrench capable of 230 ft lbs of torque. Otherwise I'd do it myself. The dealer had committed to adjusting the ball height.

need-a-vacation · 07-30-2015, 06:18 PM

Depending on your loaded tw, 1-1/4" of sag isn't a lot, but it does sound like you are a little tongue high when hooked up. How does the truck and trailer sit when parked on a flat area? It is suggested to set the trailer as level as possible, or slightly nose low (up to 1") which will help prevent sway.

Do you use the tongue jack to raise the truck and trailer when latching the wd bars up?

If you have the tools, drop you hitch head one hole on the shank, leaving the angle the same for now. See how level your trailer is now.

The best thing you can do is to hit a CAT Scale to see where you are at with the wd bars adjustment. You may not be transferring enough weight back to the fa.

tylersdad · 07-30-2015, 06:41 PM

Thanks a lot for the help. I appreciate it.

The dealer is going to drop the ball down for me. I don't have the tools.

I definitely raise the front of the trailer and the TV prior to attaching the chains. Nearly impossible without doing that.

I'm not really having sway problems, but we get haven't had much in the way of wind either. I'm adding the second sway bar as well. Primary concern is all the bouncing and just wanting to make sure that everything is setup correctly and safely.

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