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Old 06-17-2011, 09:04 PM   #31
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Great ideas being exchanged, which of course gets me thinking...
Uhoh! You're thinking. That could be dangerous! :hihi:

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...I tend to agree when using the Reese Dual Cam/WDH (no for/aft chain movement in TV turns), but I believe the screws may incur "some" load (vertical or otherwise, possibly minimal as well) keeping the bracket from pulling itself over the top of the frame with the heavier spring bars (1,200lbs plus), essentially that's what happening without the screws...
Granted, the screws would get some load but most would be sheer instead of tension. One could always try the self tappers and just watch them for signs of loosening. If so, then through bolts could be installed.

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...Wouldn't you actually loose stability of the snap-up bracket saddle over the top of the frame by having the clamp screw contact point further away from its point of attachment (threaded area) on the snap-up bracket considering there is only a 1/4 turn of tightening?...
I don't think so. If the clamp was being installed over a channel frame, the screw would go all the way through anyway. Besides, the clearance hole would help stabilize it.

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...To eliminate the possibility of distortion a 2" wide x 6" tall (height of tube frame) backer plate (tack welded to frame) between the tube frame and clamp screw could be easily incorporated. The backer plate I utilized captured the clamp screw as well.

Just thinking out loud here.

Bob
If using self tappers, the backing plate would become almost redundant, making using the clearance hole so the clamp screw has something solid to bear against more attractive.

Now I've been thinking (be afraid, be very afraid!). If the self tappers prove to not be up to the task, one may be able to drill a hole in the opposite side of the frame to clear a socket that will fit a nut that will fit the bolt on the other side. I don't know if a hole that size would be enough to significantly weaken the frame.
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Old 06-17-2011, 09:17 PM   #32
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Why not tack weld each side of the bracket? Two 1" welds on each side?
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Old 06-17-2011, 09:42 PM   #33
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Why not tack weld each side of the bracket? Two 1" welds on each side?
I know of a couple of cases where that was done, and it's a good option. The only draw back is addressing any potential bracket issues in a remote area (replacement, etc.) if a weld cutter isn't available.

Bob
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Old 06-17-2011, 09:59 PM   #34
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Welding is a bit permanent. If something should happen to the bracket, replacing it would be a touch dicey.

I don't what the bracket is made from but if it is forged steel, welding it could embrittle the metal.
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Old 06-17-2011, 10:11 PM   #35
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You can remove the bracket by grinding the welds with a die grinder or a 4" angel grinder.
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Old 06-17-2011, 10:27 PM   #36
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Jennie,

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snip.......I don't think so. If the clamp was being installed over a channel frame, the screw would go all the way through anyway.......snip
Good point.

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snip......If the self tappers prove to not be up to the task, one may be able to drill a hole in the opposite side of the frame to clear a socket that will fit a nut that will fit the bolt on the other side. I don't know if a hole that size would be enough to significantly weaken the frame.
That would work......., "but", I might even consider removing the welded metal end cap at the leading edge of the A-frame tube and feed a bolt thru from the inside of the tube....has been done!

Ok, I'm done thinking

Bob
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Old 06-18-2011, 09:36 AM   #37
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I'm glad to hear all the ideas, I do worry about having the bracket clamping bolt passing thru the frame to the inner wall, just incase of a future bracket failure. When my brackets fail the clamping bolt gets bent to a vertical position and if that were to happen in the frame, I worry about extensive frame damage. If one was to weld on the bracket, anyone have an opinion about frame weakening where a weld would be applied?

I'm also considering fabricating a spacer between the backside frame wall and the bracket near the clamp bolt area, if I can take up the void between the frame and the back of the bracket, it would take all the stress off of the clamping bolt and hopefully keeping it from bending.
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Old 06-18-2011, 07:25 PM   #38
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We purchased a 322FKS about a year ago. I also purchased a 1,200 Lb WD hitch with it as our old unit was much lighter. On the way home from the dealer the brackets bent severely. I took it back to the dealer and he installed heavy duty brackets. Again by the time I arrived home (30 miles) the brackets were bent. On the second return trip to the dealer the manager informed me that they never should have sold me that hitch (even though that is what I asked for!) and installed a 1,500 Lb. hitch. We have put over 8,000 miles on the unit and have not had a single problem since. Buy the way there was no charge for the larger hitch. I am really happy with our dealer and the hitch. My experience says go to the heavier unit.
Hope my experience helps.
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Old 06-18-2011, 10:26 PM   #39
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I will be ordering the necessary components to upgrade to 1,500lbs WDH before our next trip. Did you bold the brackets to the frame, or are you just using the locator bolt?

I'm looking forward to the upgrade and will be interested to see if the ride is any different.
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Old 06-19-2011, 07:09 AM   #40
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I will be ordering the necessary components to upgrade to 1,500lbs WDH before our next trip.......snip
Based on your 32BHDS TT weights noted in your original post (8,300lb ship weight, loaded weight range of 9,300lbs to 9,500lbs) I tend to agree on the 1,500lb rated spring bars.

Bob
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