Anyone with a 14+ Ram 2500 4x4, Equalizer Hitch, and recent model year Jayco? - Page 2

Northern Jay · 03-07-2016, 08:37 PM

A 1400/14000 hitch is not too much for a 28BHBE. I run an Andersen hitch that is rated for 1400/14000 and it works great with our Silverado 3500HD. Our average tongue weight with full FWT is approx 120lbs. (We almost always boondock) The hitch came with a 4" drop/rise shank. I am set on the lowest holes in the rise position. TV/TT combination runs straight and level.
Happy Camping

jsallman1 · 03-07-2016, 09:21 PM

Now here is an interesting way around this problem with the hitch height, its still a class 5 hitch but with a 2" opening and its 3" closer to the ground. Fits under the current one.

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Curt/C15409.html

This would likely make everything I have now work with the 3" drop shank, and avoid the reducer. Now I just have to decide if this looks silly or not

blderman · 03-07-2016, 10:22 PM

I have a 2016 23MBH that I tow with a 2015 Ram 2500. The 23MBH sits at the same height as the trailer your have, at least the ones I have seen did. I have to set my ball at 24" for the trailer to tow level using a Curt TruTrack hitch. This required me getting a 12" shank ball mount as the one that came with the TruTrack kit did not have enough drop.

Flyrotor · 03-07-2016, 11:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsallman1

This would likely make everything I have now work with the 3" drop shank, and avoid the reducer. Now I just have to decide if this looks silly or not

ya, I have a Dodge truck, and there's no way I would do that, it doesn't look right

borninblue · 03-08-2016, 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by borninblue

Great information thank you! I have seen those tailgates and would prefer not to go that route. I agree now thinking it over about the aluminum, it will probably not hold up with the tongue weight.

I do not like the idea of using a reducer, but I guess with these trucks there are not many options.

You talk about a "smaller" Equalizer head and a longer bar to deal with the drop. Do I need to request longer bars from my dealer? I will be getting the Equalizer 10K, is there something else I should be telling my dealer to request this? Again I apologize for my ignorance as this is my first trailer and towing experience with my new Jayco 27BHS.

I would like to get some information about the stock equalizer "bars" and if the drop of the Ram will require me to purchase other bars than what comes stock with the 10K Equalizer.

Camper_bob · 03-08-2016, 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by borninblue

I would like to get some information about the stock equalizer "bars" and if the drop of the Ram will require me to purchase other bars than what comes stock with the 10K Equalizer.

It's not the bars you need to worry about, it's the shank. You may need a deeper drop in your shank to accommodate the taller Ram truck. The hitch head, the spring bars and the spring bar hangers will all remain constant.

borninblue · 03-09-2016, 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Camper_bob

It's not the bars you need to worry about, it's the shank. You may need a deeper drop in your shank to accommodate the taller Ram truck. The hitch head, the spring bars and the spring bar hangers will all remain constant.

Thank you, at least that's one less thing to worry about. Heading out to dealer this week to see if I can get the WDH squared away.

Camper_bob · 03-09-2016, 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by borninblue

Thank you, at least that's one less thing to worry about. Heading out to dealer this week to see if I can get the WDH squared away.

If I were you, I would download the instructions for whatever hitch or hitches you're likely to have installed and get REAL familiar with them. Watch the tech as he's installing your hitch and keep him honest. If he isn't taking a tape measure to your truck first thing (assuming the trailer is already level) then something's not right. The FIRST THING you do in ANY hitch setup is take measurements.

Remember that it's not that the truck needs to be leveled, it's that the trailer needs to be level AFTER weight has been returned to the front axle. That's the purpose of the hitch; to return weight to the front axle.

jsallman1 · 04-25-2016, 04:39 PM

Bought this shank and it looks like the 90-02-4900 - Fastway® 90-02-4900 - Equal-I-Zer Shank 2 1/2" - is going to work fine based on my measurements. It appears it needs to be between the very bottom setting and 1 hole up. The head seems very firm with very little slop in the receiver.

I ordered this online, most dealers in my area don't seem to stock them and they seemed to be sold at quite a markup. Going to get the camper this weekend I hope, looking forward to getting started with the season!

borninblue · 05-15-2016, 02:39 PM

Well against my best judgement I trusted the tech, and I feel itbis installed incorrectly. At low speeds I feel a tugging action, almost like learching back and forth. Not horrible, but I can feel it. At higher speeds it is not noticeable. In thought it was a little nose high on purchase, but they told me it was good and that I would be loading supplies and that I did not want it low. Can anyone please tell me if that tugging is normal? This is my first trailer. The ball is so high that I have to lift the coupler up so high the fuse will blow in the tongue if I go more. I almost always have to have wood blocks underneath the tongue to give me the extra height. Again I have a ram 2500 6.4 and the Jayco 27BHS.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

borninblue · 05-15-2016, 02:42 PM

Sorry I forgot to take a pic hooked up, trailer is at storagr yard right now. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated. I originally had a longer shank selected and dealer talked me out of it. I have one more drop down hole to go. Please see my previous post.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

oldmanAZ · 05-15-2016, 03:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by borninblue

Well against my best judgement I trusted the tech, and I feel itbis installed incorrectly. At low speeds I feel a tugging action, almost like learching back and forth. Not horrible, but I can feel it. At higher speeds it is not noticeable. In thought it was a little nose high on purchase, but they told me it was good and that I would be loading supplies and that I did not want it low. Can anyone please tell me if that tugging is normal? This is my first trailer. The ball is so high that I have to lift the coupler up so high the fuse will blow in the tongue if I go more. I almost always have to have wood blocks underneath the tongue to give me the extra height. Again I have a ram 2500 6.4 and the Jayco 27BHS.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

The lurching feeling could be from the TT rocking front to rear or the TT going over bumps. I suspect that because this is your first TT, it likely that it is a normal sensation you will have to adjust to it. If possible, have a friend that has towed TTs before and have him/her drive it and see if they agree.

It's not unusual to have blocks under the tongue jack. But the more important thing... Is the trailer level or nose high when you were loaded and on the road? Level or slightly nose down preferred. If it is nose high, it wouldn't hurt to drop your ball down the next set of holes. That would help the hitching/unhitching a bit.

It looks like you have an Equal-i-zer 4 point WDH. You could make the ball height change without any other changes. IMO, most of the anti-sway friction seems to be at the hitch head so the frame brackets are not that critical.

borninblue · 05-15-2016, 04:08 PM

Thank you for the insight. It is an equalizer. Unfortunately I have no friends that have towed a trailer before. I wish I did. I can't say for sure if I was slightly nose high, but I believe so. Can I just put a level on the coupler when hooked up to see for sure? The best way I can described it is a "push pull sensation" that increases at slower speeds. I should add this does not occur or feel the same when going over bumps.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

namusmc65 · 05-15-2016, 05:03 PM

If you can't tell by looking, put a tape measure from the ground to the front of the trailer and then do the same at the back and compare. Should be close to the same.

borninblue · 05-15-2016, 05:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by namusmc65

If you can't tell by looking, put a tape measure from the ground to the front of the trailer and then do the same at the back and compare. Should be close to the same.

Little confused, measure from ground to front of trailer coupler? Then back of trailer bumper?

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

jsallman1 · 05-15-2016, 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by borninblue

Little confused, measure from ground to front of trailer coupler? Then back of trailer bumper?

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

The frame of the trailer near the front corner and back corner should be the same height, its 1 long piece of metal. The trailer is riding level if the frame is the same height from the road at the front and the back when hooked up. Don't do this measurement at the coupler and bumper, actually measure to the frame rail

Camper_bob · 05-16-2016, 07:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jsallman1

The frame of the trailer near the front corner and back corner should be the same height, its 1 long piece of metal. The trailer is riding level if the frame is the same height from the road at the front and the back when hooked up. Don't do this measurement at the coupler and bumper, actually measure to the frame rail

And make sure you're on level ground from the front of the tow vehicle to the back of the trailer. Or at least flat ground. Example: You don't want the truck's front axle to be in a dip or on a small incline. You want the truck and trailer to be as vertically straight as possible; all on the same level of ground. A large, empty parking lot (like your local high school on a weekend) typically works well for this.

For a level trailer, you want the distance from the frame to the ground to be the same at the front of the trailer and the rear of the trailer. Use a tape measure instead of a bubble level for this process.

glbtrekker · 05-16-2016, 08:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by borninblue

Well against my best judgement I trusted the tech, and I feel itbis installed incorrectly. At low speeds I feel a tugging action, almost like learching back and forth. Not horrible, but I can feel it. At higher speeds it is not noticeable. In thought it was a little nose high on purchase, but they told me it was good and that I would be loading supplies and that I did not want it low. Can anyone please tell me if that tugging is normal? This is my first trailer. The ball is so high that I have to lift the coupler up so high the fuse will blow in the tongue if I go more. I almost always have to have wood blocks underneath the tongue to give me the extra height. Again I have a ram 2500 6.4 and the Jayco 27BHS.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

We just purchased a 2016 28BHBE and I'm getting the same sensation. I have towed before and have never felt this sensation, but this is the largest trailer that I've towed. It's not porpoising, bounce, etc. nor does it seem to be related to expansion joints/bumps in the road. As best I can describe it, it is a front to back jerking sensation. It's almost like someone is just slightly tapping the trailer brakes ever so often, though it doesn't feel exactly like that either.

Makes me wonder if it's a malfunction with the "Sway Command" system. Or, since my unit has the Morryde, if it's related to that. Btw, I'm towing with a 2013 Chevy Express 3500 with a 1400/14000 Equalizer. Trailer is level to nose down ~1" and front axle is back to unloaded measurement after WDH is attached (rear axle down about 1/2"). I'm stumped as well. My next step will probably be to take my rig to the scales to determine my loaded tongue weight.

borninblue · 05-16-2016, 08:59 AM

Glad I'm not the only one. Just talked to someone at work who thinks I might be nose high. He states I do not feel it as much on the freeway because of the constant high wind pressure. He believes I feel it at low speeds more because the trailer is rocking from front to rear because it is nose high. I'm going to drop down one more hole on the shank. That's all I have left on this shank. I will advise results. Also I do NOT have the sway command.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

borninblue · 05-18-2016, 09:20 AM

Well I finally started making adjustments to my WDH. I had no clue about setup when I bought the trailer, but I did know some basics from reading on here. I knew it was bad to be nose high. I also read that the newer ram 2500's should have a longer shank. I had a longer shank picked out for order and my dealer said it was not needed. I trusted them, shame on me.

I looked at the setup when they were done and it appeared nose high. They said it was perfect so I took their word. Shame on me again, almost a fool now.

Hit the road and felt a push pull sensation, jerking front to rear back and forth very often. Called and they said this is "normal tow experience." I thought just maybe it was me....officially a fool at that point.

Did more research with the equalizer manual they did not provide. Had a friend at work with the proper tools drop the hitch down to the lowest setting.

Hooked her up for the first time since the adjustment today and the jerking sensation is GONE. Towing experience is night and day, truck feels much less strained towing it. Very happy.

I could still use some of your help. I took measurements and feel that I am still slightly nose high. I am also curious about washers, in my exqualizer they only placed 5 I believe, do I need more? Any help for this newbie would be appreaciated!

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

You may also like: