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Old 05-18-2016, 09:30 AM   #41
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Well I finally started making adjustments to my WDH. I had no clue about setup when I bought the trailer, but I did know some basics from reading on here. I knew it was bad to be nose high. I also read that the newer ram 2500's should have a longer shank. I had a longer shank picked out for order and my dealer said it was not needed. I trusted them, shame on me.

I looked at the setup when they were done and it appeared nose high. They said it was perfect so I took their word. Shame on me again, almost a fool now.

Hit the road and felt a push pull sensation, jerking front to rear back and forth very often. Called and they said this is "normal tow experience." I thought just maybe it was me....officially a fool at that point.

Did more research with the equalizer manual they did not provide. Had a friend at work with the proper tools drop the hitch down to the lowest setting.

Hooked her up for the first time since the adjustment today and the jerking sensation is GONE. Towing experience is night and day, truck feels much less strained towing it. Very happy.

I could still use some of your help. I took measurements and feel that I am still slightly nose high. I am also curious about washers, in my exqualizer they only placed 5 I believe, do I need more? Any help for this newbie would be appreaciated!

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Whether you need more washers depends on how effectively you're transferring weight back to the front axle. If you're back to unloaded weight no the front axle, then your head tilt (adjusted by adding/subtracting washers) is likely good as well as the height of your spring bar hangers.

If you're still nose high, you might have to drop the head down some more and adjust again. If you don't have any more holes in your shank (you're already on the lowest hole) then you should probably consider a deeper drop shank. If you drop the hitch head one hole, and the spring bar hangers one hole, you should net a 0 change in weight distribution.

I would download the manual from Progress Manufacturing website and read it front to back, then read it again. Get REAL familiar with how to set the hitch up from scratch and understand what each of your adjustments does. Then attack the hitch setup from scratch with a good tape measure, and a trailer and truck loaded like you would load it for a normal trip.

I did this with my current hitch after I got tired of chasing my tail with adjustments. I just started over from scratch and followed the manual step by step exactly as it said to do. The difference was significant. My hitch is still under-spec'd for my trailer, and is not the right type, but I've got it dialed in as good as it will get. New hitch will be on the way soon... I just have to decide which one I want...
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Old 05-18-2016, 09:38 AM   #42
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Thank you for the help. The current picture displays the trailer unloaded with NO water. I agree that I need to study the manual better. I believe my water tanks are near the rear of the trailer but not sure. Can you provide advice of you think I need to drop more or add washers? The pictures with the tape measures are the front frame and rear frame. As you can see still few inches high in rear. Also I did not adjust the spring arms when I dropped one hole, I left them where they had them. I only have one more hole in the spring arms, should I drop them down too??

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Old 05-18-2016, 11:13 AM   #43
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Overall, I'd say your photos show you've got it looking good; your trailer is virtually level and your weight arms appear to be parallel with your trailer frame.

Like camper_bob said, get the hitch manual and go over it.

Your next step is to measure to see how much load is being transferred to your front axle. Just looking at the photos isn't enough. When you measure like shown in the manual, then you'll know if you need to move the trailer brackets to another hole or add/subtract washers at the hitch head.
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Old 05-18-2016, 01:09 PM   #44
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Some good information in this thread.

Rather than start another thread, I figured I would throw in another question in this one, since I am dealing with the same brand hitch. When setting up the WD hitch going by weight (not measuring), what exactly is it that I should be shooting for at the front axle? Getting the exact same weight (or as close as possible) back on the front axle that is there without the trailer being hooked up? Or a little more? Little less?

I have read my manual front to back enough now that I have it all figured out (going by the measuring system). But I have access to portable vehicle scales, and would like to check that out as well just for piece of mind.
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Old 05-18-2016, 01:26 PM   #45
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Overall, I'd say your photos show you've got it looking good; your trailer is virtually level and your weight arms appear to be parallel with your trailer frame.

Like camper_bob said, get the hitch manual and go over it.

Your next step is to measure to see how much load is being transferred to your front axle. Just looking at the photos isn't enough. When you measure like shown in the manual, then you'll know if you need to move the trailer brackets to another hole or add/subtract washers at the hitch head.
+1

I dunno, from the pics, it looks pretty good (I didn't see them before). On that frame measurement, is that the same frame rail from front all the way to the bumper? I'm trying to remember if my trailer had a different bracket/framing out to the bumper...? Either way, just make sure you're measuring from the same frame rail at the front and back.

I'd say at this point, you need to measure your front fenders with and without weight distribution engaged. Uncouple the trailer from the truck and get a baseline measurement of the center of your front fender height to the ground directly in line with the center of the front axle (empty truck, no trailer). Then couple the trailer without weight distribution and let it all down and re-measure the same spot on the front wheel well. Then engage weight distribution and measure the same spot on the front wheel well. (you want 3 measurements)

You're aiming to get the front wheel well back to that first baseline measurement (its unloaded height). This approximates the front axle being returned to unloaded weight, but a scale will tell you exactly. For now, we use the fender measurements to get close and use a scale to fine-tune. Anyway, if your front fender well measurement with WDH engaged is more (higher) than your baseline, then you need to distribute more weight to the front axle. (And vise versa applies, if it's lower than your baseline, you need to back off some on the tension.) Either add a washer or raise your spring bar hangers for more weight distribution to the front axle, or subtract a washer or lower your spring bar hangers for less, and then re-measure.

All of this assumes that your ball height is set correctly, which it looks like it's good. When I go to do this, I will want to be right about where you are; a little lower in the nose, I want more tongue weight. AND from the pics, it looks like you still have another hole you can go down.

What was your coupler height when the trailer was leveled? This is for my own personal information as it relates to my hitch; I'm trying to decide if I need a deeper drop shank.
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Old 05-18-2016, 01:31 PM   #46
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Some good information in this thread.

Rather than start another thread, I figured I would throw in another question in this one, since I am dealing with the same brand hitch. When setting up the WD hitch going by weight (not measuring), what exactly is it that I should be shooting for at the front axle? Getting the exact same weight (or as close as possible) back on the front axle that is there without the trailer being hooked up? Or a little more? Little less?

I have read my manual front to back enough now that I have it all figured out (going by the measuring system). But I have access to portable vehicle scales, and would like to check that out as well just for piece of mind.
You want to return the front axle to unloaded weight. I've never been able to find anything in any Ram specific manual that states one way or the other, so I'm basing that on my general knowledge of weight distribution hitches. The reason I include that caveat is that from what I understand, different manufacturers have different specs. Some say return 50%, some say 100%, etc. GM says 100% (my old truck), and Ram is mute (AFAIK, I would love to have specific documentation), so I go with 100%.
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Old 05-18-2016, 02:54 PM   #47
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+1

I dunno, from the pics, it looks pretty good (I didn't see them before). On that frame measurement, is that the same frame rail from front all the way to the bumper? I'm trying to remember if my trailer had a different bracket/framing out to the bumper...? Either way, just make sure you're measuring from the same frame rail at the front and back.

I'd say at this point, you need to measure your front fenders with and without weight distribution engaged. Uncouple the trailer from the truck and get a baseline measurement of the center of your front fender height to the ground directly in line with the center of the front axle (empty truck, no trailer). Then couple the trailer without weight distribution and let it all down and re-measure the same spot on the front wheel well. Then engage weight distribution and measure the same spot on the front wheel well. (you want 3 measurements)

You're aiming to get the front wheel well back to that first baseline measurement (its unloaded height). This approximates the front axle being returned to unloaded weight, but a scale will tell you exactly. For now, we use the fender measurements to get close and use a scale to fine-tune. Anyway, if your front fender well measurement with WDH engaged is more (higher) than your baseline, then you need to distribute more weight to the front axle. (And vise versa applies, if it's lower than your baseline, you need to back off some on the tension.) Either add a washer or raise your spring bar hangers for more weight distribution to the front axle, or subtract a washer or lower your spring bar hangers for less, and then re-measure.

All of this assumes that your ball height is set correctly, which it looks like it's good. When I go to do this, I will want to be right about where you are; a little lower in the nose, I want more tongue weight. AND from the pics, it looks like you still have another hole you can go down.

What was your coupler height when the trailer was leveled? This is for my own personal information as it relates to my hitch; I'm trying to decide if I need a deeper drop shank.
Thank you for the detailed reply, I will take the seperate measurements, unloaded, loaded, with distribution and without. That is the same frame from front to rear. Sorry I did not measure the trailer frame when it was not hooked up. Any clue where to get replacement washers? Hardware store or are they special to equalizer? They never gave me the extra washers at the dealer.

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Old 05-18-2016, 03:33 PM   #48
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Thank you for the detailed reply, I will take the seperate measurements, unloaded, loaded, with distribution and without. That is the same frame from front to rear. Sorry I did not measure the trailer frame when it was not hooked up. Any clue where to get replacement washers? Hardware store or are they special to equalizer? They never gave me the extra washers at the dealer.

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They're nothing special, any hardware store should have them. Their QC is pretty low though, so they can vary in thickness by a couple thousandths, but other than that, they're just regular ol' washers.

I asked my dealer tech for some spares and he looked at me like I had a horn coming out of my forehead, but he produced a handful of them for me to take home.
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Old 05-18-2016, 03:36 PM   #49
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They're nothing special, any hardware store should have them. Their QC is pretty low though, so they can vary in thickness by a couple thousandths, but other than that, they're just regular ol' washers.

I asked my dealer tech for some spares and he looked at me like I had a horn coming out of my forehead, but he produced a handful of them for me to take home.
Thank you! I don't see the size listed in manual, only states spacer washer. Any clue on the size short of me taking it apart again?

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Old 05-18-2016, 03:42 PM   #50
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Thank you! I don't see the size listed in manual, only states spacer washer. Any clue on the size short of me taking it apart again?

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Nope, sorry. I just took the extra ones I had with me and matched them up. Progress Manufacturing is VERY helpful though; just drop them an email and they'll help you out
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Old 05-18-2016, 03:42 PM   #51
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Will do, thanks!

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Old 05-18-2016, 03:56 PM   #52
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So I just took the front fender measurement unloaded, and it appears when the trailer is hooked up fully with the WDH engaged my front fender is 1 1/2" to 2" higher. Keep in mind this is without water loaded. Any suggestions? Would you guys add a washer (currently have 5) or raise/lower brackets?

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Old 05-18-2016, 04:55 PM   #53
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So I just took the front fender measurement unloaded, and it appears when the trailer is hooked up fully with the WDH engaged my front fender is 1 1/2" to 2" higher. Keep in mind this is without water loaded. Any suggestions? Would you guys add a washer (currently have 5) or raise/lower brackets?

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I will be adding a washer after my weekend excursion, I also have 5 washers in now which was what I had on my F150 SCREW last year. I ordered a bolt pack for the equalizer from etrailer.com, it arrived today. My distance measurement on the fenders per the install guide I am not QUITE returning 50% of the front fender hight no weight distribution vs weight distribution but its close. Its better to be in the 50-100% return per the instructions.

Cat scale wise, my results where
With WD Engaged: Steer 4020, Drive 4580, Trailer 7320
With WD Disengaged: Steer 3860, Drive 4820, Trailer 7260
No Trailer: Steer 4240, Drive 3480, Trailer 0

So with no weight distribution at all with trailer, my front axle is 420 pounds lighter than with no trailer, adding the weight distribution with 5 washers its 220 pounds lighter. Adding the 6th washer should help get that closer to 0.

Without the manual right in front of me as I type, I believe if you really read the install guide, it actually recommends 6 with higher tongue weight vehicles exceeding 1200 pounds or so, which a Ram 2500 qualifies. It also advises that you should only adjust the brackets if you are temporarily trying to increase the weight distribution, otherwise use up to 8 washers.

The weights above were a loaded travel trailer (29bhds) without water, 2 adults, 2 kids, and some bikes, a wagon, and small bundle of firewood in the bed.
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Old 05-18-2016, 06:11 PM   #54
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I will be adding a washer after my weekend excursion, I also have 5 washers in now which was what I had on my F150 SCREW last year. I ordered a bolt pack for the equalizer from etrailer.com, it arrived today. My distance measurement on the fenders per the install guide I am not QUITE returning 50% of the front fender hight no weight distribution vs weight distribution but its close. Its better to be in the 50-100% return per the instructions.

Cat scale wise, my results where
With WD Engaged: Steer 4020, Drive 4580, Trailer 7320
With WD Disengaged: Steer 3860, Drive 4820, Trailer 7260
No Trailer: Steer 4240, Drive 3480, Trailer 0

So with no weight distribution at all with trailer, my front axle is 420 pounds lighter than with no trailer, adding the weight distribution with 5 washers its 220 pounds lighter. Adding the 6th washer should help get that closer to 0.

Without the manual right in front of me as I type, I believe if you really read the install guide, it actually recommends 6 with higher tongue weight vehicles exceeding 1200 pounds or so, which a Ram 2500 qualifies. It also advises that you should only adjust the brackets if you are temporarily trying to increase the weight distribution, otherwise use up to 8 washers.

The weights above were a loaded travel trailer (29bhds) without water, 2 adults, 2 kids, and some bikes, a wagon, and small bundle of firewood in the bed.
Thank you for the info, the 27bhs is around 620 for hitch weight. I'm a newbie, just trying to see how you determine how I will hit over the 1,000 mark to need the extra washer? Supplies in the bed?

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Old 05-18-2016, 07:21 PM   #55
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Thank you for the info, the 27bhs is around 620 for hitch weight. I'm a newbie, just trying to see how you determine how I will hit over the 1,000 mark to need the extra washer? Supplies in the bed?

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Well, I am at 960 tongue weight (from scale results of truck axles without weight distribution, minus weight of the truck) but according to Jayco's specs I should be at 765, same as your 620 which matches the 2016 specs. You might be surprised how much "stuff" in the trailer can add. If your going to tow with water in the tanks, it really depends where your tanks are as to how much it will affect your weight, mine full of fresh water is 1200-1300lbs easy when I last measured it with a tongue scale. I wouldn't be surprised if you hit or go a little over 1000 honestly, looks like your trailer may hold 76 gallons of fresh water.

Another thing to keep in mind if your going to tow with waste water in the rear of the trailer, you may want to load the front a little heavier to ensure your keeping 10%, probably better 12-14% tongue weight as the waste tanks are likely in the rear and will lighten your load. If you get too back heavy, it wont tow right.

In my honest opinion, best advice anyone can give, go to the scales with your normal load at least in the trailer if not in the TV too, and get your numbers. http://www.jaycoowners.com/showthrea...igh-Your-tt-tv is a great overview how to do it, cost me $14, $10 for the first weigh, $2 for each reweigh. You may have to go pay after the first weigh, so ask before you pull back on, and don't forget to take some wheel chocks along so you can measure unloaded.
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Old 05-18-2016, 08:09 PM   #56
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Well, I am at 960 tongue weight (from scale results of truck axles without weight distribution, minus weight of the truck) but according to Jayco's specs I should be at 765, same as your 620 which matches the 2016 specs. You might be surprised how much "stuff" in the trailer can add. If your going to tow with water in the tanks, it really depends where your tanks are as to how much it will affect your weight, mine full of fresh water is 1200-1300lbs easy when I last measured it with a tongue scale. I wouldn't be surprised if you hit or go a little over 1000 honestly, looks like your trailer may hold 76 gallons of fresh water.

Another thing to keep in mind if your going to tow with waste water in the rear of the trailer, you may want to load the front a little heavier to ensure your keeping 10%, probably better 12-14% tongue weight as the waste tanks are likely in the rear and will lighten your load. If you get too back heavy, it wont tow right.

In my honest opinion, best advice anyone can give, go to the scales with your normal load at least in the trailer if not in the TV too, and get your numbers. http://www.jaycoowners.com/showthrea...igh-Your-tt-tv is a great overview how to do it, cost me $14, $10 for the first weigh, $2 for each reweigh. You may have to go pay after the first weigh, so ask before you pull back on, and don't forget to take some wheel chocks along so you can measure unloaded.
Thanks for the info, makes sense now. I do have the oversized freshwater tanks. Not sure where they are mounted. I'm thinking near the rear. Definitely have some research to do and find scales near me.

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Old 05-18-2016, 08:38 PM   #57
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Thanks for the info, makes sense now. I do have the oversized freshwater tanks. Not sure where they are mounted. I'm thinking near the rear. Definitely have some research to do and find scales near me.

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Any time, glad to be able to share some info.

Your freshwater tanks are likely pretty near where the fill is on the camper, and there will be probably 2 small white overflow hoses sticking down towards the ground underneath the trailer that will start to drain water when you get the tanks full. Mine are roughly half way between between the trailer axles and the tongue (aka tongue weight), all of the waste water tanks are behind the axle and should be pretty apparent where they are by where the drain valves are.
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Old 05-19-2016, 08:00 AM   #58
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With 1.5-2" of rise on the front axle WITH WDH engaged, you're not distributing enough weight. What was the rise on the front axle coupled WITHOUT WDH engaged? I would say add at least one washer and see where you're at. 1/2" to 3/4", probably okay, but more than 1" and I'd be making some adjustments before I bother to find a scale.

Also, how much effort does it take to hang the spring bars? If after you couple the trailer to the truck, if you can easily swing the bars onto the hangers, they're not doing anything (no weight distribution). You will typically need to use the tongue jack to raise the trailer and truck so the bars can be placed on the hangers, or have to use the "cheater" bar, or both.

Good advice on adjusting the spring bar hangers; you really want to use that for "on the fly" adjustments.

Also good advice on locating and considering your water tanks. Mine are right over the front axle of the trailer. Well, actually, I have 2 plumbed together (that's how they get 80 gallons of fresh water capacity); the aft tank is above the front axle, the fore tank is in front of the axle. So I don't get a lot of tongue weight when I add water. My waste tanks are WAY behind the axles, almost all the way to the rear of the coach. So full waste tanks translates to lots of negative tongue weight (but I never tow with them full).

Just for comparison on tongue weight: the book spec on my "unloaded tongue weight" is like 620 lbs. My last measured tongue weight was 960 (I've added a lot since then, but have not re-measured). Lesson: brochure tongue weight means nothing. It does not include batteries, propane, or anything loaded in the trailer. For WDH purposes, tongue weight is also supposed to consider anything loaded in the truck behind the rear axle (per the manual).

When I go to set up my new hitch, I'm going to be looking for AT LEAST 13% tongue weight, 14 or even 15 I think will be ideal. My trailer is LONG, so I want to be on the upper end of the tongue weight range. Plus, the way these integrated sway systems work, the more tension I have on those bars, the more friction sway control I get.
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Old 05-19-2016, 08:47 AM   #59
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With 1.5-2" of rise on the front axle WITH WDH engaged, you're not distributing enough weight. What was the rise on the front axle coupled WITHOUT WDH engaged? I would say add at least one washer and see where you're at. 1/2" to 3/4", probably okay, but more than 1" and I'd be making some adjustments before I bother to find a scale.

Also, how much effort does it take to hang the spring bars? If after you couple the trailer to the truck, if you can easily swing the bars onto the hangers, they're not doing anything (no weight distribution). You will typically need to use the tongue jack to raise the trailer and truck so the bars can be placed on the hangers, or have to use the "cheater" bar, or both.

Good advice on adjusting the spring bar hangers; you really want to use that for "on the fly" adjustments.

Also good advice on locating and considering your water tanks. Mine are right over the front axle of the trailer. Well, actually, I have 2 plumbed together (that's how they get 80 gallons of fresh water capacity); the aft tank is above the front axle, the fore tank is in front of the axle. So I don't get a lot of tongue weight when I add water. My waste tanks are WAY behind the axles, almost all the way to the rear of the coach. So full waste tanks translates to lots of negative tongue weight (but I never tow with them full).

Just for comparison on tongue weight: the book spec on my "unloaded tongue weight" is like 620 lbs. My last measured tongue weight was 960 (I've added a lot since then, but have not re-measured). Lesson: brochure tongue weight means nothing. It does not include batteries, propane, or anything loaded in the trailer. For WDH purposes, tongue weight is also supposed to consider anything loaded in the truck behind the rear axle (per the manual).

When I go to set up my new hitch, I'm going to be looking for AT LEAST 13% tongue weight, 14 or even 15 I think will be ideal. My trailer is LONG, so I want to be on the upper end of the tongue weight range. Plus, the way these integrated sway systems work, the more tension I have on those bars, the more friction sway control I get.
I did not take the measurement yet with the WDH not engaged. Only engaged, and then not hooked up are the measurements I have.

Good tips on the bars, right now I have to raise the tongue a little but not much to engage the bars. I can place them up on the brackets by hand without the tool.

From where my fill point and low drain lines are it appears my tanks are at the same location as yours ( I also have 80 gallons). My waste tank is also at the very rear of the trailer. I am about to call to see about the size of the washers or if they can send me some. How many washers did you say you have installed?
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Old 05-19-2016, 08:51 AM   #60
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Location: Salem
Posts: 819
Are you using the TT tongue jack to set the spring bars on the hangers? With that heavy of a TW you should have to jack the tongue up about 4-5" before the spring bars will set on the L brackets. You should still have to use the tool provided. When I had my EQ and TT with 900-950lb TW I had to jack up the tongue pretty high to be able to set the spring bars. I also ran 6 washers.
You really only need one fender measurements unless you have a Ford. GM and Ram are similar. Measure the front fender unloaded. It doesn't matter how high it gets with the TT coupled and no WD engaged. You still need to return it to the unloaded height or real close.


With all that being said I had a SOB TT that I could never get the push pull jerk out of it. It was just what it was. I used 3 different WDs and even tried it without. Nothing changed the towing. Some TTs IMO are just poorly designed. That's why some guys will say theirs tow great and some hate theirs. That's also why some changes to the WD work for some and not for others.
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