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Old 05-18-2016, 10:30 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by borninblue View Post
Well I finally started making adjustments to my WDH. I had no clue about setup when I bought the trailer, but I did know some basics from reading on here. I knew it was bad to be nose high. I also read that the newer ram 2500's should have a longer shank. I had a longer shank picked out for order and my dealer said it was not needed. I trusted them, shame on me.

I looked at the setup when they were done and it appeared nose high. They said it was perfect so I took their word. Shame on me again, almost a fool now.

Hit the road and felt a push pull sensation, jerking front to rear back and forth very often. Called and they said this is "normal tow experience." I thought just maybe it was me....officially a fool at that point.

Did more research with the equalizer manual they did not provide. Had a friend at work with the proper tools drop the hitch down to the lowest setting.

Hooked her up for the first time since the adjustment today and the jerking sensation is GONE. Towing experience is night and day, truck feels much less strained towing it. Very happy.

I could still use some of your help. I took measurements and feel that I am still slightly nose high. I am also curious about washers, in my exqualizer they only placed 5 I believe, do I need more? Any help for this newbie would be appreaciated!

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Whether you need more washers depends on how effectively you're transferring weight back to the front axle. If you're back to unloaded weight no the front axle, then your head tilt (adjusted by adding/subtracting washers) is likely good as well as the height of your spring bar hangers.

If you're still nose high, you might have to drop the head down some more and adjust again. If you don't have any more holes in your shank (you're already on the lowest hole) then you should probably consider a deeper drop shank. If you drop the hitch head one hole, and the spring bar hangers one hole, you should net a 0 change in weight distribution.

I would download the manual from Progress Manufacturing website and read it front to back, then read it again. Get REAL familiar with how to set the hitch up from scratch and understand what each of your adjustments does. Then attack the hitch setup from scratch with a good tape measure, and a trailer and truck loaded like you would load it for a normal trip.

I did this with my current hitch after I got tired of chasing my tail with adjustments. I just started over from scratch and followed the manual step by step exactly as it said to do. The difference was significant. My hitch is still under-spec'd for my trailer, and is not the right type, but I've got it dialed in as good as it will get. New hitch will be on the way soon... I just have to decide which one I want...
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Old 05-18-2016, 10:38 AM   #42
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Thank you for the help. The current picture displays the trailer unloaded with NO water. I agree that I need to study the manual better. I believe my water tanks are near the rear of the trailer but not sure. Can you provide advice of you think I need to drop more or add washers? The pictures with the tape measures are the front frame and rear frame. As you can see still few inches high in rear. Also I did not adjust the spring arms when I dropped one hole, I left them where they had them. I only have one more hole in the spring arms, should I drop them down too??

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Old 05-18-2016, 12:13 PM   #43
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Overall, I'd say your photos show you've got it looking good; your trailer is virtually level and your weight arms appear to be parallel with your trailer frame.

Like camper_bob said, get the hitch manual and go over it.

Your next step is to measure to see how much load is being transferred to your front axle. Just looking at the photos isn't enough. When you measure like shown in the manual, then you'll know if you need to move the trailer brackets to another hole or add/subtract washers at the hitch head.
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Old 05-18-2016, 02:09 PM   #44
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Some good information in this thread.

Rather than start another thread, I figured I would throw in another question in this one, since I am dealing with the same brand hitch. When setting up the WD hitch going by weight (not measuring), what exactly is it that I should be shooting for at the front axle? Getting the exact same weight (or as close as possible) back on the front axle that is there without the trailer being hooked up? Or a little more? Little less?

I have read my manual front to back enough now that I have it all figured out (going by the measuring system). But I have access to portable vehicle scales, and would like to check that out as well just for piece of mind.
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Old 05-18-2016, 02:26 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by oldmanAZ View Post
Overall, I'd say your photos show you've got it looking good; your trailer is virtually level and your weight arms appear to be parallel with your trailer frame.

Like camper_bob said, get the hitch manual and go over it.

Your next step is to measure to see how much load is being transferred to your front axle. Just looking at the photos isn't enough. When you measure like shown in the manual, then you'll know if you need to move the trailer brackets to another hole or add/subtract washers at the hitch head.
+1

I dunno, from the pics, it looks pretty good (I didn't see them before). On that frame measurement, is that the same frame rail from front all the way to the bumper? I'm trying to remember if my trailer had a different bracket/framing out to the bumper...? Either way, just make sure you're measuring from the same frame rail at the front and back.

I'd say at this point, you need to measure your front fenders with and without weight distribution engaged. Uncouple the trailer from the truck and get a baseline measurement of the center of your front fender height to the ground directly in line with the center of the front axle (empty truck, no trailer). Then couple the trailer without weight distribution and let it all down and re-measure the same spot on the front wheel well. Then engage weight distribution and measure the same spot on the front wheel well. (you want 3 measurements)

You're aiming to get the front wheel well back to that first baseline measurement (its unloaded height). This approximates the front axle being returned to unloaded weight, but a scale will tell you exactly. For now, we use the fender measurements to get close and use a scale to fine-tune. Anyway, if your front fender well measurement with WDH engaged is more (higher) than your baseline, then you need to distribute more weight to the front axle. (And vise versa applies, if it's lower than your baseline, you need to back off some on the tension.) Either add a washer or raise your spring bar hangers for more weight distribution to the front axle, or subtract a washer or lower your spring bar hangers for less, and then re-measure.

All of this assumes that your ball height is set correctly, which it looks like it's good. When I go to do this, I will want to be right about where you are; a little lower in the nose, I want more tongue weight. AND from the pics, it looks like you still have another hole you can go down.

What was your coupler height when the trailer was leveled? This is for my own personal information as it relates to my hitch; I'm trying to decide if I need a deeper drop shank.
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Upgraded from an REI internal frame backpack and a Eureka 1/2 dome tent!
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Old 05-18-2016, 02:31 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olyelr View Post
Some good information in this thread.

Rather than start another thread, I figured I would throw in another question in this one, since I am dealing with the same brand hitch. When setting up the WD hitch going by weight (not measuring), what exactly is it that I should be shooting for at the front axle? Getting the exact same weight (or as close as possible) back on the front axle that is there without the trailer being hooked up? Or a little more? Little less?

I have read my manual front to back enough now that I have it all figured out (going by the measuring system). But I have access to portable vehicle scales, and would like to check that out as well just for piece of mind.
You want to return the front axle to unloaded weight. I've never been able to find anything in any Ram specific manual that states one way or the other, so I'm basing that on my general knowledge of weight distribution hitches. The reason I include that caveat is that from what I understand, different manufacturers have different specs. Some say return 50%, some say 100%, etc. GM says 100% (my old truck), and Ram is mute (AFAIK, I would love to have specific documentation), so I go with 100%.
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Upgraded from an REI internal frame backpack and a Eureka 1/2 dome tent!
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Old 05-18-2016, 03:54 PM   #47
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+1

I dunno, from the pics, it looks pretty good (I didn't see them before). On that frame measurement, is that the same frame rail from front all the way to the bumper? I'm trying to remember if my trailer had a different bracket/framing out to the bumper...? Either way, just make sure you're measuring from the same frame rail at the front and back.

I'd say at this point, you need to measure your front fenders with and without weight distribution engaged. Uncouple the trailer from the truck and get a baseline measurement of the center of your front fender height to the ground directly in line with the center of the front axle (empty truck, no trailer). Then couple the trailer without weight distribution and let it all down and re-measure the same spot on the front wheel well. Then engage weight distribution and measure the same spot on the front wheel well. (you want 3 measurements)

You're aiming to get the front wheel well back to that first baseline measurement (its unloaded height). This approximates the front axle being returned to unloaded weight, but a scale will tell you exactly. For now, we use the fender measurements to get close and use a scale to fine-tune. Anyway, if your front fender well measurement with WDH engaged is more (higher) than your baseline, then you need to distribute more weight to the front axle. (And vise versa applies, if it's lower than your baseline, you need to back off some on the tension.) Either add a washer or raise your spring bar hangers for more weight distribution to the front axle, or subtract a washer or lower your spring bar hangers for less, and then re-measure.

All of this assumes that your ball height is set correctly, which it looks like it's good. When I go to do this, I will want to be right about where you are; a little lower in the nose, I want more tongue weight. AND from the pics, it looks like you still have another hole you can go down.

What was your coupler height when the trailer was leveled? This is for my own personal information as it relates to my hitch; I'm trying to decide if I need a deeper drop shank.
Thank you for the detailed reply, I will take the seperate measurements, unloaded, loaded, with distribution and without. That is the same frame from front to rear. Sorry I did not measure the trailer frame when it was not hooked up. Any clue where to get replacement washers? Hardware store or are they special to equalizer? They never gave me the extra washers at the dealer.

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Old 05-18-2016, 04:33 PM   #48
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Thank you for the detailed reply, I will take the seperate measurements, unloaded, loaded, with distribution and without. That is the same frame from front to rear. Sorry I did not measure the trailer frame when it was not hooked up. Any clue where to get replacement washers? Hardware store or are they special to equalizer? They never gave me the extra washers at the dealer.

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They're nothing special, any hardware store should have them. Their QC is pretty low though, so they can vary in thickness by a couple thousandths, but other than that, they're just regular ol' washers.

I asked my dealer tech for some spares and he looked at me like I had a horn coming out of my forehead, but he produced a handful of them for me to take home.
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2014 Jay Flight 28 BHBE
2015 RAM 2500 6.4L HEMI, Tradesman 4x4, 3.73
Blue Ox SwayPro (BXW 1503)

Upgraded from an REI internal frame backpack and a Eureka 1/2 dome tent!
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Old 05-18-2016, 04:36 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by Camper_bob View Post
They're nothing special, any hardware store should have them. Their QC is pretty low though, so they can vary in thickness by a couple thousandths, but other than that, they're just regular ol' washers.

I asked my dealer tech for some spares and he looked at me like I had a horn coming out of my forehead, but he produced a handful of them for me to take home.
Thank you! I don't see the size listed in manual, only states spacer washer. Any clue on the size short of me taking it apart again?

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Old 05-18-2016, 04:42 PM   #50
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Thank you! I don't see the size listed in manual, only states spacer washer. Any clue on the size short of me taking it apart again?

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Nope, sorry. I just took the extra ones I had with me and matched them up. Progress Manufacturing is VERY helpful though; just drop them an email and they'll help you out
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