Atwood Hot Water Tank Plug with drain

[tazzman1961]

I am looking to put a plug with a shutoff fitting, so I don't have to keep putting the plastic one with thread tape every time I blow out my system in the winter.
I have been reading not to use brass because of dissimilar metal with the aluminum Atwood tanks.

So, I was considering using a 1/2 npt pvc or some other plastic fitting and put a drain valve on it. I read somewhere that the pvc would not hold up to the pressure of the tank, not sure if true or not.

I was also looking at this Camco 11533 4.5” Anode Rod with Drain for Atwood Aluminum Water Heater. Says it's for aluminum Atwood tanks and has a Magnesium Anode Rod. It does not say what the thread's part is made of, but since it says Atwood aluminum tanks, I would think it's ok to use.
Not sure why it has the Anode on it. I read that because Atwood is aluminum it does not get the build up like other tanks

Any suggestions or thoughts about this?
Thanks
Dean

[16WhiteColly]

The plug thread would not be made of aluminum, would be steel. If steel is screwed into aluminum ever, you need to use Anti Sieze compound to prevent galling.

[tazzman1961]

16WhiteColly
I thought the same thing regarding the threads. Any thoughts about PVC or similar fittings?

[norty1]

Atwood does not recommend the anode. After market sellers want you to buy the un-needed product.

I used a 1/2 inch CPVC plug once.

[Rustic Eagle]

I modified both my HWH pressure relief valve drain and tank drain plug.

Reference Posts #32, #56, and #60 here: https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...s-51005-2.html

Bob

[Isaacs]

I would be concerned that the low water flow out of that little hole wouldn't be enough to swish the sediment out of the bottom of the tank. That big hole is there for a reason.

[skids]

It does take quit awhile to drain the tank. I started using nylon plugs.

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by Isaacs

I would be concerned that the low water flow out of that little hole wouldn't be enough to swish the sediment out of the bottom of the tank.....snip

In my case I take numerous trips during the year and drain my HWH between each trip, thus the valve. However, I do remove my drain valve assembly at least once a year and give the HWH a good flushing.

Bob

[16WhiteColly]

I drain mine at the end of each trip for 5+ years now. I have the Camco Hybrid Heat Kit installed on mine, so I just unscrew the electric heat probe. It drains very fast with the pressure relief valve open.

[ggilbert]

This I’d the valve I used
Litorange 2 PCS Heavy Duty Brass... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q12XG5N...p_mob_ap_share

I had to take the red handle off to install it. And re install after screwing the fitting in.

[Isaacs]

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

In my case I take numerous trips during the year and drain my HWH between each trip, thus the valve. However, I do remove my drain valve assembly at least once a year and give the HWH a good flushing.

Bob

This sounds like a good idea. I assume you drain frequently so the water doesn't get all stinky?

[Jagiven]

You do not need an anode rod in the atwood WH. The drain port on that thing is tiny, hence it will be very slow to drain.

I installed a setup like Rustic Eagle notes in post 56:

I picked up a short 1/2" pipe nipple, a 12" braided faucet hose, and a 1/4 turn ball valve for a faucet. All hooked up to the drain port. Works very nice.

[Rustic Eagle]

Originally Posted by Isaacs

snip......I assume you drain frequently so the water doesn't get all stinky?

You're correct....

I can't always control the quality of my water source during my travels, so while my TT sits in storage between trips it may have compromised (odor) water in the HWH....., an odor can be especially noticeable when re-heated during the next trip.

Bob

[Johnynorthland]

I drain my tank all the time. So I had to do that mod with a steal braided hose and 1/4 turn shutoff valve.

The only issue I had was the double male threaded nipple I bought kept leaking. First I used the roll white Teflon thread sealer on it, kept leaking, then I used the Teflon dope/paste sealer, went back to the Teflon,white tape again, it kept leaking! Finely I replaced the plastic nipple with brass, then used the Oatey, gray colored Fast tape, “best sealing tape” and BINGO, stopped leaking! I guess I could of tried it on the plastic nipple but the plastic was getting chewed up from taking it on/off trying to stop the drip.


Now it’s also easy to remove for tank rinsing. As far as it taking time to drain the tank with the small hose opening, it’s not too bad, and you don’t have to wait till the tank cools off to drain it, you just need to hold on to the hose and point it away from you when you first open it so you don’t get burned!

[Jab55]

Thank you Rustic Eagle. I winterize several times a year and jacking with the little plastic plug is a hassle. I never liked the little screw in valves because it restricts the drain flow too much in my opinion. Your solution is perfect....and if I want to unscrew the drain from the water heater once a year it's not a big issue. It's on my list of things to do before my next trip in January.

Johnny Northland I will start with the Grey Oatey tape and the plastic fitting....hopefully no leaks. That is the best sealing tape.

[Toad]

It is my understanding that the plastic plug installed on the hot water heater is also part of the safety device for an over pressurized tank. If the tank malfunctions, the plug will blow out keeping the tank from exploding. Steel plug will not blow out. Thoughts?

Originally Posted by tazzman1961

I am looking to put a plug with a shutoff fitting, so I don't have to keep putting the plastic one with thread tape every time I blow out my system in the winter.
I have been reading not to use brass because of dissimilar metal with the aluminum Atwood tanks.

So, I was considering using a 1/2 npt pvc or some other plastic fitting and put a drain valve on it. I read somewhere that the pvc would not hold up to the pressure of the tank, not sure if true or not.

I was also looking at this Camco 11533 4.5” Anode Rod with Drain for Atwood Aluminum Water Heater. Says it's for aluminum Atwood tanks and has a Magnesium Anode Rod. It does not say what the thread's part is made of, but since it says Atwood aluminum tanks, I would think it's ok to use.
Not sure why it has the Anode on it. I read that because Atwood is aluminum it does not get the build up like other tanks

Any suggestions or thoughts about this?
Thanks
Dean

[joe w]

Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle

In my case I take numerous trips during the year and drain my HWH between each trip, thus the valve. However, I do remove my drain valve assembly at least once a year and give the HWH a good flushing.

Bob

That's exactly what I do.

[Parrott]

Originally Posted by Toad

It is my understanding that the plastic plug installed on the hot water heater is also part of the safety device for an over pressurized tank. If the tank malfunctions, the plug will blow out keeping the tank from exploding. Steel plug will not blow out. Thoughts?

Your tank has a pressure relief valve for that.

[Hollander Mutthaulers]

I use a PCVP close nipple to SS water line to brass valve. Has worked for years for me. Previously did not trust CVP and plastic warped and leaked.

[Rustic Eagle]

Just flushed my HWH a couple days ago..., re-applied my reliable "Oatey" Great White Pipe Joint Compound (#31229) on the plastic adapter threads and re-connected the valve assembly to the HWH. Running hot water drip free.

Bob

ps: Best to use a plastic adapter with 'non-tapered' threads.