Atwood water heater leaking

[spudthegreater]

Just bought a used jayco 20bh, found a wet spot right under the electric element, but I hadn't noticed it until my daughter activated both gas and electric heater switches when she turned on the water pump switch. i noticed it the next day. Checked youtube.com for this issue and His was a leak caused by corroded element threads. He ended up replacing the tank. I finally got the unit dismantled and of course found rotted wood which i cut out and am in the process of repairing. Not terribly extensive. But my question is this, is it the threads of the element/rubber gasket leaking or something else in the same area. ? what is the most common problem here? Does an element change out with new gasket repair the leak or do you typically find that a tank replacement is needed? at 3 to 4 hundred dollars, I'm apt to weld a plug in that hole and use propane only like my old Elkhorn truck camper had. no element, no leak. Just wanted a concensus with this. Not seeing any cracks or corroded thread portions on the tank.

[sturgissteele]

Hi ya! I found some info that may be helpful; LINKY Hope that helps! Good luck and happy camping!

[spudthegreater]

Did you have a link?

[sturgissteele]

Originally Posted by spudthegreater

Did you have a link?

The word LINKY, in the above post, is the link. Give it a click.

[Jagiven]

It is common to have to replace the electric heating element. If you run the WH without water in the tank the element burns out quickly. I have not heard of it, but you could get a leak at the heating element. Former owner may have had to replace the element, and did not get it properly installed.

As for common Atwood WH leaks; There is not many, Atwood water heaters do not rust/corrode through, so I would primarily focus on fittings.

I have had a pipe nipple between the WH and the pex start leaking after about 5 years of ownership. First year, I just snugged up the fitting. Second year it was leaking again. Disassembled and applied new pipe sealant.

Of course a frozen tank will burst, but you will know that real quickly.

Lastly, my parents had some bad caulking between the WH and TT wall framing. Took two years to find.

I use the onboard water pump to confirm the plumbing system is not leaking. Put water in the FW tank, fill all water lines and WH tank using the pump. With the pump powered on, close all faucets. The pump will turn off a few moments later. Listen for the pump. If the pump cycles on/off, there is a leak. If all faucets are closed and the system is sealed, the pump will not cycle at all, even for days.

[spudthegreater]

Good feedback. Was planning on doing a leak test as soon as my parts show up. Doing a new pressure relief valve and heating element. I have the whole assembly removed on a work bench right now, haven't been able to find any cracks in the tank, suspecting it was the element or the rubber gasket on the element.

[Jagiven]

If you pressure test it on the workbench, I would try to keep the pressure fairly low. I believe the Pressure relief valve is a 75 PSI unit, I might shot for 60-65 psi. When doing plumbing in a house, you are required (at least here) to pressure test a 100 psi, and can only have a 1(??) psi drop over 24 hours. If it leaks you will know very quickly.

When you put it back in, don't use any type of silicone caulking. Best would be Butyl. But I would use OSI Quad in a pinch

[spudthegreater]

Roger that, already ordered white Butyl tape. Thanks for the info.

[muckinfuss]

the relief valve is a standard of 150 psi and 200 degree F for activation. That said, they are a primary leak source. Just replaced mine.

I recommend pipe dope for any install....tends to be first and final....ptfe tape not so much.