Atwood WH - plug and cleaning burner tube

lefoster · 03-22-2018, 09:55 AM

Could the Atwood water heater plug be in a more awkward place? anyone have an easy way to access it or extend it or anything?

I believe I need to clean the burner tube, so how is that done?

Robbbyr · 03-22-2018, 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lefoster

Could the Atwood water heater plug be in a more awkward place? anyone have an easy way to access it or extend it or anything?

I believe I need to clean the burner tube, so how is that done?

Yeah, it isn't in a great spot. Several owners have rigged up extensions using a flex hose with a valve on the end.

Regarding the burner, I use a thin bottle brush to break up any webs or nests then blow it out with compressed air. Has worked on 3 units!

Robbbyr · 03-22-2018, 10:06 AM

Check here for a couple of drain extension ideas: https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...od-7220-2.html

lefoster · 03-22-2018, 10:09 AM

thanks y'all! how do I access the tube to get the little brush in there?

lefoster · 03-22-2018, 10:16 AM

I looked at the drain extensions.......so, it is ok for those valves and lines to lay in the water heater cabinet, and the heat does not hurt them?

Robbbyr · 03-22-2018, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lefoster

thanks y'all! how do I access the tube to get the little brush in there?

I remove the small setscrew on the burner's air shutter and then slide it out of the way. A slight "rust ring" remains so I know where to put it back to when I am done. Before I call it completed I check the flame on fire-up to make sure it is burning properly, both from a mixture standpoint and obstructions. Nice blue flame with just some yellow on the tips.

Best to only run the burner when the tank is full of water!

lefoster · 03-22-2018, 10:19 AM

great! I can do that!

Robbbyr · 03-22-2018, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lefoster

I looked at the drain extensions.......so, it is ok for those valves and lines to lay in the water heater cabinet, and the heat does not hurt them?

I don't use an extension myself, I have a 10-gallon Atwood and the larger size allows me to use a socket on an extension to remove mine without a problem.

I know some owners have expressed a concern about screwing a different metal into the Atwood's aluminum tank. Atwood uses a plastic plug so it isn't a possible issue. I am not a metallurgist so I can't say whether it could be a problem long-term.

I do doubt the heat at the bottom would be an issue, there already is wiring and such in the enclosure.

ifallsguy · 03-22-2018, 12:06 PM

the plug is a bit of a pain on our SLX 212QBW but a socket on a universal joint and extension makes it easy to remove. Putting it on can be a bit of a challenge to not cross thread, but once right, hand tighten with the socket, joint and extension.

I do make sure to carry a spare plug in my toolkit.

jimp · 03-22-2018, 02:33 PM

They also make a WH plug wrench, which is a flat metal bar bent to make it easier to get the socket style opening on the plug itself. Works pretty good and pretty cheap, fits in the tool bag pretty good as well.

Jagiven · 03-22-2018, 05:15 PM

There are three sheet metal screws as I recall that hold the flame tube in place. As in recall, u removed them, and them blow compressed air thought the assembly. Just make a witness mark, to ensure you keep the air fuel mix adjustment the same.

lefoster · 03-23-2018, 08:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jimp

They also make a WH plug wrench, which is a flat metal bar bent to make it easier to get the socket style opening on the plug itself. Works pretty good and pretty cheap, fits in the tool bag pretty good as well.

and where would I find this magic tool!!! I tried a longer socket yesterday and it would not fit on the plug because of the gas line. even a small extension that would get the plug out from behind the gas line would be awesome, but with the downward angle of the plug, I run into the bottom of the WH box. at least I don't have to take it out often, but good grief!

lefoster · 03-23-2018, 08:31 AM

also, anyone, to clean the burner tube, I slid the air regulator thing back as far as I could, which let me clean cob webs off the orifice, but I still cannot get anything down the entire tube..........do I have to take the whole thing off to clean it?

bankr63 · 03-23-2018, 10:31 AM

When I remove my drain plug I just remove the metal baffle covering the exhaust. 3 zip screws hold it in place. With this out of the way, it's easy to reach with a stubby crescent wrench or a slip joint pliers. Screw the baffle back in place when done.

lefoster · 03-23-2018, 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bankr63

When I remove my drain plug I just remove the metal baffle covering the exhaust. 3 zip screws hold it in place. With this out of the way, it's easy to reach with a stubby crescent wrench or a slip joint pliers. Screw the baffle back in place when done.

great idea! thanks!

Swampy · 03-23-2018, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lefoster

I looked at the drain extensions.......so, it is ok for those valves and lines to lay in the water heater cabinet, and the heat does not hurt them?

Yes, it normally does not get warm enough in the bottom of the WH cabinet to affect any plastic plumbing parts.

As far as access to the burner tube, you can simply mark & move the air adjustment sleeve (with the slots near the front) else you can remove a few screws and take the whole assembly out. I found that a cleaner brush for a hummingbird feeder was perfect for cleaning out the spider webs. While you are working on the WH, consider putting a section of aluminum screen wire over the exhaust grill.For a few cents you can block the spiders and wasps that will eventually get in there and cause you problems.

Happy Camping

Swampy

**norty1** · 03-23-2018, 05:58 PM

I had an Atwood ona previous rig and I used to remove the nylon plug with one prong of a 4 way lug wrench.

RoadrunnerII · 03-23-2018, 06:10 PM

Hi as for an extension I used a nylon nipple size of the plug and other side of the nipple used a stainless toilet tank hose to a water shut-off valve. Works great and no issues draining tank or galvanic action because the nylon nipple separates the unlike metals
I borrowed the setup from someone else's post on another forum

RoadrunnerII

Sent from my Moto G Play using Tapatalk

Murff · 03-23-2018, 06:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lefoster

and where would I find this magic tool!!! I tried a longer socket yesterday and it would not fit on the plug because of the gas line. even a small extension that would get the plug out from behind the gas line would be awesome, but with the downward angle of the plug, I run into the bottom of the WH box. at least I don't have to take it out often, but good grief!

Maybe here:

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-11633-W..._&dpSrc=detail

Murff

Swampy · 03-23-2018, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lefoster

and where would I find this magic tool!!! I tried a longer socket yesterday and it would not fit on the plug because of the gas line. even a small extension that would get the plug out from behind the gas line would be awesome, but with the downward angle of the plug, I run into the bottom of the WH box. at least I don't have to take it out often, but good grief!

I have enough room to fit the 15/16" socket on a 6" extension, 1/2" drive to take it out or put it in. IMHO, if I had one of those ratcheting combination wrenches in that size, it would likely work as well or better. Those flat stamped steel wrenches as in the WH plug kit will wear you out trying to remove or install the plug. I may be installing a flexible hose with shut off valve the next time I drain the WH, since I end up draining it several times per year to sanitize, decalcify, & clean, and winterize.

good camping

Swampy

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