Awning gas strut replacement

[Camp Bob]

Our 23MRB awning has been opened maybe 12 times from 5 camping trips. One of the gas struts gave up, which is actually a little dangerous. The dealer says the strut is not a serviceable item, I have to replace the entire arm. I got the same story from Jayco Parts. They want $500 w/o labor to replace the arm and all it needs is a strut which is likely $40-$60. I've been looking around the web, and there are parts around, but am nervous they are a suitable replacement. Being a 20 foot awning, I suspect it is one of the strongest out there. The numbers on the arm and strut follows. Has anyone had this issue and what did you do for parts.
Thanks for any info.

Rear awning arm: $499.00 Part#0267676
Numbers on strut
Stabilus OPT-O-MAT
0252140600N 088/18 A 3M
3108392.139

Numbers on arm
Mfg/No 8952002.400UL1
MFG/PNC 95869950
Serial Number 81694660
SKUNo 9108893035

[norty1]

I googled the numbers on the arm:

https://www.amazon.com/Replaces-3108.../dp/B08QLBBPB9

[Camp Bob]

We saw those, but don't know if the length is correct. I am asking Jayco for length and force details on the original parts, but don't have a response yet. For that price, will probably get those if they don't answer soon and take our chances. I shouldn't be, but an surprised Jayco won't sell the strut loose. They said getting the $500 arm would take 2-3 weeks lead time. That tells me they need to build it up from parts on hand - so why won't they send me the only part I need?

[norty1]

I don't know but there may be enough detail on the strut site to determine if that can be mounted on your awning arm.

[Racinforthefinish]

Did the strut quit or just become weak? On our 23MRB the front strut became weak and I would have to wait on it a bit while rolling up. My dealer replaced the strut under warranty but a couple of weeks later it started doing the slow response again. Now I just wait on it and it doesn't seem to get worse. Just a bit slow.

[norty1]

The ones on my 2017 truck are failing in hot weather to hold the hood up. Winter they are fine. Broom stick time!

[Camp Bob]

I was also looking for a YouTube video on the replacement process. I think the strut load is 600N = 135#, so likely a little tricky to hold the awning up while pulling the pins and doing the swap. I'm sure I could figure it out, but if someone already has, learn from them.

[Camp Bob]

It provides no assist at all. The awning wants to crash back into the trailer when retracting.

[Camp Bob]

That is unusual. I worked in the auto industry. From what I know, winter temps result in weak or slow function as the gas "shrinks" in the cold. Hot weather makes them want to expand and be stronger.

[norty1]

Originally Posted by Camp Bob

That is unusual. I worked in the auto industry. From what I know, winter temps result in weak or slow function as the gas "shrinks" in the cold. Hot weather makes them want to expand and be stronger.

Yep but maybe one is marginal and it takes them both to hold it up.

Struts are all over modern vehicles and rv's. I don't know much about them except they a nuisance when not working correctly.

[Camp Bob]

Also, possibly interesting... one local dealer posted a video claiming you should open and close struts slowly, or at least take breaks for the gas to travel through the strut. Don't do it all in one shot. I question that, as many automotive hoods and liftgates use gas struts. I don't recall anyone ever saying don't open or close in one motion, in any weather. I have a 2008 Jeep with original struts and no issues.

[norty1]

What is surprising is the the op is being told that they are not replaceable.

That's not sensible, like telling me, "You have to replace the hood!"

[Camp Bob]

That's what I thought. In my note to Jayco, I said said the weren't being very eco friendly, forcing me to throw out a good arm to replace a strut. What a waste.

[16WhiteColly]

Jayco is not very helpful when it comes to service/repair questions. They want everything to go thru the dealer. Must be a liability issue.

[RAurand]

Originally Posted by norty1

What is surprising is the the op is being told that they are not replaceable.

That's not sensible, like telling me, "You have to replace the hood!"

I replaced the front strut on my 28BHBE awning. It was easy to do. I took a picture of the paper tab on the strut with the information and then, used that number to order mine. Fit perfectly!

[Camp Bob]

Who did you order through?

[RAurand]

Originally Posted by Camp Bob

Who did you order through?

I do not remember but here is a start:

Here is a good video:
https://youtu.be/QmsL3ansXE0
Lift support:
https://www.liftsupportsdepot.com/

[01tundra]

Originally Posted by Camp Bob

Also, possibly interesting... one local dealer posted a video claiming you should open and close struts slowly, or at least take breaks for the gas to travel through the strut. Don't do it all in one shot. I question that, as many automotive hoods and liftgates use gas struts. I don't recall anyone ever saying don't open or close in one motion, in any weather. I have a 2008 Jeep with original struts and no issues.

That video is by "Josh the rv nerd" and it's complete BS......

Being a mechanical engineer I already new this, but to really debunk him I personally spoke to both a gas strut (air spring) design engineer and Dometic engineer and they both confirmed that it's BS. Recently representatives from Lippert also agreed that this is completely false. Of course, he doesn't want to talk about it now.

They are a sealed unit filled with Nitrogen and oil and work on the principle of metered flow through a bypass valve to help control/dampen motion. Same basic way a shock absorber, office chair, hatch back, automotive hoods, marine applications,........etc. work.

They are designed for a certain number of cycles, the only real way they can fail is by losing the seal, a corroded shaft arm or physical damage. If you remove the air spring from the awning and compress it and then let it extend naturally, it's going to move way faster than any awning does.

His assertion of "It's like a super soaker gun in a pool, you have to let the air catch up" is ignorant and laughable, if the piston isn't moving there's no bypass in the valve......he needs to stick to selling RV's, which he is apparently good at.

[Jagiven]

I am not sure how each of the different manufactures assemble their awnings. Based on my awning, I can see why they say you have to replace the entire arm assembly. The awning arm, is assembled with rivets, including the strut mount. To remove the strut, you have to drill out two rivets, one of which is in a main pivot point. For the average person, it would be a challenge to remove the rivet and not twist the frame.

The rivets on my unit look to be made of aluminum. Honestly, I would be afraid it would fail. If I was to replace the strut, I would look at a SS Binder Post (aka Chicago Screw), to replace the rivet, with a drop of Loctite. Chicago screws come in all kinds of lengths and diameters.

To pick the right strut, you need to know the open, closed lengths, and required force. The force might be the most difficult item. My struts are not labeled. Hopefully yours are. You do need to have a similar force on each arm. Most of the struts I have worked with the rod end is threaded, and I have been able to put my original rod ends on the new strut. IF that is the case, you may not need to remove the pivot hinge rivet. Just un thread the rod, and drill out the body end rivet. If you decide to see if you can unthread it. Make sure not to grab the rod with a wrench were it will slip past the seal, or it is guaranteed to leak oil everywhere.

Sample of a Chicago Screw
https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-44805...348502&sr=8-13


McMaster Carr - Gas struts. Cheaper to buy else where, but their website is excellent to locating what you need.
https://www.mcmaster.com/gas-struts/gas-springs-7/

Good luck, let us know how you plan to proceed.

edit; FYI, it is the same style strut as what is holding your passage door open. You can take it off and look at how the ends are threaded on.

[Bippygma]

Mine gave out on me as well. I ordered the new arm strut on Amazon and had the Mobile RV guy come out and install it. All in was about $200.