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02-24-2016, 07:45 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Livermore
Posts: 4
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Battery disconnect help
I have recently purchased a new 23 MBH and would like to install a battery disconnect. I have searched the site and haven't found the info that I need. I have two 6 volts wired in series. I have already purchased a disconnect switch(Marinco 701). After looking through some posts, I'd like to wire it so that there is still power to the breakaway if I were to forget to turn the battery switch back on from storage. And I will probably wire it to the positive side because although there is a lot of debate, it seems like more people who have mechanical/electronic backgrounds recommend this. When I went to install it, I noticed that in addition to the main wire, there are two smaller wires that connect to the positive side(one with a red connector and one with a yellow). They are both the same size and there is also a small white wire going to the negative. The coach is "solar ready" so I'm assuming that one of the positive wires and the small negative are to charge the battery from solar? What I need to know is if I should leave both small wires attached to the battery and just run the larger one to the switch? And does it matter what gauge wire I use from the switch to the battery? The jumper wire between the two batteries is a 6sae 12" wire but the one I found at Walmart that I was going to use for the switch is a 4sae 24". I didn't want to install it and screw anything up so hopefully someone can help.
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02-24-2016, 07:51 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Kingwood, Texas
Posts: 335
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I installed a Battery disconnect on mine and if you have a Power Tongue Jack wire it into the switch also.
This way to run the jack you have to have the switch on and can't forget to turn it on when you pick it up from storage
__________________
Bruce & Cindy
Rambo & Chuy (Chihuahua's)
2016 Jayco 23RLSW
Blue Ox Sway Pro
2014 Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi
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02-25-2016, 06:57 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Murrieta
Posts: 690
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skilva108, personally I would break the positive side also. When wiring 120 volt ac the hot side is always switched. The ground is never broken. Your 4sae is a heavier gauge than the 6 sae. The lower the number the heavier gauge of wire.
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02-25-2016, 09:19 PM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Livermore
Posts: 4
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Is the 6 safe to use? And do you happen to know about the other wires? Thanks
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02-26-2016, 07:49 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Murrieta
Posts: 690
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skilva108, the 6 is safe to use because that is the size of the existing wiring. #4 is ok also since it is a larger gauge. Never go smaller than the original wiring.
Again, the larger the gauge #, 8,10, etc, the smaller the actual copper wire and therefore less current capacity.
Like TxTwoSome stated, the other wires are probably the power tongue jack if you have one.
My trailer is still on order so I can't look at one to give you a for sure answer.
Wireman
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02-26-2016, 02:34 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: NW Wisconsin
Posts: 363
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I used 6ga wire for my extension also. I elected to put my switch inside the trailer, right next to the converter. That way it is out of the weather and nobody can turn on or off the batteries when I am not around. I used a Blue Seas mini switch and flush mounted it.
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2015 Starcraft Travel Star 299BHU Black Pearl Edition
2011 Jayco X23J (traded in)
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7700 GVWR 3.73 E-locker
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02-26-2016, 05:38 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Los Lunas, New Mexico
Posts: 3,766
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tslarson
I used 6ga wire for my extension also. I elected to put my switch inside the trailer, right next to the converter. That way it is out of the weather and nobody can turn on or off the batteries when I am not around. I used a Blue Seas mini switch and flush mounted it.
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So did you just break the positive incoming line from battery to the converter and install the disconnect there? I like the idea of an inside switch.
Happy RVing,
Jeff
__________________
2018 Eagle HT 26.5 RLDS. SOLD
2009 F150 Supercab UNICORN, 5.4L ,3.73, HD and Max Tow Packages, Timbrens, Bilstein shocks.
Wet bolt kit. Andersen Ultimate 20K hitch. TST 507RV TPMS. Hydro Life HL-200. 16" Goodyear Endurance. Progressive EMS. SteadyFast Stabilizers. Furion backup camera.
Best friend wife, Di, and dog Cooper. RETIRED
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02-26-2016, 06:18 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: NW Wisconsin
Posts: 363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by havnfun
So did you just break the positive incoming line from battery to the converter and install the disconnect there? I like the idea of an inside switch.
Happy RVing,
Jeff
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Yes, very easy install. I removed the incoming 6 ga. wire from the converter, installed it on the switch, added a 12" piece of wire from the switch to the converter.
__________________
2015 Starcraft Travel Star 299BHU Black Pearl Edition
2011 Jayco X23J (traded in)
2013 Ford F150 FX4 SuperCrew 6.2 Max Tow
7700 GVWR 3.73 E-locker
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02-26-2016, 08:30 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Murrieta
Posts: 690
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tslarson, great idea on installing inside. I think they make a switch with a removable key and I may decide to go that route. When I take delivery I'll have to see where the best mounting area will be.
Wireman
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02-26-2016, 09:20 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Los Lunas, New Mexico
Posts: 3,766
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tslarson
Yes, very easy install. I removed the incoming 6 ga. wire from the converter, installed it on the switch, added a 12" piece of wire from the switch to the converter.
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Which brand disconnect switch did you install n where did you get it? I have a "Battery Doctor" from CW but it's not flush mount (go figure).
Happy RVing,
Jeff
__________________
2018 Eagle HT 26.5 RLDS. SOLD
2009 F150 Supercab UNICORN, 5.4L ,3.73, HD and Max Tow Packages, Timbrens, Bilstein shocks.
Wet bolt kit. Andersen Ultimate 20K hitch. TST 507RV TPMS. Hydro Life HL-200. 16" Goodyear Endurance. Progressive EMS. SteadyFast Stabilizers. Furion backup camera.
Best friend wife, Di, and dog Cooper. RETIRED
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02-26-2016, 09:23 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Calgary
Posts: 147
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This may sound stupid, but I just take the fuse out by the battery box and put it in the pass through for safety. That's a fast disconnect.
Just a thought.
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2013 32bhds
2008 F250 Diesel
Reese dual cam (finally dialed in just right)
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02-26-2016, 09:31 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Los Lunas, New Mexico
Posts: 3,766
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ensign
This may sound stupid, but I just take the fuse out by the battery box and put it in the pass through for safety. That's a fast disconnect.
Just a thought.
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You're 100% correct, Ensign, but what fun is that? You don't get to cut, nail, glue, or screw anything.
Happy RVing,
Jeff
__________________
2018 Eagle HT 26.5 RLDS. SOLD
2009 F150 Supercab UNICORN, 5.4L ,3.73, HD and Max Tow Packages, Timbrens, Bilstein shocks.
Wet bolt kit. Andersen Ultimate 20K hitch. TST 507RV TPMS. Hydro Life HL-200. 16" Goodyear Endurance. Progressive EMS. SteadyFast Stabilizers. Furion backup camera.
Best friend wife, Di, and dog Cooper. RETIRED
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02-27-2016, 06:09 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: NW Wisconsin
Posts: 363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by havnfun
Which brand disconnect switch did you install n where did you get it? I have a "Battery Doctor" from CW but it's not flush mount (go figure).
Happy RVing,
Jeff
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The brand is Blue Seas, it is one of their mini switches. They are available in single or dual versions. You can surface, flush, or back mount the switch.
One thing to mention is that if you were installing a dual battery switch this location may take a lot of extra wiring as you would need to run a additional 6ga. wire from the second battery to the switch. For this case I would have installed the switch in the forward storage compartment.
Robot Check (switch link)
__________________
2015 Starcraft Travel Star 299BHU Black Pearl Edition
2011 Jayco X23J (traded in)
2013 Ford F150 FX4 SuperCrew 6.2 Max Tow
7700 GVWR 3.73 E-locker
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