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Old 06-10-2021, 10:19 AM   #1
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Battery life boondocks

2018 octane 222.
Fridge is 1.4 amps.
Bed is 12 amps putting UP.
Battery is interstate hd-24- dp, 64 amp hours. As I read it, not even 3 days ? Thats not counting occasionally using led lights. Etc.
Anyone have real life experience on battery life.
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Old 06-10-2021, 10:48 AM   #2
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A 64 amp battery has 32 amps available before damaging the battery. When New, after that it will tail off a bit each year.
1.4 plus the CO/LP detector will run it down in 24 hours or less. Then add some water pump uses, lights, etc.
My 100 amp battery is one night, period. On top of that my fridge does not pull 12 volts on LP gas.
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Old 06-10-2021, 11:32 AM   #3
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Was hoping duty cycles would come into play. Bed is 12 amps, but only for 2 minutes. Can't find if fridge is 1.4 constantly or only when cooling.
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Old 06-10-2021, 12:59 PM   #4
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Get a pair of real deep cycle batteries. A pair of Duracell EGC2 will be less than $250, and should last years if treated properly. You could pay a little more for AGM, and have less maintenance to deal with.
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Old 06-10-2021, 01:33 PM   #5
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More like $300 plus. Or I could buy a solar setup for $600
But I'm looking for more like Roger said. "My battery lasts me....."
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Old 06-10-2021, 02:34 PM   #6
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Our TT is about the same size as yours. We do not have the power bed, as others said your moving it for only a few minutes, so 12amps/60min= .2amps/min. If we were not careful we could go 48 hours on a single cheap group 24 battery with incandescent lights. Swapped out to LEDs and we could go 4 days?? on a single charge and being very conservative.

Couple things we do, is to turn on the wall switch for the ceiling lights. Then turn them all off at the light fixture. When we need light we turn on the one or two that are required, verses having all 12 on. The awning light is kept off. We normally cook outside, but this keeps us from needing to turn on the exhaust fan, or light. We also tend to extend the awning and slideout while we are still connected to the TV, and stay attached to the 7pin as long as possible.

If we do not need it, it gets turned off.

If it is a really dark night, we will burn a candle lantern. Usually we leave it on the stove top. Just enough light to walk in from the fire to retrieve a snack or drink.
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Old 06-10-2021, 04:22 PM   #7
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Jagiven, the bed down can stay all week. The fridge is what suprised me. Never thought running on gas would kill the battery in a day.
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Old 06-10-2021, 04:31 PM   #8
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I suspect the 1.4 amps is only when it is igniting and holding the solenoid valve open. I don't think I have ever measured my actual amp draw.

It is way to hot to take any measurements today. I heard me might drop down to the upper 80's next week.
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Old 06-10-2021, 05:25 PM   #9
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Same here in buffalo .
Our plan is 2,3 days in a spot while traveling. But we have a one time family trip to a state park,no hookups. So I hate the NEW BATTERIES, SOLAR PANEL, SMALL GENERATOR IDEAS. Electric dump valves was enough. Think I'll disconnect, see parasitic voltage drop. Then run fridge on gas and see that.
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Old 06-10-2021, 07:20 PM   #10
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Turn of the television antenna signal amplifier if you have one in the trailer. That'll save a bit of juice.
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Old 06-10-2021, 07:38 PM   #11
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Thanks Bill, I do keep it off. Now looking for how long fridge holds cold.
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Old 06-11-2021, 08:50 AM   #12
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For about $500 you can buy a 100 a/h lithium battery that will last years and you can use almost all 100 amp/hrs NO BRAINER
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Old 06-30-2021, 12:46 PM   #13
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There is much more to this subject.
You have draw 24/7 from one or more CO detectors, fridge, radio power that holds stations, remote control for side outs, awnings, etc.. Each of these, for the most part, uses very little power. BUT, you need to consider they are always on. The fridge control board is always on. May only draw .8 amps... But multiple that by 24 and you get 19.2 amps! Add CO detector and the rest and then add in your lights. It's easy to see how you can take a typical RV charged battery to 50% (essentially dead) in one day.

What you need to do is buy yourself a good meter that reads amp draw. Measure from the battery with nothing turned on... Just what the rv is using on its own. Then turn on each item and measure again. Write this stuff down. Know that your power center/ converter is also using power that's why I measure from battery.

Write everything down. Them look at the real battery rating(if you can find it). Will be listed as xx amps at 20/amp hrs. That's how many amps the battery can supply when drawing a 20 amp load.
Many RV/Marine deep cycle batteries are not true deep cycle and can only be drawn down to 50% after which you start to damage them. I run 2 GC (golf cart) 6 volt batteries. True 100 amp capacity at 20amp/hr rate. I can go 3 days...period! That's with all led lighting, radio amp off, fridge on propane, no heat, etc.. Throw in the heater a few times at night and I have to charge up each day!!

So a typical RV deep cycle is only going to give you 25 to 45 usable amps of power for most group 24 or 27 batteries. Rarely are they tested or rated properly! So buyer beware.

Agree with previous post... Go with a 100 amp lithium and then have 80% to 100% of the battery available. They are true deep cycle! That's my next purchase.

Hope this helps....
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Old 06-30-2021, 08:54 PM   #14
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I have 2- 100 amp batteries and it will last about 12 hours running residential refrigerator, and a couple LED lights. It goes down proportionally depending on how much other items are used like water pump or refrigerator ice maker.
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Old 07-02-2021, 07:43 PM   #15
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We have enough room for three batteries.
So that’s why we added the third one to our camper.
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