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Old 07-10-2015, 01:01 PM   #1
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Battery main fuse power question

Been getting use to my 26bh and noticed battery goes dead after 24 hr. Tt is not plugged in. I pull main fuse at battery thought it was to cut all 12v power but radio and co2 detector still powered and range hood and lights. If this is normal I will have to put a battery cut off switch at batt. Charges good when plugged in.

Also my fridge won't run plugged in at home 15amp. I Get a ac heater fail code from fridge light ? Can it run on 120-15amp or is it 30 amp only ? Runs fine on LP. Checked all gfi plugs and also plugged fridge in directly to 120v home power still same thing. Checked fuses on ac heater circuit board as well.
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Old 07-10-2015, 01:11 PM   #2
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If the radio and CO detector are still powered and you are not plugged in to shore power you DID NOT pull the main fuse. Did someone attach more wiring to the battery? At most there should only be 3 wires at the positive terminal of the battery. One for the camper power w/ a 30 amp main fuse, one for the breakaway switch w/no fuse, and maybe an electric tongue jack.

The refrigerator should run from a 110V 15 amp circuit just fine. How long a cord are you using to power it?
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Old 07-10-2015, 01:15 PM   #3
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Just the cord from rv and a plug adapter. Only one fuse at batt. And only the wires you say. Tongue lift brake switch + and - . It hasn't been messed with that I know of. Dealer serviced since new and hardly used ?
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Old 07-10-2015, 01:21 PM   #4
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There is 30 main and at bottom is in line fuse for tounge lift.yellow/ black for brakes safety switch. + lead goes right from batt. to back of tt to fuse box I guess. Maybe I will try the main breaker as a cut off instead of the fuse ?
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Old 07-10-2015, 01:37 PM   #5
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I would say the if you disconnected the white wire from the battery your radio etc would loose power
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Old 07-10-2015, 01:47 PM   #6
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Was your TT on shore power when all the 12v things were active and fuse pulled? If so the converter makes 12v DC for that side of the house and provides 110v AC to the rest of the TT.
The fridge message sounds like the electric heating element has failed. Both of our TT's fridges ran fine in a 15A circuit, not enough to power the A/C tho as it needed a min of 20A.
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Old 07-10-2015, 01:48 PM   #7
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Ya it dose the negative off powers off everything. But the guy told me the 30 amp shuts everything down. Just threw me for a loop while I'm trying to figure this thing out. It's simple just new for me. Little help here is great to figure things out . You guys are a good help.
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Old 07-10-2015, 01:53 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedHorse1 View Post
Was your TT on shore power when all the 12v things were active and fuse pulled? If so the converter makes 12v DC for that side of the house and provides 110v AC to the rest of the TT.
The fridge message sounds like the electric heating element has failed. Both of our TT's fridges ran fine in a 15A circuit, not enough to power the A/C tho as it needed a min of 20A.
No was unplugged that's why battery was dead. Charges fine when plugged in would never know. Pulled fuses out at panel and red light stays on for c02 beside fuse holder. Just on batt.Power no shore power. Maybe have to put power cut off switch at batt.
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Old 07-10-2015, 01:54 PM   #9
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The 30amp fuse you pulled is for your tongue jack. The red rubber cover (attached to front trailer frame) on the left of your photo is the 30 amp auto resetting breaker for your trailer.
You will need to install a battery disconnect or you will have to disconnect wires at the battery terminal to disconnect the trailer draw.

Fridge sounds faulty and should go in for warranty. Something wrong with the AC side of things.

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Old 07-10-2015, 01:57 PM   #10
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Subaru297 sounds bang on!!!! That's what I'm thinking now as I look at things . Cheers.
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Old 07-10-2015, 10:17 PM   #11
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Did I miss why OP's battery would go dead in 24 hours?
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Old 07-11-2015, 07:02 AM   #12
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Also had the pin pulled for the brakes on the tounge so brakes where applied all the time. Pin is back in and batt seems fine now been over night. I will just keep an eye on it.
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Old 07-11-2015, 07:53 AM   #13
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Pullin the PIN for the brakes would be a big NO-NO for me. Each BRAKE MAGNET will pull around 3AMPS each with the 12VDC applied from your trailer battery.

There is also a big change you will destroy your electric brake magnets - they are not free... The electric brakes are not designed for continuous use like that.

I would definitely do a complete electric brake inspection since you have done that all night long.

Another issue is with the battery being run down below the 50% charge state. This starts a internal process inside you battery and will eventually need to be replaced. You should never let your deep cycle batteries get below 12.0VDC and not be re-charged right away. The first signs is poor performance of not holding the charge like they used to and the worse case thing is they will short out between the cell cores which requires replacement. batteries are not cheap either... I lost one of my four original batteries in 2009 by not having the smart mode charger and it boiled out its fluids and shorted out its cells inside. I then replaced the converter/charger unit for a PD9260C and my remaining three batteries have been doing great since then. They are just now starting to fall back abit on performance after 6 years of use. We do alot of camping off the power grid and do the usually charge cycle of 50% to 90% for 12 or times each morning during each camping trip.

Got to do what you need to do to respect the batteries... They are your lifeline when camping off the power grid. I watch my homemade DC MONITOR PANEL like a hawk when camping off the power grid. When they hit the 12.0VDC point I will shut down using them. This took some planning in the beginning on how we use our batteries and it always occurs now at around 8AM the next morning when it is time to re-charge the batteries when allowed by the generator run time restriction in place where we are camping at.

My next step is to install some solar panels to keep me from having to run the generator so long each morning. Once I get past the high DC current demand when first starting charging then the solar panels can do their job the rest of the HIGH SUN day. I will still have to run the generator for about one hour if I had a couple of solar panels installed. Room on my OFF-ROAD POPUP camper roof for solar is going to somewhat of a challenge due to weight of the added panels.

I'm rambling on here haha...
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Old 07-11-2015, 08:04 AM   #14
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That is true about batteries I took it out right away and charged it full. I am using battery out of my boat till I get one for tt. Going a 27 or 29 size battery I have 27 in my boat now I will use them until I need both at same time ! Need to see how to mount 2 where this one is now. Anyone with some pics or ideas would be helpful.
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Old 07-13-2015, 08:07 AM   #15
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Here are our batteries on a 28BHS. Probably the same layout as yours.
These are two 6volt batteries though. Same footprint as a group 24 I think. I am not sure two group 27's would fit like this.

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Old 07-13-2015, 08:25 PM   #16
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Very clean job there Subaru297!! I was thinking the only way I could get 2 -27s or 2-29s is to move the two angle iron pieces going across the frame. They are welded just for the batteries I think? not for structural support? Move them wider and have batteries run front to back ? I will just run 1 for now but thinking of this mod once I see if it's ok to move bars apart.
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