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Old 07-10-2015, 02:01 PM   #1
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Battery main fuse power question

Been getting use to my 26bh and noticed battery goes dead after 24 hr. Tt is not plugged in. I pull main fuse at battery thought it was to cut all 12v power but radio and co2 detector still powered and range hood and lights. If this is normal I will have to put a battery cut off switch at batt. Charges good when plugged in.

Also my fridge won't run plugged in at home 15amp. I Get a ac heater fail code from fridge light ? Can it run on 120-15amp or is it 30 amp only ? Runs fine on LP. Checked all gfi plugs and also plugged fridge in directly to 120v home power still same thing. Checked fuses on ac heater circuit board as well.
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Old 07-10-2015, 02:11 PM   #2
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If the radio and CO detector are still powered and you are not plugged in to shore power you DID NOT pull the main fuse. Did someone attach more wiring to the battery? At most there should only be 3 wires at the positive terminal of the battery. One for the camper power w/ a 30 amp main fuse, one for the breakaway switch w/no fuse, and maybe an electric tongue jack.

The refrigerator should run from a 110V 15 amp circuit just fine. How long a cord are you using to power it?
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Old 07-10-2015, 02:15 PM   #3
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Just the cord from rv and a plug adapter. Only one fuse at batt. And only the wires you say. Tongue lift brake switch + and - . It hasn't been messed with that I know of. Dealer serviced since new and hardly used ?
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Old 07-10-2015, 02:21 PM   #4
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There is 30 main and at bottom is in line fuse for tounge lift.yellow/ black for brakes safety switch. + lead goes right from batt. to back of tt to fuse box I guess. Maybe I will try the main breaker as a cut off instead of the fuse ?
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Old 07-10-2015, 02:37 PM   #5
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I would say the if you disconnected the white wire from the battery your radio etc would loose power
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Old 07-10-2015, 02:47 PM   #6
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Was your TT on shore power when all the 12v things were active and fuse pulled? If so the converter makes 12v DC for that side of the house and provides 110v AC to the rest of the TT.
The fridge message sounds like the electric heating element has failed. Both of our TT's fridges ran fine in a 15A circuit, not enough to power the A/C tho as it needed a min of 20A.
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Old 07-10-2015, 02:48 PM   #7
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Ya it dose the negative off powers off everything. But the guy told me the 30 amp shuts everything down. Just threw me for a loop while I'm trying to figure this thing out. It's simple just new for me. Little help here is great to figure things out . You guys are a good help.
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Old 07-10-2015, 02:53 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RedHorse1 View Post
Was your TT on shore power when all the 12v things were active and fuse pulled? If so the converter makes 12v DC for that side of the house and provides 110v AC to the rest of the TT.
The fridge message sounds like the electric heating element has failed. Both of our TT's fridges ran fine in a 15A circuit, not enough to power the A/C tho as it needed a min of 20A.
No was unplugged that's why battery was dead. Charges fine when plugged in would never know. Pulled fuses out at panel and red light stays on for c02 beside fuse holder. Just on batt.Power no shore power. Maybe have to put power cut off switch at batt.
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Old 07-10-2015, 02:54 PM   #9
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The 30amp fuse you pulled is for your tongue jack. The red rubber cover (attached to front trailer frame) on the left of your photo is the 30 amp auto resetting breaker for your trailer.
You will need to install a battery disconnect or you will have to disconnect wires at the battery terminal to disconnect the trailer draw.

Fridge sounds faulty and should go in for warranty. Something wrong with the AC side of things.

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Old 07-10-2015, 02:57 PM   #10
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Subaru297 sounds bang on!!!! That's what I'm thinking now as I look at things . Cheers.
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