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Old 04-30-2018, 06:22 PM   #1
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Black tank flush.

Does the Black Tank flush require the pressure regulator as the city water connection does?
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Old 04-30-2018, 06:33 PM   #2
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Yes and no. I would assume that the plumbing for it has the same ratings that the rest of the onboard plumbing does. And I therefore donít want to damage it.

I use a splitter at the water supply. Pressure regulator, splitter, filter on one side, potable water hose. My tank rinse hose goes on the other side, then a back flow preventer.
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Old 04-30-2018, 06:49 PM   #3
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In theory, the restriction in the lines and nozzle could cause the running pressure to be high enough to cause concern. Remember, the fittings and anti-syphon valve are the same quality as the rest of your plumbing. As such, if you are in a place where you're concerned about high pressure, and your flushing at a full hookup sight, I would use an adjustable pressure regulator, and set it while the water is running.

Personally, I rarely use a regulator on sight for regular water I've never used one at a dump station for the flush.
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Old 04-30-2018, 07:10 PM   #4
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The flush doesn’t have a shut-off valve at the far end like a sink so I’d expect a regulator on the flush is not required unless the CG pressure is extreme. That said, similar to “Beach”, my water setup has the reg is at the CG bib followed by hose close to my water cabinet where I have 2 “Y” splitters connected by a back flow preventer. One side supplies the 5th and the side protected by the backflow supplies the flush and my “pump” on the sewer line (a Sewer Solution).
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Old 05-01-2018, 08:53 AM   #5
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Since the black tank flush is not a closed system (so to speak), I don't use a pressure regulator. I want as much pressure as I can get to wash out the "stuff". Like Redhorse, I use the Sewer Solution so one side of the Y has a regulator and the other side does not. On the side that doesn't have the regulator, I put another Y and on that, one hose goes to the SS and the other hose to the flush. Sounds kinda sick doesn't it?
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Old 05-01-2018, 09:15 AM   #6
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Unless you have over 150psi coming out of the bib..you don't need a regulator to flush the black tank. The plumbing in newer units are stronger than you think. When I dropped my black tank last year to replace the sensors, I was impressed.
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Old 05-01-2018, 11:06 AM   #7
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Trout, you make a good point about having pressure at the SS and flush line. I’ve just got mine set up so the regulator is first thing in the food chain.
I find it’s easier to leave behind that way :-(
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Old 05-01-2018, 06:34 PM   #8
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However, with the above posts, make sure you have the black tank drain open. I was told that if you flow water thru the rinse with nothing open you might blow a seal from over pressure in the black tank.
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Old 05-01-2018, 06:55 PM   #9
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However, with the above posts, make sure you have the black tank drain open. I was told that if you flow water thru the rinse with nothing open you might blow a seal from over pressure in the black tank.


Thereís a vent pipe in the tanks so it should t be an issue
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Old 05-01-2018, 06:55 PM   #10
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However, with the above posts, make sure you have the black tank drain open. I was told that if you flow water thru the rinse with nothing open you might blow a seal from over pressure in the black tank.
I donít think thatís correct as the black has a vent to the roof. The danger is filling the black and the ďwaterĒ has no place to go but up thru the toilet or up the vent (donít ask how I know this). That point made, I routinely close the dump while the flush is running but try to remain conscious of the level. The point is to dislodge the ďbitsĒ clinging inside.
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Old 05-01-2018, 07:54 PM   #11
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All the tanks are vented. If they were not then there is a good chance you could collapse them when you open the valves to dump them. They would also gurgle like crazy when you are running water down the drain.
The water piping is pex on most of the trailers these days too. When we test pex systems at work we pump the pressure to 150-160psi so the piping/fittings can handle it but not to say i would want to do that on a trailer with all the faucets and valves hooked up. Could be asking for trouble. Like others have said, the black tank flush is open so you would never get that much pressure on the pipework and its nice to have it spraying in there pretty hard. I usually let the tank build up to 2/3 full and pull the valve. Repeat while you are still getting "stuff" coming out Then leave some water in there to keep it moist. Love that word
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Old 05-01-2018, 07:55 PM   #12
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What he said ⬆️
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Old 06-23-2018, 02:47 PM   #13
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FYI, I was reading thru some posts, (since this post) I can across a member that "blew" his black tank due to running the flush with nothing open. Plus there is a warning on my flush to have the drain open when using it. You guys better check before you blow the tank, the vent on the top is either not enough or when the fluid gets to that point it plugs it....one guy it was about $900 to replace/fix.


From Flyrotor:: Replaced the black tank that was ruptured when I was flushing the tank and was distracted, causing the tank to burst, holy sh##, what a pain in the @##. $925.00 later, all is as good as new.
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Old 06-23-2018, 03:04 PM   #14
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The horror! You must have been a hit at the dump station. =8-O
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Old 06-23-2018, 03:05 PM   #15
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The horror! You must have been a hit at the dump station. =8-O

Not, I, poor Flyrotor.
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Old 06-24-2018, 11:49 AM   #16
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Thats why you should only 2/3 fill it. Good chance he had a load of floaters plug the vent because he left it running too long. Its not the job you want to leave to chance. Keep your eye on it and you will be fine.
Wouldnt like to have to clean up that mess!
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Old 06-24-2018, 02:14 PM   #17
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Just wondering, can you run water down the vent pipe to clear it out? Is it pvc or what?
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Old 06-24-2018, 02:17 PM   #18
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If you take the cap of the vent you can run a hose in there or a plumbing snake.
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