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Old 08-25-2019, 07:25 AM   #1
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Blow-out plug with schrader valve

I have a new blow-out fitting that I got from Ace Hardware. It has a tire air valve in it. It includes a valve core, just like a tire valve. Won’t this this work better if I remove the valve core so that it will move air faster through the system?
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Old 08-25-2019, 08:31 AM   #2
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My blow out has a quick connect for my air line. I set my pressure regulator to about 40psi and go around the faucets and low point drains until I’ve gotten the water out. For me it’s not a matter of volume.
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Old 08-25-2019, 08:31 AM   #3
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mine works fine with the core in.

Just remember don't connect the compressor until you have an outlet (faucet) open somewhere.
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Old 08-26-2019, 08:56 AM   #4
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No, the valve core stem won't restrict airflow. It's there to keep air from flowing back out the valve stem when not adding air to a tire.

-Michael
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Old 08-28-2019, 08:47 AM   #5
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winterize with compressed air.

Quote:
Originally Posted by michael.g View Post
No, the valve core stem won't restrict airflow. It's there to keep air from flowing back out the valve stem when not adding air to a tire.

-Michael
Your city water inlet line has a check valve installed (this prevents your water pump from pumping water out your city water connection when you are dry-camping). Therefore your valve stem core is not needed.

- Drain your freshwater tank, then run the pump until it looses suction.

- gravity drain as much water out of your system as possible by opening both your lowpoint drains, remove the drain plug on your water heater, open the bypass valve on your water heater and open all the faucets. I usually let mine drain over night.

- reinstall the hot water heater plug, shut the low point drains, shut all the faucets. leave the hot water heater bypassed.

- install your airsource to your city water inlet and pressurize your system (40-to 50psig). Your hotwater heater will store quite a bit of air.

- Starting with your low point drains (one at a time), open them until no more water comes out. You may have to shut it and repressurize with air again.

- Repeat this process, one drain/faucet at a time starting from the lowest, until no more water comes out. Don't forget the toilet and outdoor shower.

- Then dump RV anti-freeze down all the drains and the toilet to keep the water out of the traps and lubricate your waste tank drain valves.

- I also keep all my faucets and low point drains open, my shower wands disconnected, and my hot water tank plug removed all winter. Any remaing water can then evaporate over the fall/winter.
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Old 08-28-2019, 10:06 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjpolsin View Post
Your city water inlet line has a check valve installed (this prevents your water pump from pumping water out your city water connection when you are dry-camping). Therefore your valve stem core is not needed.
Actually, one reason to keep that valve core IN would be in a failure of that check valve. If it gets stuck open, and your water pump runs, water will shoot out of the city fill. In a pinch, you can screw in that blow out plug, and the valve core will allow the water pump to work normal, and you won't lose water.
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Old 08-29-2019, 04:36 AM   #7
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I have used the same thing for years without any issues.
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