Braking - how to check effectiveness

[bono]

Thanks! Just checked this on the dirt earlier today when I was dropping off the trailer to the storage place. Even with the highest power (level 13) on the controller (Tekonsha p2) the wheels are not locking up. The brakes are just about the lock up the wheels, but cannot reach this point. When driving I cannot really go higher than 10-11 level on the brake controller, because the feeling is like the trailer would rip off the hitch

Is it absolutely needed that the wheels are locking up?

[CampNow]

IMO, if you have brake issues, the very first thing to check is the electrical, before proceeding to check the mechanicals. An electrical check takes all of 5 minutes. It's impossible to get proper braking (even with brand new, properly operating brake mechanicals) without proper voltage/current.

You brake controller should be able to provide 12 vdc to each brake when its set to its maximum setting. I find it easier to just use a clamp-on ammeter and clamp around one of the two wires (either one) that enter each brake drum. You should read close to 3 amps at each brake drum with the brake controller set to its maximum setting.

[CampNow]

Originally Posted by bono

Thanks! Just checked this on the dirt earlier today when I was dropping off the trailer to the storage place. Even with the highest power (level 13) on the controller (Tekonsha p2) the wheels are not locking up. The brakes are just about the lock up the wheels, but cannot reach this point. When driving I cannot really go higher than 10-11 level on the brake controller, because the feeling is like the trailer would rip off the hitch

Is it absolutely needed that the wheels are locking up?

If this is the case, I'd say your brakes are probably operating around 50-60%. If your brakes were capable of operating at 100%, you would be able to easily lock-up all wheels at 20 mph on dirt. One things for sure, if they won't lock-up on dirt, they will not lock-up on pavement.

For normal, non-emergency braking, 50-60% is probably fine. However, if you're in a situation where you're applying the brakes in an all-out emergency you'll definitely be wishing you had more.

Your choice.

[bono]

Well, brakes are very important and I will not ignore this. I will have somebody to check the electrical.

Thanks!

[Sk734]

New brakes need to be burnished to break them in so they work at full capacity. Look up the process. It requires a number of stops at certain speeds. Good luck.

[therealsafetya]

Does your brake controller have a "light electric" and "heavy electric" mode? If so, try the "heavy electric" mode.

My truck has both, and on "heavy electric" I am only running my gain at 3.0 and can get my wheels to the locking point on gravel, even when fully loaded and with a full fresh tank.

[kblast523]

Originally Posted by CampNow

you should be able to immediately lock up, at will, all (2/4/6) wheels on gravel or dirt---at 20-25 mph. IMO, if you can't (with the brake controller adjusted to max), you've got a problem. The problem could be low voltage (less than 12 vdc) to your brakes (brake controller or wiring issues), grease contaminated brake shoes, or brake mechanicals (magnets, adjustment, etc.).

Be careful if you try locking up your brakes on pavement. Doesn't take much to flat spot the tires.

I purchased a 2015 F150 with factory brake controller and had a JayFlight SLX 185RB. Brake controller required 7.5 brake input. I traded to a bigger trailer, had to adjust down to 4.0 input. With my newest tt, I had to put input all the way up to 8.5 (out of 10) in order to get adequate brake performance. Same tv, different tt. My driveway in 120 ft long and drops 50 feet in elevation, brakes are critical, or everything becomes a watercraft.

[Fleetman]

Set brake controller to mid point, go about 20 mph and manually brake. Should slow down. Adjust until it locks trailer wheels. Back off one number and you are done.

[DJMark]

This was a great thread! You guys helped me get my brake controller adjusted perfectly and my Tahoe brakes like there's no trailer attached now!

THANK YOU!!

[namusmc65]

I have a 2014 Jayco Eagle and just had my unit serviced top to bottom. New my brakes were getting pretty worn and they confirmed this. Had new brakes put on and also new wheel bearings while they were at it. When I got ready to leave the lot, I applied manual brakes and had basically no braking. The mechanic came out and tried it and said the manual braking would not work on the new brakes. Tested with the truck braking and said everything was fine. Said these new brakes were going to have to burn in to become effective. I drove home about 70 miles total and had adequate braking using truck brakes. However, I made a sharp right turn and snagged the break away switch and pulled it out. I felt a bump and thought I had hit a pot hole. I drove 2 miles down the road and a guy pulled up beside me and flagged me over. Said he notice smoke starting to come from left wheels. Sure enough, slight smoke was coming from that side. I waited until it had cooled down after I could not see a probem and started to pull out. This time the trailer brakes were definitely working! That's when I realized what might have happened and saw the switch unplugged. Plugged it back in and had excellent braking going the rest of the way home. My question is since I pulled it all of two miles not knowing the brakes were engaged(I measured the distance) was that enough to do any damage or did we just burn the brakes in?

[jimcisme1]

Actually, I don't think you want your brakes locking up. If they do, you stand a great chance of your trailer jackknifing. Your trailer brakes should help stop your trailer but not lock up.

[bap]

Originally Posted by jimcisme1

Actually, I don't think you want your brakes locking up. If they do, you stand a great chance of your trailer jackknifing. Your trailer brakes should help stop your trailer but not lock up.

Usually Jacknifing occurs when the TV stops quicker than what you are towing and the trailer pushes the truck around.

[CampNow]

Originally Posted by jimcisme1

Actually, I don't think you want your brakes locking up . . . Your trailer brakes should help stop your trailer but not lock up.

I don't believe anyone is saying you should adjust your brakes so they lock-up under normal or emergency operation.

However, if you test your brakes (in a safe, secluded area) and they're not capable of locking-up (especially on dirt), then your trailer brakes are not operating at 100% capability. For some this is important info to know. For others, not so much.

[Jayflight Canuck]

Hi Bono


There is usually a (+/-) adjustment on your brake controller to increase or decrease the voltage to your brakes. It is possible your brake controller is set too low for the weight of your trailer. Our trailer brakes will stop the trailer and truck if moving slow. I would check this first since it is an easy thing to check and easy to adjust.

[Hayner]

On non-slippery surface, adjust trailer brake to stop your vehicle from 5 mph to 0, but not enough to lock brakes. Your vehicle must represent 75% of your overall stopping ability. If you over-adjust the trailer brakes, you will wear them out quickly or even burn them up (and in some instances start a fire) going down long steep grades. The safest practice is to drive as if you do not have brakes on your trailer. Using vehicle brakes combined with downshifting transmission are most reliable.

[jasonmiddlebrooks]

I am not a fan of adjusting gain on the controller until the brakes lock up when manually engaged. I like to run about 15-20 mph on a flat surface and make sure the brakes “tug” on the truck when manually engaged.