Braking - how to check effectiveness

bono · 06-14-2018, 05:12 PM

Hello,

I just picked up the trailer from a shop where I had the bearings packed. I asked them before to check the brakes when working on the bearings.

The guy said that the brakes look like new, which is a subjective assessment, but anyway I have over 10k towing miles already logged so I was expecting some wear.

After hitching up I used the manual lever (Prodigy P2) to engage the trailer brakes only when towing slowly. The trailer definitely slowed down, but not as much as I expected. I thought that the wheels would almost block (this was on asphalt, I did not have a chance to test it on gravel).

Question: is there any way to check how effective the brakes are?

Thanks!

nunyadamn · 06-14-2018, 05:18 PM

I probably can't answer your exact question, but when I first bought my trailer I asked the same question to the dealer. They had me get in, activate the manual trailer brake lever and put it in gear and take my foot off the brakes. Then they had me adjust the trailer brake power up until the trailer stopped the truck. I wasn't really moving, just slightly idling in the parking lot.

I have never really had to adjust them since. I have over 10k like you and when I go down a hill or have to make a quick stop, they stop me pretty good.

bono · 06-14-2018, 05:44 PM

OK, so the trailer should stop the towing vehicle (when moving slowly). I do not think this is possible with my brakes.

If this is not how my brakes are working, what I can do about it? Is this electrical problem or mechanical? They just did the bearings, so they would notice that there is something mechanically wrong.

Magnolia Tom · 06-14-2018, 05:52 PM

How did the brakes work before the repacking? Did they remove the bearings and hand pack or did they use the ez lube? Did the check every brake assembly?

I had breaking issues that I thought was a bad electrical connection. I fixed the corroded connection with no real change. Then, I checked shoes (only one wheel on each side). Turns out I should’ve check both wheels on each side as the ones I didn’t check were covered with grease. I ended up getting all 4 brake assemblies replaced and new grease seals.

If going less than 10-15 mph, manually applying the trailer brakes should stop you.

Murff · 06-14-2018, 05:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Magnolia Tom

How did the brakes work before the repacking? Did they remove the bearings and hand pack or did they use the ez lube? Did the check every brake assembly?

I had breaking issues that I thought was a bad electrical connection. I fixed the corroded connection with no real change. Then, I checked shoes (only one wheel on each side). Turns out I should’ve check both wheels on each side as the ones I didn’t check were covered with grease. I ended up getting all 4 brake assemblies replaced and new grease seals.

If going less than 10-15 mph, manually applying the trailer brakes should stop you.

I agree!

Murff

bono · 06-14-2018, 06:03 PM

I did not notice any difference with braking between before and after. My driving style generally does not involve a lot of braking.

The bearings were hand packed.

Another thing that I recall - when it rains (which is not that often here in CA), I feel that the brakes are more grabby. Maybe this is electrical problem and moisture helps with getting the signal to the trailer brakes? I do not know, if this makes any sense.

CampNow · 06-14-2018, 06:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bono

. . . Question: is there any way to check how effective the brakes are?

Thanks!

We've dealt with various braking issues on our last 3 travel trailers. After working through these issues and experiencing "proper" braking, we've come to the conclusion, that at a minimum, you should be able to immediately lock up, at will, all (2/4/6) wheels on gravel or dirt---at 20-25 mph. IMO, if you can't (with the brake controller adjusted to max), you've got a problem. The problem could be low voltage (less than 12 vdc) to your brakes (brake controller or wiring issues), grease contaminated brake shoes, or brake mechanicals (magnets, adjustment, etc.).

Be careful if you try locking up your brakes on pavement. Doesn't take much to flat spot the tires.

**Midnightmoon** · 06-14-2018, 06:43 PM

Bono, I would start by personally removing each wheel and check for grease contamination. If not, then you could start checking your electrical connections. I would eliminate the grease possibility first though. I've heard of it happening even with new trailers. And not doubting the shop you use, but something like this is best to confirm for yourself.

jimp · 06-14-2018, 06:43 PM

Drum brakes when wet will be "grabby", just the nature of the beast. Try and anticipate braking situations and prepare by applying the brakes to "dry" the brake drums/shoes so they will hopefully work better BEFORE you really need them.

bono · 06-14-2018, 11:19 PM

Thanks Guys! I will start the investigation.

CoCanCarv · 06-14-2018, 11:35 PM

Look up your break unit on YouTube the manufacturer has videos that show you how.

Flyrotor · 06-14-2018, 11:50 PM

You can also manually adjust the brakes, there are several you tube videos that explain the process, most likely you do not have self adjusting brakes.

Just FYI, Manually adjusting the brakes is done at each wheel, not at the electric controller.

THe controller only adjusts the electric gain (strength of signal sent to the magnet)

CoCanCarv · 06-15-2018, 12:33 AM

Look up your break unit on YouTube the manufacturer has videos that show you how.

bono · 06-15-2018, 10:50 AM

One more question - when the shop did the bearings pack, would it be possible that they assembled something incorrectly around the brakes (magnets, etc.)?

bap · 06-15-2018, 11:28 AM

If they had the drums off to repack wheel bearings, then they would have backed off the adjusters for the shoes to do so. Very likely they did not adjust them back up after finishing which will give you poor braking power.

bono · 06-15-2018, 11:41 AM

Thanks. Wouldn't I have some kind of auto adjusting brakes on 2017 model trailer?

bap · 06-15-2018, 12:18 PM

I am not sure, but if it does have automatic adjusters, it could take a lot of applying and off cycles to get them back to where they should be. The automatic adjusters only move a very tiny amount each time the brake is put on.

bono · 06-18-2018, 11:10 PM

UPDATE

I towed the trailer around 100 miles this weekend, including some hills on the way (highway 17 towards Santa Cruz, CA for those who know the neighborhood). Brakes gained the power - self adjusting feature?

I did not really managed to lock the trailer wheels on the asphalt (just did not want to damage my Chinese bombs), but the brakes are really sharp now and I believe I could lock the wheels, when needed.

Thanks guys for your help!

bap · 06-19-2018, 05:22 AM

Glad the brakes got better. Sounds like they adjusted up.

CampNow · 06-19-2018, 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bono

UPDATE

I towed the trailer around 100 miles this weekend, including some hills on the way (highway 17 towards Santa Cruz, CA for those who know the neighborhood). Brakes gained the power - self adjusting feature?

I did not really managed to lock the trailer wheels on the asphalt (just did not want to damage my Chinese bombs), but the brakes are really sharp now and I believe I could lock the wheels, when needed.

Thanks guys for your help!

It's possible the brakes self-adjusted during your drive. However, it's probably more likely they simply starting operating better once they warmed up a bit. Drum brakes are always a bit anemic when cold.

As for checking your brakes, I'd suggest finding a secluded dirt road (less gravel is better) to check whether you can quickly lock up all the wheels at 20 mph. It's much safer than trying this on pavement. On dirt you can make repeated stops while adjusting the brake controller without worrying about damaging the tires or something else. Make sure every wheel is braking properly.

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