can I run A/C on household plugs

timnsusie · 09-01-2017, 10:43 AM

Can I run my jayco travel trailer a/c plugged into regular household outlet ?

bansai · 09-01-2017, 10:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by timnsusie

Can I run my jayco travel trailer a/c plugged into regular household outlet ?

I do it sometimes. I just have the standard AC. If you have the upgraded 15K BTU model, you might end up tripping your breaker in the house. Obviously you won't want to be running much else.

It's also important to use the proper sized extension cord so you don't overheat it, and keep an eye on it until you're confident it isn't getting too hot. I've seen people use a dog bone adapter off their camper, then use an extension cord that is less than half the thickness of the one in the camper. You can melt those cheaper cords and start a fire if you aren't properly sized, end to end.

Sundancer330 · 09-01-2017, 10:55 AM

And plug into a garage outlet if you can they are usually 20amp.

Jeff in NC · 09-01-2017, 11:00 AM

It could be hard on the AC unit, I would not recommend it unless you can meet both of these requirements:
1) dedicated 20 amp outlet
2) 10 Gauge extension cord, max 25 ft.
and run the AC only, on that line, no 110 fridge etc.

kayakterp · 09-01-2017, 11:01 AM

My wife did this at home without any incidents while running fridge lights at same time.
This past summer I went to a county park and the guy across had a smaller hybrid or pop-out? The first night his breaker box wasn't working and had to plug into th 110. He said he wouldn't/couldn't run his A/C Because it would melt his plug. Went on to say his dad tried it once and the plug literally melted inside the adapter.
He had 3 or 4 kids with him and they were a bit cramped and just had to open windows first night until park tech came and replaced breaker in campsite
I don't let the DW run A/C anymore while in driveway but if we did I would make sure fridge everything else is off

bdreinv · 09-01-2017, 11:04 AM

I can run one 15k AC on my dryer plug which is on a 20 amp breaker1

kayakterp · 09-01-2017, 11:05 AM

P.S. I meant "fridge & lights" at the same time
Not the lights on refrigerator

bdreinv · 09-01-2017, 11:11 AM

Maybe run the frig on propane,LED lights would not take much power!

Dustdevil · 09-01-2017, 11:22 AM

The problem with doing this is that the wire sizes are typically small in a house circuit of 15 amp or even some 20 amp supply. Breakers are often sized to protect that wiring, and often trip as a result. The longer your extension cord, the greater the resistance, and the greater the chance that there will be a voltage drop by the time the power reaches the coach. That low voltage will ensure your AC compressor and fan motors will run very hot. They will live for a while. But it will certainly shorten the lifespan of anything operating on that circuit. So, if you don't mind your motors lasting 1/2 or 1/4 their normal lifespan, go right ahead and run the RV AC system on house power. You'll get away with it. For a while. Pay me now, or pay me later.

bansai · 09-01-2017, 11:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dustdevil

The problem with doing this is that the wire sizes are typically small in a house circuit of 15 amp or even some 20 amp supply. Breakers are often sized to protect that wiring, and often trip as a result. The longer your extension cord, the greater the resistance, and the greater the chance that there will be a voltage drop by the time the power reaches the coach. That low voltage will ensure your AC compressor and fan motors will run very hot. They will live for a while. But it will certainly shorten the lifespan of anything operating on that circuit. So, if you don't mind your motors lasting 1/2 or 1/4 their normal lifespan, go right ahead and run the RV AC system on house power. You'll get away with it. For a while. Pay me now, or pay me later.

Note to self.... Not running the AC on home shore power anymore until I get my 30/50 amp pedestal wired up.

**Midnightmoon** · 09-01-2017, 11:34 AM

I run mine off of a dedicated 20 amp garage circuit that is wired directly off of the box with 12 gauge wire. I bring the trailer plug right to that outlet with no extension cord. I've run the AC on 3 trailers that way for the better part of the last 15 years with zero issues.

As mentioned above, if you are using extension cords or thin gauge wire, you are asking for issues. But with the proper setup, it is just fine.

JeremyFr · 09-01-2017, 12:35 PM

Each time I bring the trailer to the house to prep it for a trip I do this. I have a 13.5K unit with a 13.5 amp running amperage. It runs just fine with the fridge running as well. Plugged into a garage circuit with nothing else on it.

Chevy79bu · 09-01-2017, 01:16 PM

Another thing to consider if you plan to use your RV at your house often is to just install a outside outlet for it. I'm a bit of a busy body but I bought my first RV this past Monday and by Wednesday installed an outlet on the side of the garadge ran to the garadge sub panel on a 30 amp breaker. Not knowing your situation but it is not a hard thing to achieve so you may consider doing that. Now I can run the trailer on full power by just plugging the trailer directly into my outdoor outlet. I plan to make it so I can fully hook up the trailer under the carport I built for it by next spring. I'm on a septic system so I plan to even install a dump station.

LiftedAWDAstro · 09-02-2017, 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JeremyFr

I have a 13.5K unit with a 13.5 amp running amperage.

That is about what my 13.5K A/C unit draws in our camper. Easily can be run off a standard house receptacle. You definitely want appropriately sized extension cord if you need one and don't use the little "shorty" 30 amp to 15 amp adapter they give with the starter kits. Buy a much better dogbone adapter. They will handle 15 amps continuous.

us71na · 09-03-2017, 06:36 AM

Look at the circuit breaker in your trailer that protects the A/C unit. If your household circuit has an equal or larger breaker you should be good to go. Use your trailer power cord for your extension cord and a dog bone adapter. By code a household circuit with a 20 amp breaker is wired with #12 wire capable of delivering 20 amps and a 15 amp breaker is wired with #14 wire capable of delivering 15 amps. If in doubt call in a professional electrician to check out your wiring.

If you are running off a household circuit do not turn on anything more than your A/C.

Once you are hooked up and running, be sure to feel all the plugs and outlets every 15 minutes or so for a hour or two. If anything feels hot, turn off the A/C.

rodro123 · 09-03-2017, 06:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chevy79bu

Another thing to consider if you plan to use your RV at your house often is to just install a outside outlet for it. I'm a bit of a busy body but I bought my first RV this past Monday and by Wednesday installed an outlet on the side of the garadge ran to the garadge sub panel on a 30 amp breaker. Not knowing your situation but it is not a hard thing to achieve so you may consider doing that. Now I can run the trailer on full power by just plugging the trailer directly into my outdoor outlet. I plan to make it so I can fully hook up the trailer under the carport I built for it by next spring. I'm on a septic system so I plan to even install a dump station.

I ran a 50amp to plug into as well just for the RV and that was a piece of cake but your my hero on tapping into the septic system. I would like to do that as well when you do it take pictures and let us know how you did it.

RogerR · 09-03-2017, 05:09 PM

It is really a good idea to test the voltage of your circuit while the AC starts and while it is running. If voltage drops to far it can be hard on the AC motors. Compressors are a lot more expensive than a properly wired outlet for your rv.

Even if you have a properly sized outlet, breaker and wires, it still can't hurt to check the voltage. Why? There can be a bad connection somewhere, corrosion on the plugs, etc.

My little 195rb has a little 5,000 btu window unit that sips power. But it really can freeze us out even in hot weather.

WeRJuliian · 09-04-2017, 03:22 PM

You can --- IF you run from an outlet and wiring that are rated for the 20 or 30A that your A/C will draw, especially starting up (yes, there are mods you can do to give a soft start, but that's a whole other can of worms...)... and IF your extension cord is similarly rated.

We regularly run the AC in just this way, if we're working or cleaning in the trailer, subject to the conditions above... But we do live in Florida, so it's pretty much essential :-)

At some point, I do plan to install a "proper" 30A outlet in the carport, close to the trailer parking pad, so I can do away with the long cord.

As always, if you're not comfortable messing with electricals.. don't :-)

olyelr · 09-04-2017, 04:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rodro123

I ran a 50amp to plug into as well just for the RV and that was a piece of cake but your my hero on tapping into the septic system. I would like to do that as well when you do it take pictures and let us know how you did it.

Really, the best way to do it would be to dig up the inbound line to the tank and tie into it. Of course, poo only runs downhill so you will have to be sure your dumping location is a bit higher up than your septic system.

Personally, I would not recommend dumping your tanks into your septic system unless you had an effluent filter in the outbound baffle. 40-80 gallons of poop/grey water comming crashing into your tank almost instantly is hard on a system.

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