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Old 06-17-2015, 02:05 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by mike837go View Post
Isn't that reason enough?

I like being able to fix my things when they break. Spray foam would have to be cut out and then replaced after any repair. The fact that it expands during installation has many benefits in filling gaps and voids. Then has to be cut (waste) to fit within the covered space.

Rigid foam boards slip in and out. But will never provide perfect edge-to-edge coverage.

The killer for me, right now is what fastening system will:
A) Be simple and straight forward to install
B) Keep the sheet metal on while heading down the road
C) Be easy to undo to access the underbelly
D) Not corrode to the point where removal breaks the fasteners.
I would use the same corrugated plastic as the factory does for the underbelly. It's light, easy to attached and easy to repair. It just looks very cheap and unprofessional, imo.
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Old 06-17-2015, 02:23 PM   #12
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I would use the same corrugated plastic as the factory does for the underbelly. It's light, easy to attached and easy to repair. It just looks very cheap and unprofessional, imo.
What corrugated plastic?

My 19RD has black cloth. Seems like a close cousin to weed control landscape fabric.

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Wouldn't 20 gauge steel or aluminum be much better than plastic or cloth?
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Old 06-17-2015, 03:00 PM   #13
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What corrugated plastic?

My 19RD has black cloth. Seems like a close cousin to weed control landscape fabric.

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Wouldn't 20 gauge steel or aluminum be much better than plastic or cloth?
It's called "coroplast" (sp?) and is used frequently to make signs. Think political advertisements or those little signs that roofers leave in their customers' yards. My BIL used to make signs and graphics for a living and has that stuff all over the place. It's pretty useful for many things...
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Old 06-17-2015, 03:11 PM   #14
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When I built my house I used polyisocyanurate ridgid foam board and filled in the gaps with spray foam in 16oz. cans. I've cut it out in places and foamed it back in with out much trouble. I think it would be a much tighter mouseprooff(er) way to go. ....or just use the boards to make a skirt and put an electric heater in there.
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Old 06-17-2015, 03:16 PM   #15
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It's called "coroplast" (sp?) and is used frequently to make signs. Think political advertisements or those little signs that roofers leave in their customers' yards. My BIL used to make signs and graphics for a living and has that stuff all over the place. It's pretty useful for many things...
Google says, you got the spelling right, but it's with a capital c as that is a brand name product.

I do recognize the stuff. But I wouldn't put it into a horizontal application where water could lay in the channels.
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Old 06-17-2015, 03:28 PM   #16
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When I built my house I used polyisocyanurate ridgid foam board and filled in the gaps with spray foam in 16oz. cans. I've cut it out in places and foamed it back in with out much trouble. I think it would be a much tighter mouseprooff(er) way to go. ....or just use the boards to make a skirt and put an electric heater in there.
I'm too concerned with all the wiring and pipes under the belly.

When I have to start cutting the spray foam, I don't want to have to fix the tank level sensor leads.

That's why I want to try and built it:
- as near as possible, snug fitted rigid foam panels; kinda like the way ceiling tiles install.
- an easily unbolted layer of (stainless, aluminum or painted steel) to cover, protect and keep the foam panels in place.
- Separate electrical heat is being replaced by circulating cabin air (60-70F) through the insulated area nearest the tanks.

Making sure the dump valves are inside the heated space will be important.
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Old 06-17-2015, 04:20 PM   #17
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mke837go, what exactly are you attempting to accomplish? A lot of the stuff mentioned is great, but potentially overkill.


If you just want to extend your camping season a little longer in upstate New York, then you might be able to get away with heating pads for your holding and fresh water tanks. That will prevent them from freezing. I believe all of our water lines are above the floor, therefore in conditioned space. A couple of space heaters (free electricity at campground) will keep the inside comfortable and the tank heaters will keep you from freezing the tanks.


The floor will be colder that a trailer with the thermal package, but electric space heaters and some throw rugs will make it comfy enough.


In terms of wrapping your waste pipe elbows and stuff, that isn't really necessary. If your tanks have heaters, that will keep them from freezing. You should be keeping the tanks closed unless you are dumping anyways. If its cold enough for your waste fluids to freeze between the tank and the sewer connection... its too cold to camp!!!


Foam panels, spray foam, etc are pretty much overkill unless you are consistently camping in weather well below freezing.
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Old 06-18-2015, 07:32 AM   #18
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Overkill?


Yup! I can consider overkill as one possibility in a spectrum of courses of action.


Once it comes time to spend money and time, the reasonable course of action will have been chosen.


The overkill version will allow the trailer to stay unfrozen through even the most harshest winter we get where I live.


And yes, that is not what I want. I can just see myself trudging through 3 feet of snow to change out a 30lb propane bottle in late February.


A single insulating layer (to keep the frosty winds out) under the frame of the trailer and circulating heated cabin air under there will keep the tanks and drain lines from freezing well into November. And will allow me to de-winterize in early-to-mid April.


That is the reasonable choice. Now to figure what I want to use as "A single insulating layer". And where to cut holes in the floor to circulate "heated cabin air".
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