Converting a wasted space

[JKyle]

I have a 2022 22rb. That year there was an option for 12v fridge. All the campers, despite 12v fridge option are outfitted with the Dometic 2 way fridge access vent panel.

Starting late 2023 into 2024, the 12v was no longer an option, but standard. As not to waste space, the designers added a baggage door where the fridge panel used to be. It's a nice finished space on those models.

On my model, I have to use a screw driver to turn the panel locks. Inside is unfinished space, exposed plywood floor (slide out) and luan panels on the wall. I've been looking at this space since discovering it..perseverating...because that is what I tend to do.

I had my bathroom remodeled this past February. I had acrylic panels on the shower walls installed. When the workers were done, I asked if they could leave me some scraps. When I returned home from work, I found the workers left for for me, 2 giant pieces of acrylic.

Today I opened the space, cleaned up to the best I could, the overflow of gap filler foam and super thick heavy adhesive glue (spillover) used for the plywood floor. It bothers me; this space all bare wood gets dirty. I'm going to find a way to seal up the vents on the cover.

I cut some pieces of acrylic and have lined this access space. What stinks is, instead of running the fridge wiring out of the way, it sort of runs through the space along the bottom right. There's no excess wire, to move it out of the way. If I were a more confident do-it-yourself electrician, I might try to extend those wires. That's okay. There's still a nice amount of TALL space for items not needed quite as often but still, you want along for your trips.

I'm not done yet. I need to cut a piece for the right side and I need to get some caulk for the seams and edges. Contemplating coving the wallpapered left side. It's only the paper (wood plank look) not the vinyl type.

I'd love to replace the vent cover with a baggage door, but I think the size is odd and it appears the radius on the corners is sharper than typical baggage doors. I wish a company made a replacement to fit. The door from the 2024 models could probably fit, but that would require cutting.

I'm not that brave.

If I liked to fish, this would be the perfect pole storage space. What could I put in there?

[JKyle]

progress. This one I just friction fit.

I apologize to the group's OCD crowd.
I failed to match the grout lines.

[Jagiven]

Nice! Contact Jayco with your vin number and ask for the wall drawing. That will give you an idea of how much space you truly have to work with, without modifying any structure. From there start looking for hatches that fit your existing opening size to what ever size the framing can accept.

[JKyle]

Originally Posted by Jagiven

Nice! Contact Jayco with your vin number and ask for the wall drawing. That will give you an idea of how much space you truly have to work with, without modifying any structure. From there start looking for hatches that fit your existing opening size to what ever size the framing can accept.

I don't think it can work. the cutout for the baggage door has harder radius corners. even if I could get a door the same opening size, I think the corners would kill it from working. Also, the door is at the very bottom of the wall. No room to play, with at all....the radius corners do not match that of typical baggage doors.

I didn't put any panting on the far left. I kept the Jayco wood paneling wall on that side. I figure if I can get something to block up those vent holes, It'll be 'almost' like a baggage door.

The small amount of exposed flooring, just inside the front, is at a different level than the floor of the space. It is heavily coated in that flooring glue. Looks like its plastic/epoxy.

[norty1]

I would have considered making a cut in that wire hole to allow a false floor with just enough room to cover the wires. then the acrylic would have finished it off.

Also I might consider cutting a piece of plexiglass and attaching it to the hatch door.

If my combo fridge ever gives out, I would consider doing the same. You can't have enough storage.

[JKyle]

Originally Posted by norty1

I would have considered making a cut in that wire hole to allow a false floor with just enough room to cover the wires. then the acrylic would have finished it off.

Also I might consider cutting a piece of plexiglass and attaching it to the hatch door.

If my combo fridge ever gives out, I would consider doing the same. You can't have enough storage.

You're right about that! Storage is gold!

I wish I hadn't cut that hole so big...I was just following what was already there. I'm going to get one of those hole grommets (2 piece kid) so the wires aren't rubbing.

Thats an idea.....I was also considering making my own hide-a-panel access panel. Much like you find under sinks of some floorpans. Theres simply a standing piece of luan screwed into place at the top and side, hiding plumbing, etc. I could attach a piece of wood to the floor and another to the wall and place a panel diagonal in the space.

For now, I worked on the panel door and its openings. When you don't know what else to use...DUCT TAPE! White Gorilla tape to be exact. It's not permanent but it will hold for some time.

I ended up putting a piece on the far left wall, covering the fake wood paper. I had it and it was easy, so....I did it.

[JKyle]

I was just thinking...on the inside to the left of the dinette behind the fridge, a cubby could be build, much like I think it's the Imagine campers have.

[JKyle]

Originally Posted by norty1

Also I might consider cutting a piece of plexiglass and attaching it to the hatch door.

If my combo fridge ever gives out, I would consider doing the same. You can't have enough storage.

Norty, the air vents protrude out the back of the panel, on the inside. I'd be afraid to attach plexiglass on the outside, since this vent door is only held on with 2 plastic fasteners at the top and the bottom having 3 shallow teeth that grip into spots on the bottom of the frame.

[jimmoore13]

Something to consider.
12 volt compressor fridges have a reputation for being hermetically sealed in their cabinets. Many have no ventilation, and that means no place for the heat created during the refrigeration heat-exchange process to go.

There are quite a few threads on this subject that include recommendations for substantially improving ventilation in the fridge cabinet.

Seems to me that you have a great opportunity to address the ventilation issue while still capturing that storage space.

[Jayhawk 29]

This is an option for custom sized combination door units that we use on boats.
These are even black , which can blend with your trim.
https://www.boatoutfitters.com/build...oard-boat-door

[jimmoore13]

P.S. If you want to replace the old style absorption fridge access panel with something better, take a look at RecPro. They might have something you can use for a first class job. If you look carefully at the outer wall of the rig, I suspect you could remove the escutcheon that holds the outside fridge panel and then cut the siding on the rig to fit the frame of a new baggage door. An oscillating tool is an ideal tool for a nice clean job. Buy some good blades for the work...I like the Diablo brand widely available. Put a $20 blade on a $20 corded tool and you'll get a great job.

As for the wire, it's high time you learned to use crimp connectors. You can very easily snip the wires and insert a short length of the same gauge wire in the middle. Wire gauge is probably imprinted into the insulation. It would say something like 10 AWG, and it's likely to be stamped into the jacket rather than printed onto it. Match that wire size, or bring a 1" sample to the hardware store, and get wire the same size. You've got this.

[jimmoore13]

Originally Posted by Jayhawk 29

This is an option for custom sized combination door units that we use on boats.
These are even black , which can blend with your trim.
https://www.boatoutfitters.com/build...oard-boat-door

LOVE this!!

[RoadieWingZ]

Pool noodles. It’s a great place to store your pool noodles…..a bunch of them.

[JKyle]

Originally Posted by RoadieWingZ

Pool noodles. It’s a great place to store your pool noodles…..a bunch of them.

I was literally going to write that last evening!

"Pool noodles. If I needed to carry pool noodles. "

[JKyle]

Originally Posted by jimmoore13

P.S. If you want to replace the old style absorption fridge access panel with something better, take a look at RecPro. They might have something you can use for a first class job. If you look carefully at the outer wall of the rig, I suspect you could remove the escutcheon that holds the outside fridge panel and then cut the siding on the rig to fit the frame of a new baggage door. An oscillating tool is an ideal tool for a nice clean job. Buy some good blades for the work...I like the Diablo brand widely available. Put a $20 blade on a $20 corded tool and you'll get a great job.

As for the wire, it's high time you learned to use crimp connectors. You can very easily snip the wires and insert a short length of the same gauge wire in the middle. Wire gauge is probably imprinted into the insulation. It would say something like 10 AWG, and it's likely to be stamped into the jacket rather than printed onto it. Match that wire size, or bring a 1" sample to the hardware store, and get wire the same size. You've got this.

Jim. I have a crimper and some connectors. I guess my hesitation is/was about determining wire size. Also, b/c what 'appears' to me as simple; 'cut and extend' might have caveats that do not know or understand, b/c I lack electrical knowledge. The 'do's and don'ts' are not quite clear to me due to lack of practical experience. Which I am ready to improve upon.

[JKyle]

Originally Posted by Jayhawk 29

This is an option for custom sized combination door units that we use on boats.
These are even black , which can blend with your trim.
https://www.boatoutfitters.com/build...oard-boat-door

Now, THIS looks more like a viable option. See the radius corners? They're more sharp and appear to be a good fit for the opening. I'll have to check this out. Thank you!

[Jayhawk 29]

There are a couple of outfits that makes just the doors if you create a pattern. Hinging them is fairly easy, especially since you seem to have skills and even a local Harbor Freight close by if you need another tool or drill bit for the starboard. Of course like any flat surface that we manage to cover up with stuff easily, you will find something to put in open space behind a door. Then you can name your doors and tell your guests what they can find behind door number one, two or three you know.

[colby]

Originally Posted by JKyle

Jim. I have a crimper and some connectors. I guess my hesitation is/was about determining wire size. Also, b/c what 'appears' to me as simple; 'cut and extend' might have caveats that do not know or understand, b/c I lack electrical knowledge. The 'do's and don'ts' are not quite clear to me due to lack of practical experience. Which I am ready to improve upon.

Another option, and one I have been using lately because it includes waterproof heat shrink at the same time as connecting the two wires are Solder Seal Connectors, like this one here. Using a heat gun, it makes a very solid connection.

[Jayhawk 29]

This link gives you some approx pricing for your size. Just put in your sizes and you get the price. These people do a mighty fine job for me in the past.

https://finaddictmarine.com/products...-your-own-door

[jimmoore13]

Originally Posted by JKyle

Jim. I have a crimper and some connectors. I guess my hesitation is/was about determining wire size. Also, b/c what 'appears' to me as simple; 'cut and extend' might have caveats that do not know or understand, b/c I lack electrical knowledge. The 'do's and don'ts' are not quite clear to me due to lack of practical experience. Which I am ready to improve upon.

So now you know that the wire size is stamped into or printed on the jacket/insulation. Adding 12" or so of extra wire will not significantly alter the current capacity of this wire even at 12 volts. Have at it.