Curt TruTrack 17500 WDH

gmuzzi76 · 05-31-2017, 10:49 AM

I am having a hard time dialing in my WDH. Is anyone using a Curt Trutrack 17500 WDH? My TV is a 2015 F150, and my TT is a 2016 28BHBE. I know a lot people say this trailer is too big for this truck, but I went to the CAT scale and I am with in capacities. Actually my dilemma is my tongue wt is on the light side = 780lbs. Only 10.5%. I get that "porpoising" bounce when I drive on the cement hwys. Not enjoyable. Anyways I need some help.

Doug · 05-31-2017, 11:25 AM

I have that same hitch.
2016 Tundra 4x4, 5.7L, 2017 24'R

Have you made sure your TT is sitting 1" nose down?

Doug

BJR · 05-31-2017, 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gmuzzi76

I am having a hard time dialing in my WDH. Is anyone using a Curt Trutrack 17500 WDH? My TV is a 2015 F150, and my TT is a 2016 28BHBE. I know a lot people say this trailer is too big for this truck, but I went to the CAT scale and I am with in capacities. Actually my dilemma is my tongue wt is on the light side = 780lbs. Only 10.5%. I get that "porpoising" bounce when I drive on the cement hwys. Not enjoyable. Anyways I need some help.

I have a similar setup but with the lighter 287BHSW. I was concerned about tongue weight and did everything I could to minimize that and wound up hating it. (Eventually, we added more tongue weight)

I had the same hitch, see my review here:
http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f5...tch-37063.html

All I can suggest is figuring out a good tongue weight and running up to the limit.

gmuzzi76 · 05-31-2017, 11:54 AM

Here is a picture of how my hitch is setup right now. When my trailer is hooked up, looks like it rides nose high, but the level on the camper reads level. Should I try to lower the ball down 1 notch? I actually have the ball siting in position 3(it's in position 2 in pic), and I have a hard time getting the bars onto the L brackets.

Doug · 05-31-2017, 12:31 PM

Measure front and rear wheel wells of truck for height w/o trailer.
Hook up trailer.
Measure at the front of the trailer to the ground.
Measure at rear of trailer to ground from same reference line.
Adjust ball height and/or position so that trailer is maybe 2" down in front w/o WDH spring bars.
Using tongue of trailer hitched to truck, raise trailer + truck so that front of truck is within a 1/2" of height w/o trailer.
Adjust L-brackets for spring bars so that you can barely put them into L-brackets by hand while in this up position.
Let everything down in running condition and measure again.
Target trailer nose down by 1", front of truck within 1/2" of height with out TT. Adjust from there.

Be patient, 1 1/2 - 2hrs is not unusual.

Doug

Subaru297 · 05-31-2017, 12:35 PM

I would say you need more tongue weight. At least 12%, 13 to 15 is preferable for travel trailers.

Cheers

gmuzzi76 · 05-31-2017, 01:27 PM

I know I need more tongue wt. I have add a bunch of stuff to the front storage of the camper. Don't know what else to do to add more tongue wt.

Right now the hitch ball sits 2" higher than the camper coupler. I called Curt Mfg. and they said that is fine. Just seems high to me. I was thinking of calling the dealer we bought the camper from and see if I can return this hitch and get a different one. I have only camped twice with it.

Doug · 05-31-2017, 01:38 PM

Lower the ball.
Did you measure TT front and back?
What are your numbers?
I bought the Curt because the cam is much easier to adjust than the washers in the Equilizer.
Doug

Subaru297 · 05-31-2017, 01:47 PM

If your truck sags 2 inches when hitched up then 2 inches high is probably perfect prior to hitching up. Although 1 inch nose down might improve things. Give it a try.

I think the porpoising is normal for a WDH. If you think it is excessive then you should add some heavy duty shocks to your rear axle or airbags.

Again that is a big trailer for your truck even though you are within capacity it won't be completely stable.

Cheers

motorbreath · 05-31-2017, 04:31 PM

I have the same trailer with the Blue Ox WDH for underslung couplers. It took me 4 different attempts to get it dialed-in. I chose the Blue Ox WDH because it is very easy to adjust, with ~800lb tongue wieght the tow experience is good, considering that this trailer is near the limit of what is comfortable with a 1500.

I never go faster than 65mph, usually 60mph, and keep an eye out for seams in the highway near bridges.

Quote:

Originally Posted by gmuzzi76

I am having a hard time dialing in my WDH. Is anyone using a Curt Trutrack 17500 WDH? My TV is a 2015 F150, and my TT is a 2016 28BHBE. I know a lot people say this trailer is too big for this truck, but I went to the CAT scale and I am with in capacities. Actually my dilemma is my tongue wt is on the light side = 780lbs. Only 10.5%. I get that "porpoising" bounce when I drive on the cement hwys. Not enjoyable. Anyways I need some help.

gmuzzi76 · 05-31-2017, 06:46 PM

So I took some measurements.
TV
Front =37.75"
Rear =38 3/8

TV/TT w/o bars
Front = 38
Rear = 37

TV/TT w/ bars
Front = 37.75
Rear = 37

TT w/o bars
Front = 23.25
Rear = 25.25

TT w/bars
Front = 24.25
Rear = 24

Hitch ball height = 26.5
Trailer coupler = 24.5

What I need to do?

Doug · 05-31-2017, 08:39 PM

Hooked up, it looks like your TT is nose up by 1/4"
It should be nose down when towing 1"-1 1/2"

I would lower ball by 1" and lower L-Brackets by 1" or 1 hole.

Re-check same numbers after this adjustment.

Your fender numbers look good. They should remain pretty good.

Best regards,
Doug

SOMBATFAMILY · 06-01-2017, 04:48 AM

I have the same hitch and trailer with similar TW on my Toyota Sequoia. Dealer installed my WD and I was getting really bad "porpoising" then I adjusted a couple of times. Now no more "porpoising" and my TV front end is stock height and my rear end drop 1/2" with WD engaged. Trailer and TV sit very level but I have bar tension one level from the highest so I am only placing about 500# on the TV. Toyota recommended 9% to 11% TW when using WD hitch.

gmuzzi76 · 06-01-2017, 05:09 AM

What position do you have the ball set at? I am at position 3. When you say you have the bar tension set at one from the highest, does that mean you have 1 hole showing from the beneath the camper tongue?

SOMBATFAMILY · 06-01-2017, 08:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gmuzzi76

What position do you have the ball set at? I am at position 3. When you say you have the bar tension set at one from the highest, does that mean you have 1 hole showing from the beneath the camper tongue?

I have the ball set about 1.5" higher than top of couple with the trail level to the ground. Front and back of trailer is equal distance from flat ground. my Head Tilt Adjustment is on level 4. Looking at your picture it look like yours is set at level 2. You want to move the bottom pin to the hole on the left toward the truck. Leave the top pin in the center hole, if you want to try head tilt adjustment level 4. Hope that help. Any by the way it is a beast to get the bars on the L-brackets. I locked the coupler to the ball and use tongue jack to lift as high as I can to make it easier but sometime is still takes a lot of grunting to get the bar up on the L-bracket.

Doug · 06-01-2017, 08:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gmuzzi76

What position do you have the ball set at? I am at position 3. When you say you have the bar tension set at one from the highest, does that mean you have 1 hole showing from the beneath the camper tongue?

Your probably 1 or 2 moves at the most from being optimized.
Although good as a reference, I wouldn't change my set up based on a difference vehicle.

The ball height and tilt can be used to change the height of the ball and resulting tension in spring bars.
Several combinations can get you to the same place.
You're very close. I would get your nose down 1" and re-measure. Let us know what you find.
Doug

gmuzzi76 · 06-01-2017, 09:23 AM

After work I am going to lower the ball one hole to see if that helps.

Doug · 06-01-2017, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gmuzzi76

After work I am going to lower the ball one hole to see if that helps.

Remember, when you lower the ball, that will lower the fixed end of your spring bars 1".
Take a measurement after lowering the ball, if it's too much then you will need to lower L-brackets by 1" also to put you back where you were.

Best regards,
Doug

gmuzzi76 · 06-02-2017, 06:26 AM

Ok, I made my adjustments and here are my measurements:

TV:
Front = 37 1/2
Rear = 39 7/8

TV/TT w/o bars
Front = 38
Rear = 38 3/8

TV/TT w/bars
Front = 37 3/8
Rear = 38 7/8

TT
Front = 23 3/8
Rear = 24 3/8

I still get a bounce. Jayco dealer in town is going to let me try a different hitch just to see if it has anything to do with the hitch. If not I was looking into purchasing Roadmaster Active Suspension sytem, or buy a bigger truck.

SOMBATFAMILY · 06-02-2017, 06:57 AM

Looking at your numbers, it look like you you might not have enough weight transfer from rear of TV to the front. If the weight on your truck is 40% front axle and 60% rear then when you add TW of trailer then you would want close to 40% to also go to the front. I think you need to put more tension in the bars either by raising L-Bracket one hole or tilt the head adjustment to the next level up.
But if you just want an excuse to buy new bigger truck, don't let my stop you. I think it is best to exhaust all option before moving on.

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