Deep Cycle Battery Options for 2018 32BHDS

[Sscheitel]

I lost my home to a major fire in Dec. and in my garage, charging, was my Interstate battery for my 2018 JF 32BHDS TT.

I am now tasked with ordering a new battery and wanted to know what size, format and cold cranking amps I should be ordering to replace my original battery.

I would also like to consider alternatives to the original which was most likely a marine battery. Deep cycle? 6Vx2?

Thanks

[nunyadamn]

Originally Posted by Sscheitel

I lost my home to a major fire in Dec. and in my garage, charging, was my Interstate battery for my 2018 JF 32BHDS TT.

I am now tasked with ordering a new battery and wanted to know what size, format and cold cranking amps I should be ordering to replace my original battery.

I would also like to consider alternatives to the original which was most likely a marine battery. Deep cycle? 6Vx2?

Thanks

I replaced my single deep cycle battery within the first 6 months of buying my trailer with a couple of golf cart batteries from Costco. They are relatively cheap, last a long time. I had really expensive batteries in a boat one time and the charger died while in storage and killed those expensive batteries. I have plenty of space on the battery tray for both of the battery boxes with the GC batteries.

[Stingray75]

Another vote for 6Vx2. We replaced the original RV/marine battery with a couple 6V from Costco and now have no worries of battery problems when we overnite while traveling.

Sorry about the house fire

[Mustang65]

Sorry about the house fire. Everyone ok?

As for the size battery.
Do you have a residential fridge?
Do any stop-overs (no connections) over night?
Dry-Camp much?
Only go to campgrounds with Shore Power.

General note... Do not purchase any batteries that have CCA or MCA ratings as they are not deep cycle.
Don

My Registry

RVing with SOLAR

[Siamese]

On our first long trip (one month) in our 2017, 26BH, it became clear that the so-called deep cycle 12v battery that came with it was inadequate.

We joined Sam's Club, bought a pair of Duracell (East Penn) golf cart batteries, and rigged them up on a Home Depot parking lot. MUCH better battery setup, particularly if you plan to do any nights off the grid.

For many years I've used golf cart batteries on my cruising sailboat. IMO, there is no better value. There are other batteries out there, like AGM's, but for most of us, golf cart batteries are an excellent solution.

[pgartner]

Originally Posted by Siamese

On our first long trip (one month) in our 2017, 26BH, it became clear that the so-called deep cycle 12v battery that came with it was inadequate.

We joined Sam's Club, bought a pair of Duracell (East Penn) golf cart batteries, and rigged them up on a Home Depot parking lot. MUCH better battery setup, particularly if you plan to do any nights off the grid.

For many years I've used golf cart batteries on my cruising sailboat. IMO, there is no better value. There are other batteries out there, like AGM's, but for most of us, golf cart batteries are an excellent solution.

just out of curiosity, how many nights can you go on the pair of Duracell 6v? i have the same trailer and i need to decide on batteries. this exact setup is one that i am considering

-Paul

[Sscheitel]

Originally Posted by Mustang65

Sorry about the house fire. Everyone ok?

As for the size battery.
Do you have a residential fridge?
Do any stop-overs (no connections) over night?
Dry-Camp much?
Only go to campgrounds with Shore Power.

General note... Do not purchase any batteries that have CCA or MCA ratings as they are not deep cycle.
Don

My Registry

RVing with SOLAR

No residential fridge
Yes many stop overs
Boon dock often
50% time with shore power

Thanks on the CCA/MCA advice...

[Sscheitel]

did some research and most folks suggest a true deep cell 27 style battery. Any one know where this can be ordered online and shipped to my home?

[Mustang65]

Originally Posted by Sscheitel

No residential fridge
Yes many stop overs
Boon dock often
50% time with shore power

Thanks on the CCA/MCA advice...

My thoughts based on your above requirements would be to pick up a few "TRUE Deep Cycle" 6 volt batteries. You could go with (2) Trojan T105 (220Ah). I went with (2) Trojan T145 (260Ah) batteries. They were the perfect size for our camping life style. Costco or Walmart may have there own brand name for the same size batteries. If you are using or going to get an inverter go with the more power.

Just remember that what you take out of the batteries (Ah used overnight) needs to be put back in the next day while traveling. Short trips may not be enough to get them back to at least 90%. Just something else to think about.

Remember that you need to monitor Deep Cycle batteries closer ($$$$) and the lowest you want your battery voltage to go down to is 12.0VDC (the battery 50% rule). Invest in a battery monitor, it does not have to be an expensive one, the INEXPENSIVE ENTERY LEVEL battery monitor works good for a lot of the members. There is also another thread here The ALMOST perfect- Inexpensive Battery Monitor -Entry Level Upgrade. Both are good reads.

I also went with 250Watts of SOLAR mounted on the roof. I do not have to worry about the batteries getting charged. The SOLAR Panel supplies up to 20Amps (when needed) while traveling... just something to keep in mind for a future enhancement. I have not used the TT's battery charge controller in 5+ years.. the sun charges them and keeps them topped of. I just have to do the battery maintenance (water level, connections).

Don
My Registry

RVing with SOLAR

[KennyG]

2 x 6v true deep cycle golf cart batteries are the only way to go.

[Siamese]

Originally Posted by pgartner

just out of curiosity, how many nights can you go on the pair of Duracell 6v? i have the same trailer and i need to decide on batteries. this exact setup is one that i am considering

-Paul

We only do one night before topping off our batteries. Either by doing a day of driving or by running our generator to top them off (with a Pro Dynamics multi-stage charger to reduce charging time). We don't really have a reason to rely on the batteries for more than one night, and prefer not to run them down if we don't have to. So, I can't really provide an answer to your question.

I can tell you though, that with the 12v battery, and running the furnace in 30 degree weather overnight, I got up at 4a.m. and turned on a light. When the furnace kicked on, the light dimmed. Uh, oh. Checked the trailer's voltage meter and it read low. I went outside and started the generator to get us through until 8a.m..

When we spent a similar night with the new 6v's, the meter still read full charge in the morning. Of course, these meters are not terribly accurate, but it appears that we can use our television on an inverter, run our computers, lights, and furnace for a night with little drain on the pair of 6v's. Unscientific, but I'm sold.

[Jagiven]

Sscheitel, sorry for your loss. I hope everyone is ok.

As for batteries. The OEM battery was probably an Interstate Dual purpose group 27, 85 amp battery. It is an ok battery, nothing fancy. The battery box is sized for it.

First thing, I would recommend is going to a full deep cycle battery. Dual 6V batteries have a lot more power storage than dual 12V batteries.

If you go to a larger battery you will need a larger battery box(s).

Personally, I think Interstate batteries are not the best quality, MHO.

[SkyBound]

My wife and I camped 3 nights in a row on a single charge with dual Trojan T-105 6V batteries. Propane for fridge, water heater, and light furnace use at night, LED lights. When we packed up on day 4 we had hit 12.1V. We now have them in a larger trailer, so I doubt we could go quite as long without a recharge now, but perhaps maybe we could. I would still go a couple nights without a worry or care. And I just picked up an inverter generator too now, so we are covered.

[Sscheitel]

do they sell a piggy-back box/kit that houses [2] 6V golf cart batteries?


Also which 6V batteries are best suited for this application?

[Mustang65]

Originally Posted by Sscheitel

do they sell a piggy-back box/kit that houses [2] 6V golf cart batteries?


Also which 6V batteries are best suited for this application?

Size wise, you can go to the mfr website (Trojan, USBattery, Crown....) search 6 volt deep cycle batteries, they have a chart with all the batteries, AH ratings, and sizes.

Go for the most Ah and a size that fits the box and of course your budget

Don

My Registry

RVing with SOLAR

[CampNow]

Originally Posted by Mustang65

. . . the lowest you want your battery voltage to go down to is 12.0VDC (the battery 50% rule) . . .

Always some debate, but many consider wet-cell batteries at 12.10v - 12.20v, 50% discharged (at 70-80 degrees). In many circles, 12.00v is considered 60+% discharged (or ~40% state of charge). Not trying to start a debate, just noting there is some grey area as to what constitutes 50%. Suggest everyone google it, do their own research, and make their own decisions accordingly.

[Mustang65]

Originally Posted by CampNow

Always some debate, but many consider wet-cell batteries at 12.10v - 12.20v, 50% discharged (at 70-80 degrees). In many circles, 12.00v is considered 60+% discharged. Not trying to start a debate, just noting there is some grey area as to what constitutes 50%. Suggest everyone google it, do their own research, and make their own decisions accordingly.

There is NO debate. Here is the Trojan Percentage of charge (SOC) table happens to be the same as the Industry standard. Granted there is a temperature variable, but for general measurements the standard numbers are acceptable.

Don

My Registry

RVing with SOLAR

[CampNow]

Originally Posted by Mustang65

There is NO debate. Here is the Trojan Percentage of charge (SOC) table happens to be the same as the Industry standard. Granted there is a temperature variable, but for general measurements the standard numbers are acceptable.

Don

My Registry

RVing with SOLAR

Trojan batteries are constructed differently and have different charge requirements from run-of-the-mill GC2 6-volt batteries sold at Costco and Sam's Club. There's a significant price differential for a reason. Again, I recommend each person do their own research and decide accordingly.

Regardless, you claimed 50% SOC (state of charge) at 12.00v in your previous post. Your own chart says 12.10v at 50% SOC---within the range of 12.10v - 12.20v for 50% SOC I stated in my previous post.

Did you simply make a typo?

[nighthawk87]

How do you guys take into account voltage measuring when at night and it’s cold or when other things are running.

Example is if the morning 30 degree weather has your battery showing 11.8 is that bad? Or is it just due to cold wheather. Likewise. If the furnace is running the volts show a lot less.

Do you all turn everything off before looking at the volts to determine state of charge?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[CampNow]

Originally Posted by nighthawk87

How do you guys take into account voltage measuring when at night and it’s cold or when other things are running.

Example is if the morning 30 degree weather has your battery showing 11.8 is that bad? Or is it just due to cold wheather. Likewise. If the furnace is running the volts show a lot less.

Do you all turn everything off before looking at the volts to determine state of charge?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here's a chart that may help you understand a wet-cell battery's voltage/temperature/SOC relationship.

Most state-of-charge (SOC) tables are accurate for batteries under no (zero) load at ~80 degrees F. Since there may be parasitic loads in your trailer you may not be aware of, you may have to disconnect the battery terminals to get an accurate SOC voltage reading.

If you had an active converter or charger connected to the battery, you'll have to disconnect/turn-off the converter/charger then wait a while (some wait an hour or so, some wait overnight) to allow time for the residual charge voltage to dissipate before obtaining an accurate SOC voltage reading.

Battery voltage will decrease (sometimes significantly) based on load. A voltage reading in itself is not of much use without knowing the current SOC and/or battery load.