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Old 03-25-2011, 06:47 AM   #1
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Do I need or want stabilizer arms? - JT Strong Arm, etc

Hello,
Just ordered a new Jayco 29BHS. I have a family of 5 and I upgraded from a lightweight travel trailer. My other travel trailer used to bounce a ton when people walked around etc. I added the X Bal Chock on my tires and that helped but if I kept that trailer I was going to add the strong arms.

I would like to minimize movement as much as possible in the new trailer and again I am coming back to the JT Strong arms for my new camper.

1. Would current Jayco 29BHS owners or similiar trailer owners suggest I would want these?
2. One brand over another?
3. I have the enclosed underbelly should I install these myself or have the dealer do it.

Thanks
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Old 03-25-2011, 08:32 AM   #2
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I have purchased them for my 29BHS, haven't put them on yet. Keep waiting for it to get a little warmer.
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Old 03-25-2011, 08:53 AM   #3
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With 5 people walking around your unit, I bet it won't be long before you do something and I can tell you they really work if used as advertised. You might have to adjust them about once a week to get the full benefit. Best money I spent on my unit,
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Old 03-25-2011, 09:18 AM   #4
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I've been looking for something like this as well, but I think I'm just going to add in another set of jacks near the axles. It's a cheaper option, and should take out most of the bounce.

Also, I have the rear pull out tray on my 32BHDS... does anyone know if the JT system would work with this in place? From the pictures, it looks like the stabilizer arms would need to mount right where my tray is located.
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Old 03-25-2011, 09:52 AM   #5
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Poor man`s stabilizers. I bought a set of these (4) on Ebay for around 15.00 on auction. I only use 2, I put one on each side in front of the axles under the frame. These act as center stabilizers and do a good job of reducing motion because they tighten up solid under the frame. Just a little more setup time then using a 3rd set of stabilizers in the center which I have considered adding like Texas AM. -Lee


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Old 03-25-2011, 07:30 PM   #6
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Texas A&M I have the jt's on my 5er with the pullout tray. They go on no trouble at all.The arms on the back angle forward and in to the centr trailer.
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Old 03-25-2011, 07:33 PM   #7
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bgarv 29bhs As far as i'm concerned you won't find a more effective product at taking the shake out of a trailer than jt's.
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Old 03-25-2011, 10:46 PM   #8
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I have BAL chocks and jacks on all corners. I plan to do the same thing as Crabman. I think one on each side in front of the tires will do it.
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Old 03-28-2011, 09:59 AM   #9
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Thanks for the info hammer. I'm thinking of adding either an extra set of stabilizers or the JT solution sometime in the next couple of months. The hard part for me will be the install since it would be tough to do it at the storage lot (would be out of luck if I forgot a specific tool, laying in the gravel, etc) and also at home, since I would be laying in the middle of the street!
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Old 03-28-2011, 11:05 AM   #10
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Crabman.

I agree with your idea. re: Using adjustable Jack stands instead of under built factory scissor jacks & sideways stablizer bars. Although to me, it isn't a "poor mans" fix. It's actually "the smart man's fix". Especially when elimination of movement is needed.

If wondering, I use many 6-ton (next time, I will use 12 ton for more stability) axle stands under my long TT. They are set approx 6ft apart - down each steel frame rail. They eliminate both up/down bounce and sideways wiggle. For picture, surf: http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0696.jpg

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IMO - Have the RV dealer install the enclosed underbelly plastic material sheets. If you install it and encounter future problems, it might void factory warranty. If they install it and accidentally screw into a wire or water line, then they fix it (under their dime). As soon as the base warranty is completed, suggest removing the enclosed under belly material, install Contractor Grade Closed Cell @ 2 lbs approx 3.5-4.0" thick Spray Foam, then re-install the enclosed under belly materail. If wondering, my Jayco TT has spray foam on its underbelly. That Contractor Grade Spray Foam is amazing. If applied properly with sceen screen covering access holes (then spray foaming), it keeps critters out, it keeps heat / cold in (which saved energy while bone docking) and best of all, Spray Foam @ 3.5 - 4.0" thick "tightens up" floor movement. To me, all TTs/RVs must use Spray Foam insulation in their base build (but that's a topic for a different post).

Hope this helps in our research....

.
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