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Old 03-25-2011, 05:47 AM   #1
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Do I need or want stabilizer arms? - JT Strong Arm, etc

Hello,
Just ordered a new Jayco 29BHS. I have a family of 5 and I upgraded from a lightweight travel trailer. My other travel trailer used to bounce a ton when people walked around etc. I added the X Bal Chock on my tires and that helped but if I kept that trailer I was going to add the strong arms.

I would like to minimize movement as much as possible in the new trailer and again I am coming back to the JT Strong arms for my new camper.

1. Would current Jayco 29BHS owners or similiar trailer owners suggest I would want these?
2. One brand over another?
3. I have the enclosed underbelly should I install these myself or have the dealer do it.

Thanks
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Old 03-25-2011, 07:32 AM   #2
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I have purchased them for my 29BHS, haven't put them on yet. Keep waiting for it to get a little warmer.
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Old 03-25-2011, 07:53 AM   #3
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With 5 people walking around your unit, I bet it won't be long before you do something and I can tell you they really work if used as advertised. You might have to adjust them about once a week to get the full benefit. Best money I spent on my unit,
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Old 03-25-2011, 08:18 AM   #4
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I've been looking for something like this as well, but I think I'm just going to add in another set of jacks near the axles. It's a cheaper option, and should take out most of the bounce.

Also, I have the rear pull out tray on my 32BHDS... does anyone know if the JT system would work with this in place? From the pictures, it looks like the stabilizer arms would need to mount right where my tray is located.
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Old 03-25-2011, 08:52 AM   #5
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Poor man`s stabilizers. I bought a set of these (4) on Ebay for around 15.00 on auction. I only use 2, I put one on each side in front of the axles under the frame. These act as center stabilizers and do a good job of reducing motion because they tighten up solid under the frame. Just a little more setup time then using a 3rd set of stabilizers in the center which I have considered adding like Texas AM. -Lee


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Old 03-25-2011, 06:30 PM   #6
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Texas A&M I have the jt's on my 5er with the pullout tray. They go on no trouble at all.The arms on the back angle forward and in to the centr trailer.
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Old 03-25-2011, 06:33 PM   #7
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bgarv 29bhs As far as i'm concerned you won't find a more effective product at taking the shake out of a trailer than jt's.
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Old 03-25-2011, 09:46 PM   #8
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I have BAL chocks and jacks on all corners. I plan to do the same thing as Crabman. I think one on each side in front of the tires will do it.
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Old 03-28-2011, 08:59 AM   #9
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Thanks for the info hammer. I'm thinking of adding either an extra set of stabilizers or the JT solution sometime in the next couple of months. The hard part for me will be the install since it would be tough to do it at the storage lot (would be out of luck if I forgot a specific tool, laying in the gravel, etc) and also at home, since I would be laying in the middle of the street!
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:05 AM   #10
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Crabman.

I agree with your idea. re: Using adjustable Jack stands instead of under built factory scissor jacks & sideways stablizer bars. Although to me, it isn't a "poor mans" fix. It's actually "the smart man's fix". Especially when elimination of movement is needed.

If wondering, I use many 6-ton (next time, I will use 12 ton for more stability) axle stands under my long TT. They are set approx 6ft apart - down each steel frame rail. They eliminate both up/down bounce and sideways wiggle. For picture, surf: http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0696.jpg

----------------

IMO - Have the RV dealer install the enclosed underbelly plastic material sheets. If you install it and encounter future problems, it might void factory warranty. If they install it and accidentally screw into a wire or water line, then they fix it (under their dime). As soon as the base warranty is completed, suggest removing the enclosed under belly material, install Contractor Grade Closed Cell @ 2 lbs approx 3.5-4.0" thick Spray Foam, then re-install the enclosed under belly materail. If wondering, my Jayco TT has spray foam on its underbelly. That Contractor Grade Spray Foam is amazing. If applied properly with sceen screen covering access holes (then spray foaming), it keeps critters out, it keeps heat / cold in (which saved energy while bone docking) and best of all, Spray Foam @ 3.5 - 4.0" thick "tightens up" floor movement. To me, all TTs/RVs must use Spray Foam insulation in their base build (but that's a topic for a different post).

Hope this helps in our research....

.
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:55 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spike99 View Post
Crabman.

I agree with your idea. re: Using adjustable Jack stands instead of under built factory scissor jacks & sideways stablizer bars. Although to me, it isn't a "poor mans" fix. It's actually "the smart man's fix". Especially when elimination of movement is needed.

If wondering, I use many 6-ton (next time, I will use 12 ton for more stability) axle stands under my long TT. They are set approx 6ft apart - down each steel frame rail. They eliminate both up/down bounce and sideways wiggle. For picture, surf: http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...e/100_0696.jpg

----------------

IMO - Have the RV dealer install the enclosed underbelly plastic material sheets. If you install it and encounter future problems, it might void factory warranty. If they install it and accidentally screw into a wire or water line, then they fix it (under their dime). As soon as the base warranty is completed, suggest removing the enclosed under belly material, install Contractor Grade Closed Cell @ 2 lbs approx 3.5-4.0" thick Spray Foam, then re-install the enclosed under belly materail. If wondering, my Jayco TT has spray foam on its underbelly. That Contractor Grade Spray Foam is amazing. If applied properly with sceen screen covering access holes (then spray foaming), it keeps critters out, it keeps heat / cold in (which saved energy while bone docking) and best of all, Spray Foam @ 3.5 - 4.0" thick "tightens up" floor movement. To me, all TTs/RVs must use Spray Foam insulation in their base build (but that's a topic for a different post).

Hope this helps in our research....

.


Yeah they ( Jackstands) do a nice job and I see others using them as well. I guess the poor mans reference was to me, and the fact that they were cheap. I think they are around only 30 to 40 bucks for a set of 4 in the stores such as Walmart. And they are lightweight.
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Old 03-28-2011, 04:50 PM   #12
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Texas A@M The jt's are very easy to install. I myself am very mechanicly enclined and can tackle just about any project with ease. The jt's took me about 35 minutes to install with minimal tools. You will need a drill and a set of drillbits and a socket set. It should only take about an hour for the non mechanical type to do the job. The instructions are good and if followed the job is easy.
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Old 03-29-2011, 08:25 AM   #13
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Good to know. I'm mechanically inclined as well, but don't have the space to work on it. I may just have to roll out some carpet at the storage lot so that it's easier to crawl underneath (rocky ground, not asphalt).

I still can't decide if I want to add them or another set of jacks near the axles. I may start with the jacks since they would be cheaper.
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Old 03-29-2011, 09:55 AM   #14
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Was just looking for more info on the JT Strongarm system, and I found the Steadyfast... Anyone have any experience with this setup? Looks to be a simpler design than JT, and easier to install as well.

http://www.steadyfast.com/index.html
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Old 04-12-2011, 02:07 PM   #15
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Great thank you for all the feedback. I tried other solutions before like Wayne's Stabilizer Bars etc http://www.waynesrvstabilizer.com/ After crawling around and messing with all these gadgets when I got to the campground I grew tired of it and they did not work all that well. Also I had to store them in transit from point A to B. I told myself when I got a new camper I was going to get every option I wanted and all the accessories on day one so I can just camp and enjoy. I think ability to put down the jacks and turn a nut of each JT will be the way to go for me. The only other option that I will get on day one is the MaxxAir cover.
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Old 04-12-2011, 06:27 PM   #16
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I installed a third set of stabilizers right in front of the axle last weekend. Will be trying it out the next two weekends. If they don't sufficiently take the sway out, I'll be going with the Steadyfast system... I like the idea of everything being attached already and the ease of setup and tear down. I don't want to have to carry jack stands everywhere I go. I pack enough toys as it is!
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Old 04-13-2011, 12:00 PM   #17
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Do you have the Bal X chock on the tires or something similiar?
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Old 04-13-2011, 01:04 PM   #18
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Yep, got those first. They helped, but didn't take enough out. I probably could have just started out with the SteadyFast or JT system, but I went the other way... I like to tinker and experiment, and have never minded overkill, so it will eventually work itself out. I'll let you know how the third set of stabilizers work... I do expect them to take the flex out of the middle of the trailer, but they may not remove all of the wiggle (most noticeable when laying in the front bed while other people are moving around).
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Old 04-24-2011, 02:39 PM   #19
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Since I will be leaving any TT I buy to live in fulltime set up for extended periods (4-8 months at a time), I don't want to keep any weight on the tires nor have them contacting the ground. I'm considering getting four automotive scissors jacks to raise the tires an inch or two off the ground (more, if needed, to level from side to side). I can fasten them to a flat pad with tapered sides (to make scootching them across the ground easier) and use a long crank to both position them under the axles (as close to the springs as possible to avoid bending the axles) and to crank them up without crawling under the trailer (at my age, I don't crawl so well anymore) Since each one will be at an angle to the others, they should also help with reducing rock. I also plan on getting the optional electric stabilizer jacks on the TT. Based on how they are made, they look like they will have less sway than the standard scissor stabilizers. Of course, being operable by pushbutton will be really nice. Just lower a pair of them until one leg just touches a pad on the ground, then add shims and blocks under the other one until the gap is filled, then finish lowering them. I'm also thinking of having the dealer add another pair in front of the axles just to make sure the unit won't sway.

The Bal X chocks are great for short term but any loss of air pressure (quite possible over even a short term) will render the chocks nonfunctional.
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Old 04-28-2011, 07:01 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crabman View Post
Poor man`s stabilizers. I bought a set of these (4) on Ebay for around 15.00 on auction. I only use 2, I put one on each side in front of the axles under the frame. These act as center stabilizers and do a good job of reducing motion because they tighten up solid under the frame. Just a little more setup time then using a 3rd set of stabilizers in the center which I have considered adding like Texas AM. -Lee


I really like this idea, and I have a few of these just laying around from when they moved this place in! Gonna head out to the garage and clean them up, powder coat, and put in the back of the Suburban! My wife and I are both on the hefty side, and this should give the TT that little extra stability that I need...Thanks!
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