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09-01-2015, 10:04 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Utah
Posts: 892
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Drain for hot water heater
Has anyone replaced the nylon drain plug on the hot water heater with some kind of valve? I don't like leaving water sitting in it, and I have already worn the first plug out.
Part list and/or pictures would be awesome.
Thanks for any help!
Sorry about the bad title. Stupid iPhone likes to correct good words.
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2014 Ram 2500 Mega Cab Laramie 4x4 6.4L HEMI 4.10s with antispin
2014 Jayco Jay Flight Swift 287BHBE
Equal-i-zer 90-00-1200(new 90-02-4900 shank)
2x Honda 2K
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09-01-2015, 11:01 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 9,736
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Lots of us have.
I used a short pipe nipple, and attached a short braided hose used for a faucet water supply, then a 1/4 turn valve for a faucet.
Works great, only down side it takes a few extra minutes to drain.
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09-01-2015, 11:40 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Langley (Vancouver)
Posts: 396
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I just used the existing plug, drilled and threaded it, installed a wing nut valve. Works perfect with no leaks.. Cheap and easy to do..
__________________
TT: 2015 Jayco Jayflight 26BH Elite
TV: 2014 Ram 1500 Sport, 5.7 HEMI 3.21, Firestone 1000# air suspension. WD hitch w/800# bars
SOLD: 2012 Jayco J-series 1007
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09-02-2015, 06:34 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Missoula, Montana
Posts: 704
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jagiven
Lots of us have.
I used a short pipe nipple, and attached a short braided hose used for a faucet water supply, then a 1/4 turn valve for a faucet.
Works great, only down side it takes a few extra minutes to drain.
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Exactly what I did. The nipple I used was a pvc like material, so not metal. Its nice to see that initial blast of brownish water shoot out each time I drain the WH. Side benefit is have (usually warm) water to rinse off hands after packing to leave.
I'm sure there are pictures in older thread.
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"I might be movin' to Montana soon..."
2020 Outdoors RV Glacier Peak Titanium
2013 Eagle 29.5RKS (traded in)
2013 Ford 6.7L diesel F350
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09-02-2015, 06:43 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Vienna
Posts: 2,044
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skaling
I just used the existing plug, drilled and threaded it, installed a wing nut valve. Works perfect with no leaks.. Cheap and easy to do..
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I like your setup. Do you know what size wing nut valve you used?
Thanks,
Joe
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Joe Hinson
2010 Jayco Quest G2(SOLD)
2014 Jayco Eagle 33.5RETS
2007 Ram 2500 5.9L Cummins(SOLD)
2015 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins 4WD
:)
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09-02-2015, 06:46 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Salt Lake City
Posts: 227
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Charles in SLC, UT (formerly in Cincinnati, OH.)
2014 F-150 XLT, 3.5EB , HDPP
2011 Jayco x23B
Blue Ox SwayPro WDH
2006 Honda Ridgeline (retired TV)
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09-02-2015, 07:15 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 1,710
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I have read threads that say not to use a brass drain valve that directly contacts the aluminum Atwood heater tank. Atwoods do not use an anode rod and placing a brass fitting that contacts the aluminum tank may cause the plug to act as a sacrificial element and cause corrosion to develop...or so the theory says.
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2018 28BHBE
2017 Ford F250 XLT, 6.2 gasser
2013 26BH (traded)
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09-02-2015, 07:16 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Dale Hollow Lake Tn/Ky
Posts: 2,525
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charles_cincy
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x2 -=-Switched out the plastic one for the brass one from CW. It has a turn out valve on the end similar to the drain [petcock] on the bottom of a radiator. Easy to open and drain and then twist shut by hand [no tools] and no leaks.
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09-02-2015, 07:37 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Salt Lake City
Posts: 227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iraqvet05
I have read threads that say not to use a brass drain valve that directly contacts the aluminum Atwood heater tank. Atwoods do not use an anode rod and placing a brass fitting that contacts the aluminum tank may cause the plug to act as a sacrificial element and cause corrosion to develop...or so the theory says.
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Did some digging...some people agree with you...others don't.
One post that disagreed pointed out that the relief valve is made of brass.
This page seems to show that it could be an issue
https://www.engineersedge.com/galvanic_capatability.htm
But noted that "plating and finishes" could prevent the issue.
This guy says he contacted Atwood and they said the brass plug was ok..
water heater drain plug question - iRV2 Forums
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Charles in SLC, UT (formerly in Cincinnati, OH.)
2014 F-150 XLT, 3.5EB , HDPP
2011 Jayco x23B
Blue Ox SwayPro WDH
2006 Honda Ridgeline (retired TV)
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09-02-2015, 07:57 AM
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#10
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: WDM
Posts: 27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charles_cincy
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What size is needed, 1/2 or 3/8" for 2016?
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Previous Camper: 2016 Jayco Jay Flight 267BHSW
Previous Truck: 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 5.3L 3.42 gears
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09-02-2015, 11:10 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Tulsa
Posts: 170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skaling
I just used the existing plug, drilled and threaded it, installed a wing nut valve. Works perfect with no leaks.. Cheap and easy to do..
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What size is that wing nut valve you used? I like this idea better than the all brass one. Thanks!
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09-02-2015, 06:16 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Langley (Vancouver)
Posts: 396
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Treatcg
What size is that wing nut valve you used? I like this idea better than the all brass one. Thanks!
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Not sure the size, but it had a #10 stamped on it.. The OD of the threads where just a bit smaller than the ID of the hole(on the inside) of the nylon plug
__________________
TT: 2015 Jayco Jayflight 26BH Elite
TV: 2014 Ram 1500 Sport, 5.7 HEMI 3.21, Firestone 1000# air suspension. WD hitch w/800# bars
SOLD: 2012 Jayco J-series 1007
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09-02-2015, 07:19 PM
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#13
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Tulsa
Posts: 29
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Joining for info.
P
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2015 F250 Lariat - 6.7
2014 Jayco 29.5 BHDS
2014 Audi Q5 TDI
No Gas in my garage, now I need a Diesel Lawnmower
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09-02-2015, 09:13 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Bellingham,Wa.
Posts: 6,657
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My brass plug might be 5 years old. When I purchased my TT 2 years ago ( it's a 2010) it had a brass plug.
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2010 Jayco Hybrid EXP21M
2013 Toureg TDI
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09-02-2015, 10:06 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Phoenix AZ
Posts: 278
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1st two mods on my 2011 were to the Atwood water heater.
Added an adjustable thermostat, and a brass drain plug w/petcock.
No problems thru 5 seasons now.
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2010 Dodge Ram 2500 Big Horn 4x4
2011 Jayco Eagle Super Lite 30.5RLS
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09-03-2015, 07:29 AM
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#16
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Broomfield
Posts: 26
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Can someone just make one for me?? I hate the nylon plug and I can't ever seem to get it on and off. Relented to just destroying it at the end of the season to drain the HW tank, replacing it with a new one the next year. I like the brass valve inserted into the nylon plug so you avoid the anode/different metals ordeal.
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09-03-2015, 07:49 AM
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#17
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: WDM
Posts: 27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bassdogs
x2 -=-Switched out the plastic one for the brass one from CW. It has a turn out valve on the end similar to the drain [petcock] on the bottom of a radiator. Easy to open and drain and then twist shut by hand [no tools] and no leaks.
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1/2"?
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Previous Camper: 2016 Jayco Jay Flight 267BHSW
Previous Truck: 2006 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 5.3L 3.42 gears
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