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07-28-2012, 01:49 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: King George
Posts: 2,761
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I use the 14.4V Dewalt three speed drill. Works great... Dont forget you also have to purchase the correct size socket. I forget what the size is just take your hand crank with you to Lowes to buy one that fits...
__________________
Roy and Carolyn
I claim Horse Creek Country in Southern Ill - Momabear is from North Texas
We live in King George VA
RETIRED DOD DOAF DON CONTRACTOR Electronics Tech 42YRS
"We're burning daylight" - John Wayne
2008 STARCRAFT 14RT OFF-ROAD POPUP with PD9260C and three 85AH 12VDC batteries
2010 F150 FX4 5.4 GAS with 3.73 gears - Super Cab - Towing Package - 2KW Honda EU2000i Gen
K9PHT (since 1957) 146.52Mhz
"We always have a PLAN B"
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07-29-2012, 05:13 AM
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#22
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 99
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Thanks for all the additional comments... once our rig gets here I'm going to try the drill I have, I'm not too convinced i will work well so I"ll probably watch the sales for a stronger longer lasting drill and pick one up for the job... the biggest problem with these battery driven drills is that all the batteries end up dying and to purchase a replacement is an arm and a leg! But, thats a conversation for another day..
Thanks again for all the great suggestions.....
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07-29-2012, 12:16 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Vienna
Posts: 2,044
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I use the 18volt DeWalt drill and it works like a charm. Keep the handle handy, just in case. lol
__________________
Joe Hinson
2010 Jayco Quest G2(SOLD)
2014 Jayco Eagle 33.5RETS
2007 Ram 2500 5.9L Cummins(SOLD)
2015 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins 4WD
:)
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07-30-2012, 10:53 AM
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#24
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 8
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i dont understand why u need a drill, mine are actually really easy by hand.
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07-30-2012, 04:22 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Missouri
Posts: 138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsurfer9
i dont understand why u need a drill, mine are actually really easy by hand.
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x2, i probably spend less than a minute on each stabilizer jack by hand.
__________________
2011 Jayco Jay Flight 24RKS
2011 Ford F-150 XLT SC 4X4 5.0L, 3.73
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08-12-2012, 08:47 PM
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#26
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 25
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After a week and alittle settling no battery powered drill will lift. I used a 19.2V Porta Cable 1/2 inch chuck. This sets pretty tight, but raising is a different issue after a time period
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10-17-2017, 02:40 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Muskegon
Posts: 804
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A couple people have suggested that cranking them by hand is just fine. Yeah, I get that.
But, not for me. I like my electric tongue jack, my Anderson levelers, and my cordless drill for the stabilizers. I like to make my setup as quick and painless as possible. Checklists, walkie-talkies, anything that makes us more efficient at making camp.
Of course, my cheap little Black and Decker drill is also a welcome addition to my onboard tool box. It goes in my toolbox (actually one of those nice pails that cat litter comes in) along with a set of screwdriver bits, drill bits, a torque wrench and socket for my wheel lugs, socket set, screwdrivers, a couple crescent wrenches, and a small assortment of pliers. Oh, and a multi-meter and a hydrometer for the battery.
So, I figure the cordless drill does double duty. I'd probably have it in my tool box anyway, so why not keep the stabilizer bit in it and use it?
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10-17-2017, 02:58 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Muskegon
Posts: 804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidki
Thanks for all the additional comments... once our rig gets here I'm going to try the drill I have, I'm not too convinced i will work well so I"ll probably watch the sales for a stronger longer lasting drill and pick one up for the job... the biggest problem with these battery driven drills is that all the batteries end up dying and to purchase a replacement is an arm and a leg! But, thats a conversation for another day..
Thanks again for all the great suggestions.....
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It sounds like you're under the impression that it takes a fair amount of power to set the stabilizer jacks. Actually, it doesn't take very much at all. Unless the screw mechanism on your jacks is caked with crud (in which case you need to clean them), it takes very little power to turn them, as they are under no load. They spin freely and easily, well within the ability of an inexpensive cordless drill.
In use, you put the drill on the jack, using a bit you can get in the trailer section at Walmart or online, and spin each jack down at high speed. All you want to do is have the foot plate of the jack touch the ground. The instant the jack makes ground contact, turn off the drill. The corner of the trailer should not rise (well, maybe a quarter of an inch).
Ditto for raising the jacks. They just zip right back to the up position with very little power. Takes about three seconds.
One responder mentioned settling. If you think you'll have settling due to soft ground and/or rain, then it's a good idea to put a square of wood under each jack to spread the load. We carry a supply of squares we cut from a 2x6 board.
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10-17-2017, 04:52 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 9,769
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This is an old post. Over the years, I have decided I do not like the impact drivers, to drive the stabilizers. They are way to noisy, and drive me nuts early in the morning or late at night. About a year ago, evwry time we went out everyone around us had them, and everyone seamed to just crank on the stabilizers to level their tt. It drove me nuts, it was worse than loud tv's and radios.
Drills Andrew nice and quiet. I still do mine by hand. Or maybe I should say by my kid's hands
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10-17-2017, 09:22 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Hood River
Posts: 170
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I use a Milwaukee cordless ratchet drive. Works great. Will also come in handy later as a cordless socket wrench....
Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
__________________
2017 RAM 2500 Tradesman CTD CC LB
2017 Jayco Jayflight 28BHBE
Equal-i-zer 1200# WDH
Prior 2011 Jayco Greyhawk 26DS
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10-18-2017, 10:12 AM
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#31
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Nowhere
Posts: 12
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My 3 year old lowers our stabilizers with the manual crank. All by himself. I just make sure they are tight.
I don't believe in using a drill and especially an impact gun to lower the stabilizers because the screws jacks are not designed to be run at high rpm or to absorb the kind of shock the impact gun generates. You will wear out the friction surfaces prematurely and end up with the stabilizers creeping down due to vibration.
Besides... my son really likes "helping" me set up the trailer. It is his favorite thing next to watching trains.
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10-18-2017, 08:31 PM
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#32
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Orlando
Posts: 186
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A recommendation from our salesman was also to use a drill.
I use a cheap harbor freight rechargeable drill. I have an inverter in the truck for recharging between sites if I need it or recharge after we set up onsite. It usually lasts me 2-5 set-ups
I use the drill to lower it and then snug it manually, retracting I only use the drill.
Those who use the manual crank to move the jacks, all I have to say is once you use a drill, you'll use a drill.
__________________
2016 Jay Flight 28RLS
2016 Silverado LT 2500DH Diesel 4x4 with towing Package
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10-18-2017, 08:54 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Abilene
Posts: 579
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Craftsman 19.2 volt. Low gear.
It rides with me anyway.
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10-18-2017, 08:59 PM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: PNW
Posts: 642
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tls001
x2, i probably spend less than a minute on each stabilizer jack by hand.
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Another one here for raising and lowering the stabilizers by the hand crank.
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10-19-2017, 08:09 AM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Galesburg
Posts: 119
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Buy once cry once. Get a good one that the battery will last a few years.
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10-19-2017, 08:27 AM
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#36
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Lost in the Woods
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Ontario Canada
Posts: 256
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NOTAHEMI
I don't believe in using a drill and especially an impact gun to lower the stabilizers because the screws jacks are not designed to be run at high rpm or to absorb the kind of shock the impact gun generates. You will wear out the friction surfaces prematurely and end up with the stabilizers creeping down due to vibration.
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FWIW, I can assure you that using a drill will not wear out the " friction surface". Not sure where you heard this, but that's false information. The only thing that could damage anything is heat from friction, and a cordless drill will never spin anything fast enough and long enough to hurt anything.
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10-19-2017, 08:33 AM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: CENTRAL NEW YORK
Posts: 984
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I also do it by hand. I don't care if anybody else wants to use a drill but anybody using as impact and lets it make that ratcheting sound for more than a half second is a jack wagon.
__________________
2013 33 RLDS
2004 Chevy Avalanche 2500 8.1
2019 Jeep Cherokee Limited 3.2
2016 CTS 4 2.0T
2001 Oldsmobile Aurora 4.0
2015 Chrysler 200C AWD
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10-19-2017, 08:40 AM
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#38
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: SE Wisconsin
Posts: 3,430
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My good drill stays home. For the stabilizers I use a cheap Harbor Freight drill. $16, it's 4 years old now. People's kids and dogs make far more noise than a drill makes for the amount of time it's used. Besides, we camp mostly when the kids are in school. There's generally very few people around when we setup/breakdown.
__________________
Chuck
2013 Jayco Jayfeather X20 E (sold)
2016 Chevy Silverado LTZ 2 Z71 Crew Cab (sold, and dearly missed)
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10-21-2017, 03:55 PM
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#39
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Helena
Posts: 195
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I just have a 18 volt Ryobi that has a Lithium battery. Works great!
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10-21-2017, 04:45 PM
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#40
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Bellingham,Wa.
Posts: 6,675
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Come on you " grasshoppers " I'll show you how to do it one handed and a beer in the other. The exercise is good for ya especially at 65 and above. Next year I'm leaving the car home.
__________________
2010 Jayco Hybrid EXP21M
2013 Toureg TDI
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