Dry hitch weight?

[Maddawg46]

I have not signed the papers, but I'm concerned with the hitch weight on my proposed new trailer. The website at Jayco says dry hitch weight is 620?. Why the ? Mark. It's going to be higher when they add batteries and water. Am I correct? It might be 800! Is this an issue with a new model?

[tbwill]

Yes, you need to be concerned if you're on the limits of your tow vehicle payload capacity. Our 2015 27RLS "dry hitch weight" of 695 lbs ended up being 1050 lbs (measured with a Sherline Tongue Weight Scale). Options, your cargo, propane and batteries will all increase it. In our case the "Unloaded Vehicle Weight" in the brochure of 6030 lbs ended up being just over 6900 lbs as built with full propane tanks. Add a battery and cargo, we are at about 7500 lbs ready to camp.we are right at 14% tongue weight so I would shoot for the high side of the 10-15% to estimate where you'll be.

[hboy]

Our trailer hitch weight as listed on jayco web site is 660lbs. When we are loaded it has been around 9,00 - 1,100lbs.

I would not say this is a new issue. I'm sure the weights listed can be supported by the RV manufacturers. But unloaded weights are only a guide. Unfortunately you don't know really what you got till it's in your driveway.

Sherline trailer tongue weight scale can be purchased online for $150. It's a handy tool to have and will allow you to know what the tongue weight is anytime you want to weigh it.

[ALJO]

Listed Dry Hitch weight from the factory is with empty propane bottle(s)
Install batteries up front fill the propane tank(s) put lots of stuff in the front storage it add up fast. If the front storage stuff is distributed better and some in the back things will change.
Mine TW listed around 500 lbs. but actual is around 740 lbs.
Most of the storage is up front. But then I travel light with the two of us.

[Scoutr2]

All good responses. The dry weight from the factory does not include battery(s), propane bottles, electric tongue jack, awning, or spare tire (mine is mounted beneath the trailer, up front). But you will never tow the trailer like that. So you need to consider the weight of these dealer add-ons and all your gear (cooking, camping, food, etc) - which you should try to evenly distribute. Most trailers have the pass-thru storage up front, so that will add quite a bit, being forward of the axles. Water weighs 8.2#/gallon. I have 80 gallon capacity - 656#. But my water tanks are in the rear, which offsets some of the tongue weight.

The best thing you can do is look at the GVWR for your trailer (on the yellow sticker). That's the max weight the trailer is designed to carry on the axles. Then multiply by .15, and this is a more realistic - and safe way to calculate your tongue weight. (Example: 9000 pound GVWR X .15 = 1350# tongue weight)

And I would make sure the WD hitch you use is rated for that weight, at the least.

Hope this helps!

Mike

[bankr63]

Great tip on the Sherline. Tongue weight is very difficult to determine while pulling through a highway scale unless it is closed and you can actually unhitch. The rest of the axle weights can be calculated by taking several measurements as you pull through. Have another entry on my ever growing list of trailering wants...

[tjpolsin]

Originally Posted by Maddawg46

I have not signed the papers, but I'm concerned with the hitch weight on my proposed new trailer. The website at Jayco says dry hitch weight is 620?. Why the ? Mark. It's going to be higher when they add batteries and water. Am I correct? It might be 800! Is this an issue with a new model?

If you are concerned about your TV capacity before you sign, do this rough estimate exercise to see if your new trailer and TV will match.

- divide your dry hitch weight by the listed unloaded trailer weight. This will give you your percent tongue load.

- no multiply that number by the trailer's listed max gross weight (listed on the sticker, not in the brochure). This number will give you a pretty good estimate of your max tongue weight.

- use this calculated max gross tongue weight to determine the minimum remaining cargo capacity in your TV, and to purchase the correct sized WD bars for your hitch.

Tim
2008 26BHS
2010 RAM 2500 CCLB
reese straitline w/1000# bars.

[ALJO]

Before buying test the RV you like with your TV. With any TV I never would like to run the max for towing. But the weight the TV can carry you can max to their capacity.
Manufactures always will be on the safe side. Some times you have to do some modification with helper springs or airlift bags which will not increase your GVWR but will level out better your TV. For safety TV and TT or 5er should be level.

[Scoutr2]

Originally Posted by tjpolsin

If you are concerned about your TV capacity before you sign, do this rough estimate exercise to see if your new trailer and TV will match.

- divide your dry hitch weight by the listed unloaded trailer weight. This will give you your percent tongue load.

- no multiply that number by the trailer's listed max gross weight (listed on the sticker, not in the brochure). This number will give you a pretty good estimate of your max tongue weight.

- use this calculated max gross tongue weight to determine the minimum remaining cargo capacity in your TV, and to purchase the correct sized WD bars for your hitch.

Tim
2008 26BHS
2010 RAM 2500 CCLB
reese straitline w/1000# bars.

Remember, too, the the people riding in your TV must be considered part of the cargo capacity (GVWR) of the TV. People, gear, and tongue weight are all part of the cargo capacity. For a 1/2-ton truck, it's a lot less than you would expect.

[Scoutr2]

Originally Posted by ALJO

Before buying test the RV you like with your TV. With any TV I never would like to run the max for towing. But the weight the TV can carry you can max to their capacity.
Manufactures always will be on the safe side. Some times you have to do some modification with helper springs or airlift bags which will not increase your GVWR but will level out better your TV. For safety TV and TT or 5er should be level.

Beware of thinking you can increase GVWR by using helper springs or air bags. I don't recommend them for that purpose. The axles are only rated for so much weight, as are the tires. There's a reason the tires on a 1/2-ton are inflated to 35 psi and the tires on a 3/4-ton are inflated to 80 psi. There's a HUGE difference in the tire ratings - so they can carry more weight.

Air bags and helper springs have a purpose - to help you with leveling the vehicle. But they should NOT be thought of as a means to safely carry more weight. And I'm sure the manufacturers of those products provide plenty of warnings to that effect.