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09-17-2016, 08:05 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Memphis
Posts: 234
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Dumb Mistake - Now I Keep a Jack Stand in TV
With the trailer parked in the driveway I did something stupid and had the front jack post slide off the leveling blocks and go directly to the ground. No damage but it was now too low to get it up high enough to hook back on to the truck. After some fuming I thought - what if this happened to me out on the road? I would be in a real bind. I got one of my small car jack stands out of the garage, raised up the TT as high as I could, put the jackstand under the coupler, raised the electric jack up high and put the blocks back. I was then able to get the TT up enough to get the TV ball back under the coupler. I pitched the jack stand into the back of my truck and there it will stay, just in case I get dumb again while out on a trip.
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09-17-2016, 08:13 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Sparwood, BC
Posts: 2,800
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First priority is to properly chock the RV so it will not move at the Power Jack.
Under the front Jack never use stackable blocks of any kind of material (they will slide).
Use one good solid block or a stackable one nailed or screwed together.
__________________
2014 Ram 1500 CrewCab 4x4 5.7 Hemi 3.92 Rear and Air Lift 1000
2005 Jayco Jay Feather LGT - 29Y GVWR-7000 lbs.
Dexter Axle Lift 4-9/16" - installed with sub-frame.
Pro Series 1200 lbs. WDH with Double Sway Bar.
Champion 3100/2800 watt Inverter/Generator-Onboard Solar Power
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09-17-2016, 08:20 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Memphis
Posts: 234
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Yep, I use the stackable "lego" style plastic blocks for the front and for the stabilizer jacks. They lock together and work just fine. My stupid mistake was when testing my new andersen levelers I did not chock the wheels on that side. I had my screw chock on the opposite side and in my setup I forgot about the other side before I decided to unhook the TV. The second I did it I realized what I had done. A new tool that was different than my routine and my mind didn't click in to make sure that side was chocked as well. Chocking the wheels (after I'm level side to side) is always my first step when I park, just got out of my routine and in a hurry.
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09-17-2016, 08:39 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Pembroke, NY
Posts: 181
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You could just use the jack out of your truck and leave the extra jack stand home?
__________________
2001 Ford F-150 4x4 5.4
2012 Prime Time Tracer 2670BHS (sold)
2017 White Hawk 28DSBH (*Special Ordered w/ almost all the options in 10/16. Delivered on 5/19/17)
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09-17-2016, 08:47 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Memphis
Posts: 234
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Thought about that. Like many vehicles it's behind the rear seat, all wrapped up in a nice case with velcro and clamps, etc. Getting them out and then putting them back is almost as much hassle as changing a tire in some vehicles. Easier just to grab the stand and stick it under the coupler. It's small. I doubt I'll ever need it again so at some point I'll probably leave it behind and could use my truck jack if needed - which I hope I never do. If I did it again I might need to reconsider whether I should be licensed to operate.
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09-17-2016, 08:49 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Dale Hollow Lake Tn/Ky
Posts: 2,525
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There is a much easier way to get out of your problem if you are faced with this. I was picking up my TT at the dealer after some final warrantee work and they had moved it and left it on the front jack. I could not raise it high enough to reach the ball on my 2500 Hd Silverado. When I ask them to bring something out to lift the TT so I could use a block they said "watch this".
After fully extending the tongue jack, they lowered 2 front stabalizers to the ground. They then retracted the power jack so I could slip in 6x6 block and then they retracted the stabalizers. Problem solved in 3 minutes. Its not a good idea to full support the TT with the stabalizers for a long period of time, but in this case you are not lifting the full weight of the unit, only the tongue weight.
I logged this "emergency" fix in my bag of tricks.
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09-17-2016, 08:53 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: PNW
Posts: 5,195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bassdogs
There is a much easier way to get out of your problem if you are faced with this. I was picking up my TT at the dealer after some final warrantee work and they had moved it and left it on the front jack. I could not raise it high enough to reach the ball on my 2500 Hd Silverado. When I ask them to bring something out to lift the TT so I could use a block they said "watch this".
After fully extending the tongue jack, they lowered 2 front stabalizers to the ground. They then retracted the power jack so I could slip in 6x6 block and then they retracted the stabalizers. Problem solved in 3 minutes. Its not a good idea to full support the TT with the stabalizers for a long period of time, but in this case you are not lifting the full weight of the unit, only the tongue weight.
I logged this "emergency" fix in my bag of tricks.
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That's what I do when I'm set up in an extremely out-of-level site. Sometimes leveling takes more blocking under the front jack than you can put in when still hooked up to the TV.
__________________
Bill
2011 Dodge Ram 1500 HEMI Quad Cab
2011 Jay Flight 26BH
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09-17-2016, 08:58 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Memphis
Posts: 234
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Didn't consider that since I've logged in my mind to never put the full weight of the trailer on the stabilizers. My tongue weight is ~800lb and with the stabilizers set back from the coupler it would be a little(?) over ~400lb per stabilizer on the frame. Seems to me they should be able so support that for an emergency hookup need. I'm one of those that still doesn't put as much torque on their stabilizers as they probably could. I'm over cautious on putting too much weight on them. When I hear the frame creak a bit I stop. I adjust them some during a stay but not too much.
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09-17-2016, 09:23 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Fort Wayne
Posts: 1,271
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I had this happen to me one time and decided to build my own tongue jack stand. I designed it to be adjustable from ground level up to 20 plus inches high and the tongue jack goes into the tube so It cant move once it has pressure against it. The feet are about an inch below the bottom plate so they dig in and the plate keeps it from sinking in to soft ground. It works great and keeps the tongue solid.
__________________
2011 F250 King Ranch Crew Cab Diesel , 2015 Jayco Eagle 338 rets
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09-17-2016, 09:27 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Sparwood, BC
Posts: 2,800
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Stabilizer jacks are rated from 2000 lbs. for single acting to 3500 lbs. for double acting and go further up depends on its use. Most half ton trucks carry a 10 ton scissor jack
__________________
2014 Ram 1500 CrewCab 4x4 5.7 Hemi 3.92 Rear and Air Lift 1000
2005 Jayco Jay Feather LGT - 29Y GVWR-7000 lbs.
Dexter Axle Lift 4-9/16" - installed with sub-frame.
Pro Series 1200 lbs. WDH with Double Sway Bar.
Champion 3100/2800 watt Inverter/Generator-Onboard Solar Power
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09-17-2016, 02:43 PM
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#11
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: "True North" Canada
Posts: 57
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Save the grief of using blocks and be able to extend your tongue jack automatically that also has a great footpad with the use of a
Fastway® Flip™ Automatic Jack Foot.
Most trailer owners spend a lot of time hassling with their tongue jack chasing around several wood blocks, kneeling down and messing with a pin and putting up with a flimsy aggravating removable jack foot.
I use the Fastway Automatic Jack Foot which adds up to 6" to the tongue jack and it's unique folding action makes lowering and raising of the jack quick, easy and secure. Hassle free and all self contained. I'm totally impressed with it! Check them out!
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09-18-2016, 08:01 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Dale Hollow Lake Tn/Ky
Posts: 2,525
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suzhou
Didn't consider that since I've logged in my mind to never put the full weight of the trailer on the stabilizers. My tongue weight is ~800lb and with the stabilizers set back from the coupler it would be a little(?) over ~400lb per stabilizer on the frame. .
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Keep in mind that you are not "lifting" the TT with this procedure. All you are doing is holding it in place while you retract the tongue jack to reinsert the block. After reinserting the block, you use the jack to raise the tt to the necessary height.
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09-18-2016, 08:15 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 276
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For the record, I did the EXACT same thing. Exactly the whole way.
__________________
2018 Jayco 34RSBS
2015 Ram 2500 Big Horn Cummins Diesel 4x4
19xx Beautiful Wife
2 x Golden Retrievers
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09-18-2016, 08:03 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Silver Spring, MD
Posts: 1,804
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Harbor Freight Tools and a $20 bottle jack. I remember as a kid our jack either slid off the pad or the wooden pad wasn't strong enough to support and the jack went through. Either way we returned to the camper to find that the tongue was laying on the ground... the jack had sunk into the soft ground. We were SOL until a neighbor came along with a bottle jack and jacked the tongue up enough to get sufficient blocking underneath and try again.
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09-18-2016, 09:03 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: KENOSHA
Posts: 120
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I had one of those Fastway® Flip™ Automatic Jack Foot devices and used it all the time until it collapsed at the pivot point where the foot folds up underneath. I've been reluctant to use it again. When the jack foot collapsed, I had to buy a hydraulic bottle jack with 2 jack stands and slowly lift the trailer with the bottle jack, lower the tongue jack, put in the jack stands, then repeat several times before the coupler was high enough for the hitch. What a hassle! I'm reluctant to use the stabilizers too in a case like this, as they seem so flimsy for a 3500 lb trailer (Jayco Feather UltraLite x20e).
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