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Old 10-18-2017, 04:06 PM   #1
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Question easiest way to winterize/de-winterize

ok, living in West Texas, we do have freezing weather at times in cold months, but also really nice fall and winter weather. so, is there an easy way to winterize, then de-winterize, and winterize again throughout the season? I hate to shut it down for four months when I could be having some fun in it.
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Old 10-18-2017, 04:13 PM   #2
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ok, living in West Texas, we do have freezing weather at times in cold months, but also really nice fall and winter weather. so, is there an easy way to winterize, then de-winterize, and winterize again throughout the season? I hate to shut it down for four months when I could be having some fun in it.


Just blow the lines out with an air compressor, and put a little anti-freeze in the toilet and p-traps. There isn’t much de-winterizing to do for that method except dealing with the hot water heater bypass.


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Old 10-18-2017, 04:17 PM   #3
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question..........once I hook up the air, do I open each fixture one at a time til air comes out, or open all of them at the same time?
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Old 10-18-2017, 04:35 PM   #4
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question..........once I hook up the air, do I open each fixture one at a time til air comes out, or open all of them at the same time?
One at a time, and try not to go beyond 40psi (or so I've read)
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Old 10-18-2017, 04:55 PM   #5
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As others said just blow it out, open close one faucet at a time, open low point drains, drain fresh water tank, don't have to bypass HWT just blow it out, exterior shower. Open and drain any interior water filter housings, there should at least be a small filter right before the water pump. Then if you want to use it just hook up to city water or fill the water tank and your ready to go.
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Old 10-18-2017, 05:08 PM   #6
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Pull the plug on the water heater.
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Old 10-18-2017, 05:13 PM   #7
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As others said just blow it out, open close one faucet at a time, open low point drains, drain fresh water tank, don't have to bypass HWT just blow it out, exterior shower. Open and drain any interior water filter housings, there should at least be a small filter right before the water pump. Then if you want to use it just hook up to city water or fill the water tank and your ready to go.
Don't forget the toilet too… I did once. It made for an unexpectedly damp and then frustrating/expensive fix come Spring!
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Old 10-18-2017, 06:48 PM   #8
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Antifreeze is easy. I like the big tub method, less walking around. You still need to pour the drains and remove the water heater drain plug and shift the bypass, but we have done this in Wal-Mart parking lot. Hahaha
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Old 10-18-2017, 08:19 PM   #9
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My trick for blowing out and not bursting anything from too much pressure is to make sure one faucet is open before I hook up the air, then opening the second one before I close the first etc. I have no idea how much pressure it would take to damage something, but the water system doesn't use much pressure in normal operation, so I don't like to take a chance.

Also, not sure how cold you might get, but down to one or two degrees below freezing it's fine to leave water in the lines. Especially if the temperature is only for a couple of hours overnight.

Had a chat with a service tech for a large RV rental shop here and he doesn't start to worry until around -10 Celsius, which is around 14F. Myself, I like to get it before that point, because I'm long since done my camping season by then, but he's in charge of a fleet of fifty units and he's not worried.

Even in summer it's relatively common for us to get hard frosts overnight in the mountains here and nobody is bursting any plumbing.
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Old 10-19-2017, 08:12 AM   #10
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Y'all are wonderful!!!! Thank you for all the great information!!! I sure appreciate it!!!
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Old 10-19-2017, 11:06 AM   #11
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rule of thumb is for every degree below zero is how many hours you have till it freezes up.. so if it is 30 degrees F you have 30 hours if it is 10 degrees you have 10 hours...
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Old 10-19-2017, 12:25 PM   #12
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My trick for blowing out and not bursting anything from too much pressure is to make sure one faucet is open before I hook up the air, then opening the second one before I close the first etc. I have no idea how much pressure it would take to damage something, but the water system doesn't use much pressure in normal operation, so I don't like to take a chance.

That's what I do. Any time I've got the air hooked to my system, I leave a place for the air to escape.
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Old 10-19-2017, 01:18 PM   #13
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Hey curver900......do you mean below "freezing" rather than "zero"???? I love that formula. If it drops to 30F degrees, I have 30 hours before it freezes. that helps so much! This time of year, we might dip below freezing for a bit in the night, but get back above freezing for rest of the day. so I don't have to worry if it drops during the night as long as it gets above freezing the next day? that would be fantastic!!!
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Old 10-19-2017, 02:36 PM   #14
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Hey curver900......do you mean below "freezing" rather than "zero"???? I love that formula. If it drops to 30F degrees, I have 30 hours before it freezes. that helps so much! This time of year, we might dip below freezing for a bit in the night, but get back above freezing for rest of the day. so I don't have to worry if it drops during the night as long as it gets above freezing the next day? that would be fantastic!!!
yes below freezing ... zero on my mind I guess good catch...
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Old 10-19-2017, 03:06 PM   #15
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thank you all again so much!
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Old 10-19-2017, 03:26 PM   #16
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I live in S. TX and because of work, my camping season closes at the end of December (maybe a few weeks into January) and reopens in May. For us, that's the coldest part of winter, so I "winterize" in early January, or when I know the temperature will get significantly below freezing overnight. It's VERY rare that we have freezing temps during the day here.

Anyway, I drain everything, blow out my lines, put AF in the traps, toilet and waste tanks and open storage areas inside where water fittings/hoses reside (when they are closed off from the normal living space, they actually will stay cold for a long time).
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