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Old 02-01-2013, 12:44 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by workingchump View Post
snip......Electric Tongue Jack on the other hand...it breaks...it WILL be replaced... ....... snip
I agree 100%


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2018 Jay Flight 24RBS
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Old 02-01-2013, 05:15 PM   #12
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Have had an Atwood electric tongue jack on my car-hauling trailer for maybe close to 15 years now. Absolutely no problems or repairs in that time. Trailer has tongue weight of about 500lb (axles are mounted off-center towards rear), and adding weight of car, total tongue weight is around 1,000lb. Atwood makes several different weight ranges, so if you get one that is in the correct range for your unit, I highly recommend Atwood's products. JMHO

2003 Ford F-350 V-10 Crew Cab 4WD Long Bed
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Old 02-01-2013, 07:20 PM   #13
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X2 on the Atwood electric tonque jack. Our tonque weight is 860lbs, the TT came with an Atwood 2500lb Deluxe Jack. It doesn't seem to have any problem picking up the truck and trailer to get the WDH bars in place.
2011 Jayco Jay Flight 24RKS
2011 Ford F-150 XLT SC 4X4 5.0L, 3.73
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Old 03-06-2013, 08:20 PM   #14
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Have them both, so far love them both!! But NO don't lift trailer with stabilizers!
Dan, Nel and Jack
2013 Jay Flight 26bh - 2007 f-150 xtr 5.4
2001 kiwi 23b
1979 23.5 Okanagan class c
1973 8' Bonair pop-up
tent - not wife friendly btw
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Old 03-07-2013, 11:31 AM   #15
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Learned a trick a long time ago with electric hitch jacks. I mark the jack bar top so I know just before I've reached the limit of travel. This prevents the motor from trying to override the stop.

Make sure you know how to manually operate the hitch & stabilizer jacks. Sooner or later you'll blow a fuse or it will just stop working. Good to know..
Bill B. (S.E. Michigan)
2014 Keystone Cougar High Country 321RES (was 2007 Eagle 322FKS)
2007 Dodge Megacab CTD
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Old 03-07-2013, 12:06 PM   #16
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Had the electric tounge jack on my last TT and would not be without it especially when you are setting the WDH bars. Get one with a manual crank incase you need it.

As for the scizzors I have both electric from the factory and manual added by me later to take out the bounce. The electric are nice but think the manual do better in the department of stabilization on the corners. My switch went bad but was replaced. There is a manual crank location on the threaded rod for manual retrevial and crank down should you need to do it. If you have manual already just get a portable drill and drill attachment.

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Old 03-07-2013, 06:05 PM   #17
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I have a power tounge jack, it works great, I use a 18 volt cordless drill on the stabilizers

2007 Ford F150 5.4 lt.
2013 29 RLDS

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