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Old 06-22-2016, 09:48 AM   #11
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The junction box in question only contains low (12VDC) wiring. Same as the power used to operate your yard lights. Moisture is really not any kind of an issue. No need for it to be water tight. I think every trailer ever manufactured uses the same junction box.

The strap is for extending and retracting a manually operated awning. If your trailer has a manual awning over the door or any windows that's probably what it's for. Most awnings come with two straps. They have one installed and the 2nd is a spare. That's all I've ever seen the straps used for.
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Old 06-22-2016, 09:50 AM   #12
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The strap is used "if" you have to roll it up manually.
Can you explain how to use the strap the manually roll up an awning? I have an electric awning and never have been able to figure out how to roll it up in the event of a motor failure.
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Old 06-22-2016, 10:49 AM   #13
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No need for that strap on a electric awning. Read the mfg instructions for rolling it up if you have a regular power failure.


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Old 06-22-2016, 11:49 AM   #14
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No need for that strap on a electric awning. Read the mfg instructions for rolling it up if you have a regular power failure.


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Grumpy said the strap was used to manually roll up an electric awning. I was asking him to please explain the process. If a motor fails the normal power failure process will not work.
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Old 06-22-2016, 04:31 PM   #15
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Grumpy need to splain how then.


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Old 06-22-2016, 05:15 PM   #16
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So a 30amp service would might use a 50amp self resetting breaker. .
30 amp breaker is what you want if you have 30 amp service. The regular blade fuse type are 30 amp fuses. I can not think of anything that will take 30 amps or more in a TT. Unless of course you have a electric tongue jack and run it too high or low which will blow the fuse. I would put that on its own fuse connected directly to the battery. I tagged everything in the box, just in case.

No the box is not sealed.

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Old 06-22-2016, 05:37 PM   #17
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OK I'll order one. What size should it be. I can't find it in any owners books. I think the camper is 30 amp. So would I use a 30 amp block
I think you might be getting the AC shore power confused with the DC power system. The wiring on the front of the trailer, in the box and the breaker in your picture are DC power components and low voltage 12VDC.


The 30 amp camper service you mention is the AC power system and not directly related to the items on the A frame.

A 30AMP DC breaker is completely different from a 30AMP AC breaker.
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Old 06-22-2016, 07:00 PM   #18
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I think you might be getting the AC shore power confused with the DC power system. The wiring on the front of the trailer, in the box and the breaker in your picture are DC power components and low voltage 12VDC.


The 30 amp camper service you mention is the AC power system and not directly related to the items on the A frame.

A 30AMP DC breaker is completely different from a 30AMP AC breaker.
I did realize they were 2 different systems I just assumed they needed to match in amperage for the fuses. It was my understanding that dry camping running off batter power it still runs thru the inverter, so I figured they needed to be the same.
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Old 06-22-2016, 07:07 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Mustang65 View Post
30 amp breaker is what you want if you have 30 amp service. The regular blade fuse type are 30 amp fuses. I can not think of anything that will take 30 amps or more in a TT. Unless of course you have a electric tongue jack and run it too high or low which will blow the fuse. I would put that on its own fuse connected directly to the battery. I tagged everything in the box, just in case.

No the box is not sealed.

Don
I do have electric tongue jack, But I really only need to move it a about 8" up to connect, I know at the dealer when installing the WD hitch the guy was lifting the back of my truck with the thing. I was surprised that it didn't burn it out then, Im a neat freak with wires so ill have to label and clean up all the connections
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Old 06-22-2016, 07:55 PM   #20
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Grumpy need to splain how then.


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