Electrical box

[kohj1978]

We bought a 2014 Jayco 32BHDS and are getting ready for our first trip. i was getting ready to replace the e break switch (sucked up the cable into the weed eater) and noticed the electrical box on the front, it looks like a standard metal junction box for a house, is this how they come from the factory, i would think they would use plastic water tight boxes. Also what is the part called for the power wire block that is missing the cover.


and a bonus question, what does this strap go to, hs a loop in one end and a 4" plastic tube on the other, maybe 6ft long

[Rmgrose]

I have seen similar electric boxes on other units, I do not know what it looks like inside. Hopefully the wire junctions are sealed in some manner. As for your bonus question, I believe the pipe part goes in the grove of your awning and wraps up with it. When you want to open the awning, just pull the strap.

[kohj1978]

I haven't opened it up yet. But screw holding it to the frame is rusted off so I'll be opening it up tonight.

Also we have electric awnings so I guess that it just comes with the trailer

[Grumpy]

The strap is used "if" you have to roll it up manually.

[kohj1978]

Originally Posted by Grumpy

The strap is used "if" you have to roll it up manually.

Makes sense so I'll keep it in the trailer. Thanks

[DanNJanice]

Originally Posted by kohj1978

We bought a 2014 Jayco 32BHDS and are getting ready for our first trip. i was getting ready to replace the e break switch (sucked up the cable into the weed eater) and noticed the electrical box on the front, it looks like a standard metal junction box for a house, is this how they come from the factory, i would think they would use plastic water tight boxes.

Yes, the electrical box you showed looks just like the one on my 2015. This is how they come from the factory. I have not pulled mine apart, but I would be surprised if they were sealed in any way. One of these days I will remove mine and replace it with a proper box.

[DanNJanice]

Originally Posted by DanNJanice

Yes, the electrical box you showed looks just like the one on my 2015. This is how they come from the factory. I have not pulled mine apart, but I would be surprised if they were sealed in any way. One of these days I will remove mine and replace it with a proper box.

Also, the red box in your first picture is a self-resetting breaker. The terminals look pretty badly corroded, I would replace that while you are working under there.

[kohj1978]

Originally Posted by DanNJanice

Also, the red box in your first picture is a self-resetting breaker. The terminals look pretty badly corroded, I would replace that while you are working under there.

OK I'll order one. What size should it be. I can't find it in any owners books. I think the camper is 30 amp. So would I use a 30 amp block

[DanNJanice]

Originally Posted by kohj1978

OK I'll order one. What size should it be. I can't find it in any owners books. I think the camper is 30 amp. So would I use a 30 amp block

Hopefully it will be written on the one you have. Usually, the breaker is larger than the current draw your trailer designed for. So a 30amp service would might use a 50amp self resetting breaker. Your local RV dealer should be able to help you out.

[kohj1978]

I'll look tonight. I'll have to call the dealer. my "local" dealer is an hour away.

[Hohenwald48]

The junction box in question only contains low (12VDC) wiring. Same as the power used to operate your yard lights. Moisture is really not any kind of an issue. No need for it to be water tight. I think every trailer ever manufactured uses the same junction box.

The strap is for extending and retracting a manually operated awning. If your trailer has a manual awning over the door or any windows that's probably what it's for. Most awnings come with two straps. They have one installed and the 2nd is a spare. That's all I've ever seen the straps used for.

[Hohenwald48]

Originally Posted by Grumpy

The strap is used "if" you have to roll it up manually.

Can you explain how to use the strap the manually roll up an awning? I have an electric awning and never have been able to figure out how to roll it up in the event of a motor failure.

[norty1]

No need for that strap on a electric awning. Read the mfg instructions for rolling it up if you have a regular power failure.


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[Hohenwald48]

Originally Posted by norty1

No need for that strap on a electric awning. Read the mfg instructions for rolling it up if you have a regular power failure.


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Grumpy said the strap was used to manually roll up an electric awning. I was asking him to please explain the process. If a motor fails the normal power failure process will not work.

[norty1]

Grumpy need to splain how then.


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[Mustang65]

Originally Posted by DanNJanice

So a 30amp service would might use a 50amp self resetting breaker. .

30 amp breaker is what you want if you have 30 amp service. The regular blade fuse type are 30 amp fuses. I can not think of anything that will take 30 amps or more in a TT. Unless of course you have a electric tongue jack and run it too high or low which will blow the fuse. I would put that on its own fuse connected directly to the battery. I tagged everything in the box, just in case.

No the box is not sealed.

Don

[Hohenwald48]

Originally Posted by kohj1978

OK I'll order one. What size should it be. I can't find it in any owners books. I think the camper is 30 amp. So would I use a 30 amp block

I think you might be getting the AC shore power confused with the DC power system. The wiring on the front of the trailer, in the box and the breaker in your picture are DC power components and low voltage 12VDC.


The 30 amp camper service you mention is the AC power system and not directly related to the items on the A frame.

A 30AMP DC breaker is completely different from a 30AMP AC breaker.

[kohj1978]

Originally Posted by Hohenwald48

I think you might be getting the AC shore power confused with the DC power system. The wiring on the front of the trailer, in the box and the breaker in your picture are DC power components and low voltage 12VDC.


The 30 amp camper service you mention is the AC power system and not directly related to the items on the A frame.

A 30AMP DC breaker is completely different from a 30AMP AC breaker.

I did realize they were 2 different systems I just assumed they needed to match in amperage for the fuses. It was my understanding that dry camping running off batter power it still runs thru the inverter, so I figured they needed to be the same.

[kohj1978]

Originally Posted by Mustang65

30 amp breaker is what you want if you have 30 amp service. The regular blade fuse type are 30 amp fuses. I can not think of anything that will take 30 amps or more in a TT. Unless of course you have a electric tongue jack and run it too high or low which will blow the fuse. I would put that on its own fuse connected directly to the battery. I tagged everything in the box, just in case.

No the box is not sealed.

Don

I do have electric tongue jack, But I really only need to move it a about 8" up to connect, I know at the dealer when installing the WD hitch the guy was lifting the back of my truck with the thing. I was surprised that it didn't burn it out then, Im a neat freak with wires so ill have to label and clean up all the connections

[Hohenwald48]

Originally Posted by norty1

Grumpy need to splain how then.


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Zackly!