Electrical problem...any advice? - Page 2

bedrck46 · 08-12-2016, 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bossman

When I do the repair I intend to replace the neutral bus bar. Is there a paste that I can coat the wires with to prevent oxidation of the wires ?

Use Noalox you can find it at Lowes or Home Depot or an electrical supply house

BCK · 08-12-2016, 08:53 AM

You don't really need an anti-oxidant compound for copper wire to a coated buss bar. There are products out there for copper but usually only used in harsh environments and high voltage. Naolox, Penetrox, etc. are zinc based for aluminum conductors. Anti-oxidant compounds for copper are copper based.

Bossman · 08-13-2016, 05:57 AM

One other thing occurs to me . The technician said that the set screws were steel and the aluminum bus bar is aluminum. Because of the difference in cooling rates of the aluminum and steel it will cause the screws to back of very minimaly over years. Should I re-torque to correct setting as an annual maintaince and would some medium strength lock tight solve this problem.
Thxs

KYCAMPER · 08-13-2016, 06:59 AM

I agree, you shouldn't need antioxidant compound on those connections. However, it wouldn't hurt to apply a little lubricant to eliminate any moisture necessary to support corrosion due to galvanic reactions between the copper and bus bar.
If possible you might try crimping a lug to the wire and make a lugged connection.
Just curious, it would be interesting to know if the campground power supply is 120/208 3ph or 120/240. (grabbing at straws here but 3ph introduces some unique issues all of its own but but still probably not likely at a campground) Anyone else at the campground having the same problem?

eldermike · 08-13-2016, 07:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bossman

When I do the repair I intend to replace the neutral bus bar. Is there a paste that I can coat the wires with to prevent oxidation of the wires ?

Oxidation is not the problem, it's galvanic corrosion that causes these type issues. Oxygen can't get to the interface of a good connection because it's a gas tight environment. But dissimilar metals react to each other and many poor quality electrical devices have designed in issues concerning the types of metals and finishes they use for connections. A copper wire on a copper bus bar with a copper plated screw is the best. But a copper wire on a plated bus bar and a steel screw is often seen in electrical devices. The only thing you can do in the latter case is keep an eye on it.

Can you accurately describe the metals and platings that make up the connections? If so you I can show you how to look up the effects of incompatible couples in electrical connections.

If not then get an electrician to fix your issue and ask him/her to follow the code.

Bossman · 08-13-2016, 10:53 AM

Power to the park is 30 Amp 120 V for traillers and 20 Amp for your overall electrical needs for your site ( ie. Shed fridge / external lights etc ). As far as I'm aware, we're the only ones having issues. Agreed about using similar metals ( copper ) is always best. I haven't had an opportunity to do the repair as I've been traveling but I've ordered the part from Jayco dealer. I'd be willing to be it will be the same as I'm removing . Aluminum bar. Steel screws.

ALJO · 08-13-2016, 11:03 AM

Bossman go to a local electrician to get a copper one (I am sure they have an old panel lying around).

BCK · 08-13-2016, 11:11 AM

Buss bars are designed and coated to accept copper so there is nothing to worry about. If the connections are clean and done properly there is no concern. Literally millions of similar connections are done every year and issues are almost always installer error.

My company has a preventative maintenance division that detects and fixes these exact issues among others. If done right the first time re-tightening is not recommended and actually causes more problems than it prevents.

Bossman · 08-13-2016, 11:21 AM

Sounds reasonable. What about some thread lock on the screws as a little extra protection?

ALJO · 08-13-2016, 11:33 AM

Wouldn't use thread-lock on the screws, as it would be hard to loosen them if ever needed.
Another electrical issue is the ground to the chassis. From the mfg. it is a dry install with a corrugated washer. Any RV I had it was my first job to loosen the connection (be sure Batt. is disconnected and Shore power off) and applied copper grease to the connection.
It never gave me ground issue trouble. I did this wherever a ground went to the chassis.

BCK · 08-13-2016, 10:38 PM

X2 on the thread lock. As well as making it hard to remove you need the good metal to metal contact that the threads provide as part of your contact surface.

Bossman · 08-18-2016, 06:45 PM

Having some issues with obtaining the neutral bus bar from jayco. Only sell entire panel. Does anyone see a problem with me cutting down a bar from a electrical panel from a house panel and using it? It seems to me it should work the same.

Hohenwald48 · 08-19-2016, 05:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bossman

One other thing occurs to me . The technician said that the set screws were steel and the aluminum bus bar is aluminum. Because of the difference in cooling rates of the aluminum and steel it will cause the screws to back of very minimaly over years. Should I re-torque to correct setting as an annual maintaince and would some medium strength lock tight solve this problem.
Thxs

If this was the real problem then wouldn't every RV in the country be having the same problem. I think the "technician" might be trying to blow a little smoke too.

There's something funny going on here. I don't even know what "shorted neutral" means. I think you need to have a good electrician take a look at the entire system. Not an RV tech but a licensed electrician.

Hohenwald48 · 08-19-2016, 05:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bossman

Having some issues with obtaining the neutral bus bar from jayco. Only sell entire panel. Does anyone see a problem with me cutting down a bar from a electrical panel from a house panel and using it? It seems to me it should work the same.

No problem with cutting down a bar. However, you can go to Lowes or Home Depot and find a pretty good selection of buss bars.

BuddyRay · 08-19-2016, 05:48 PM

You can also find every size imaginable on Amazon.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bossman · 08-21-2016, 09:39 AM

Repair done. Replaced neutral bus bar and cut back damaged shoreline power ( neutral) until good wire. This shoreline neutral is multiple conductor strand wire. It would appear it was over tightend and crimped. My question is this is a 30 AMP shoreline cord. Should the gauge not be #10 AWG. When I striped back the insulation jacket it was #14 AWG that I used on my wire strippers. This to me would lend itself to overheating at peak draw (a/c , H2O tank etc) . Any ideas?

ALJO · 08-21-2016, 10:30 AM

30 Amp shore line power to the power panel should be #10 inside or out. To the converter might be #14
That you used #14 on your wire stripper means nothing. Any cable has on its insulation the wire conductor information.

Hohenwald48 · 08-21-2016, 11:48 AM

Actually, if you squeeze hard enough, you can strip a #6 stranded wire with the #14 jaws on a wire stripper. Wire size is printed on the outer jacket of the cord. I forget how often but about every 2 feet or so. Either printed or embossed in the outer jacket. Should be something like 10/3 SJ or something similar.

If, in fact, someone has replace your #10 (30 amp) shore cord with #14 (15 amp) cord then you will have a definite voltage drop issue resulting in heating. Shore cords have to be stranded or they would not have the necessary flex required for connecting to the power pedestal.

Also, if your cord is #10 and you stripped the wire with the #14 jaws you have effectively reduced the capacity of the wire form 30 amps to 15 amps by removing not only the insulation but a good portion of the conductive wire strands. You should redo the connections using the proper tools and techniques.

You may also like: