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Old 02-14-2017, 03:29 PM   #1
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Equalizer shank drop Ram SRW 3500?

I purchase a new Ram 3500 6.4 to tow our 2016 28BHBE and was wondering what shank I should buy for our class V hitch. The trailer is sitting on an angle right now, with battery out. So I cannot do the proper measurements... any have this setup? I would like to know which shank to buy for towing. We are getting anxious to camp again!
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Old 02-14-2017, 07:21 PM   #2
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I don't have a 3500 Ram, but the following may be helpful:

I went with a Curt #17128 shank for my TV/TT combination noted in my signature. The "similar" Reese Titan shank was on back order so I went with the Curt. With my TV unloaded and unhitched it's approx. 20 1/2" from the center of my 2 1/2" square receiver pin box to the ground. Top (outside surface) of my TT ball coupler to the ground is approx. 23 1/2".

The Curt shank was compatible with my existing Reese trunnion ball mount #58167..., so confirm your ball mount compatibility once you decide on a new shank.

In some cases a couple of shims may be required even with compatible ball mount/shank assemblies.....,

JOF shim thread: http://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f3...y-38323-2.html

Curt Shank #17128: https://www.curtmfg.com/part/17128

Bob
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Old 02-14-2017, 07:32 PM   #3
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Thanks for the information. I measured my hitch and trailer and input the numbers into the equalizer hitch page, but the trailer is uneven. I think the numbers are invalid. This truck is 3" taller than my 1/2 ton and the suspension will not compress as easy. I may buy the longest and cut it off if needed. You would think there would me a page somewhere to tell you typical drop shanks needed for travel trailers.
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Old 02-14-2017, 08:39 PM   #4
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I bought a Equalizer EQ90-02-4800 shank for my 16 Ram 2500. Your 28BHBE may be slightly taller than my 24RBS, I think the 28 has taller tires?
My trailer rides about 3/4" lower in front and I have two more holes in the shank that I could raise the ball but everything seems good where it's at.
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Old 02-14-2017, 09:14 PM   #5
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Pcschwenke,

Just a FYI.....,

Stay with a 2 1/2" square shank...., the 2 1/2" to 2" adapter to accommodate a 2" square shank will reduce your TV's OEM receiver's maximum tongue weight ratings.

Bob
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Old 02-14-2017, 09:33 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pcschwenke View Post
I purchase a new Ram 3500 6.4 to tow our 2016 28BHBE and was wondering what shank I should buy for our class V hitch. The trailer is sitting on an angle right now, with battery out. So I cannot do the proper measurements... any have this setup? I would like to know which shank to buy for towing. We are getting anxious to camp again!
This one works on our Ram 2500 with the class V hitch, I can have the trailer slightly nose down. Think your setup would be similair

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...0-02-4900.html

No adapter needed, its a 2.5" shank.
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Old 02-15-2017, 07:30 AM   #7
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Thanks for all the replies. I do not want to use the 2" adapter, which is why I'm buying a new shank. The 4900 is what I was leaning toward since it offers a slightly longer drop than the 4800. By the measurements taken, equalizer recommended the new 4700 model. The models are 4700 (3" max drop/7" rise), the 4800 (4" max rise/8" rise), or 4900 (6"max rise/10" drop).

Jasallman1, what hole placement are you on for the hitch?
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Old 02-15-2017, 08:56 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by Rustic Eagle View Post
Pcschwenke,

Just a FYI.....,

Stay with a 2 1/2" square shank...., the 2 1/2" to 2" adapter to accommodate a 2" square shank will reduce your TV's OEM receiver's maximum tongue weight ratings.

Bob
Where does this information come from? I don't see it anywhere in any manual I've looked at.

It has been stated before, but I have trouble understanding why that might be the case.
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Old 02-15-2017, 10:20 AM   #9
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Where does this information come from? I don't see it anywhere in any manual I've looked at.
Bob, there should be a label on your class V hitch that looks similar to this. As you can see, the use of a 2.5" drawbar vs. a 2" with relation to tongue weight is drastic. Potentially up to 500lbs difference on my F-250. Hope this helps, Terry Click image for larger version

Name:	012.jpg
Views:	22
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ID:	29129
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Old 02-15-2017, 06:12 PM   #10
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Interesting, I to need to look on getting something like this because I'm using the sleeve now.
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Old 02-15-2017, 06:42 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pcschwenke View Post
Thanks for all the replies. I do not want to use the 2" adapter, which is why I'm buying a new shank. The 4900 is what I was leaning toward since it offers a slightly longer drop than the 4800. By the measurements taken, equalizer recommended the new 4700 model. The models are 4700 (3" max drop/7" rise), the 4800 (4" max rise/8" rise), or 4900 (6"max rise/10" drop).

Jasallman1, what hole placement are you on for the hitch?
I am at the very bottom, somewhere in the 20.5-22" to top of ball (wasn't on a great surface to measure). My trailer ball receiver is around 22.5 by my install notes level.

Picture Here
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B8...XhCREhFZjNSdUU
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Old 02-15-2017, 06:49 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by TCNashville View Post
Bob, there should be a label on your class V hitch that looks similar to this. As you can see, the use of a 2.5" drawbar vs. a 2" with relation to tongue weight is drastic. Potentially up to 500lbs difference on my F-250. Hope this helps, Terry Attachment 29129
I saw this noted in the Ford towing guide as well, but like Bob, I have not been able to find any mention whatsoever in the Ram 2500 towing guide OR manual or hitch placards. a 2.5" - 2" also came factory with the truck.

E-Trailer also says it shouldn't reduce, but refer to owners manual. https://www.etrailer.com/question-112710.html

That being said I cant understand how one brand it reduces and another it does not :-/

I will say, it definitely introduces more slop. Even with my 2.5" equalizer shank, there is some.
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Old 02-15-2017, 07:12 PM   #13
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Jasallman1, Thank you! This is perfect and exactly what I was looking for! Being I have a 1 ton, it may sit a tad higher but not much. My trailer is not level at all in our yard... we have 4 pcs of 2x12 screwed together under the left wheels to get it level from side to side and the nose is slightly high to help water run off. Not ideal conditions to measure the trailer tongue! The measurement as it sits is 30.625". My truck sits at 23.75" to the top, inside of the hitch on a level surface. As I mentioned before. This truck is 3" taller at the same hitch measurement as my 1/2 ton was. It squashed down a lot when the trailer was hitched. My new one may not move much...
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Old 02-15-2017, 07:12 PM   #14
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Camper_bob,

Quote:
Originally Posted by Camper_bob View Post
Where does this information come from? I don't see it anywhere in any manual I've looked at.......snip
I towed with the receiver reducer initially with my 2016 2500HD until I ran across some sticker/document referencing a reduction in weight rating when using the reducer. IF (a big "IF") my memory serves me correctly my reducer had a 1,200lb maximum, and I tow with a 1,300lb tongue weight. GM supplied the receiver reducer with my TV.

I'll see if I can find the sticker/document that caught my attention.

Bob
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Old 02-16-2017, 07:22 AM   #15
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I saw this noted in the Ford towing guide as well, but like Bob, I have not been able to find any mention whatsoever in the Ram 2500 towing guide OR manual or hitch placards. That being said I cant understand how one brand it reduces and another it does not :-/I will say, it definitely introduces more slop. Even with my 2.5" equalizer shank, there is some.
You know this got me thinking and that's never a good sign. My original set up from Reese was a 1500lb trunnion style WDH with a 2" drawbar rated at 1500lbs. The tongue on my camper is 1400lb scaled. So at first I was using the adapter with the 1500lb system until I realized that I was only rated at 1250lbs w/ adapter per my hitch placard, so I went out and purchased the 2.5" Reese Titan drawbar. I understand that a 2.5" drawbar is a lot heavier duty than a 2'' but according to my hitch placard the 1500lb rated 2'' drawbar was de-rated to 1250lbs with use of the adapter? All I can think of is it must be the slop in the system with the adapter that's the weak link, or am I missing something else?
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Old 02-16-2017, 08:43 AM   #16
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You know this got me thinking and that's never a good sign. My original set up from Reese was a 1500lb trunnion style WDH with a 2" drawbar rated at 1500lbs. The tongue on my camper is 1400lb scaled. So at first I was using the adapter with the 1500lb system until I realized that I was only rated at 1250lbs w/ adapter per my hitch placard, so I went out and purchased the 2.5" Reese Titan drawbar. I understand that a 2.5" drawbar is a lot heavier duty than a 2'' but according to my hitch placard the 1500lb rated 2'' drawbar was de-rated to 1250lbs with use of the adapter? All I can think of is it must be the slop in the system with the adapter that's the weak link, or am I missing something else?
I agree completely. Why is there a reduction? As long as the shank itself can handle the weight, and the receiver can handle the weight, why does the adapter make any difference at all? I'm no engineer, but I just can't see a physical difference between the two related to the forces applied to the receiver. Other than the aforementioned "slop", which really isn't so bad on my receiver. Certainly no worse than my 2" receiver on my last truck "naked" (that was A LOT of slop).

Also, I've looked all over the receiver on my Ram 2500 and have found no information attached to it. I will look again next time I'm down there and be sure to examine the entire receiver carefully from frame bolts to receiver opening. On my GMC, there was a placard readily visible on the front of the main cross-tube with classification and capacities on the receiver, but so far not the case with my Ram. I assume it's a Class V because that's what's listed in the vehicle specifications, and it's a 2-1/2" receiver. In fact, the manuals are startlingly light on "towing information" IMO. I can't find any information on the specifications for weight distributing hitches (like how much weight you're supposed to return to the front axle), etc. in any of the manuals for my truck OR any of the online towing guides for Ram.

When I purchased my Blue Ox Sway Pro last year, I got a 2" shank because that's all they had that offered the drop I needed. I shopped extensively for a 2-1/2" shank with the drop I needed and found VERY few options. In the end I was not confident using another brand shank with my brand new hitch right out of the gate. Granted, I would like to have the 2-1/2" shank, and I might buy one some day, but for now I'm using the 2" with the adapter sleeve, and so far I've had no problems.
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Old 02-16-2017, 10:08 PM   #17
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Camper_bob,

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snip..... Why is there a reduction? As long as the shank itself can handle the weight, and the receiver can handle the weight, why does the adapter make any difference at all?......snip
I think it may have more to do with the fact that there are different weight limit definitions associated to a Class IV receiver hitch, and Class V receiver hitches. I sense that the big three have their individual interpretations (towing wars), as do OEM hitch manufactures (Reese, Curt, etc.).

Since receiver pin box size correlates with tongue weight limits in hitch "Class" descriptions, possibly to some by inserting a 2 1/2" to 2" reducer sleeve essentially creates a 2" receiver pin box...., which might be where Ford is coming from.

Some Class IV tongue weight differences:

Class IV:
Maximum gross trailer weight: up to 12,000 lbs
Maximum tongue weight: up to 1,200 lbs
Receiver opening: 2" x 2"

Source: https://www.etrailer.com/faq-hitchclasses.aspx

Class IV:

Maximum gross trailer weight: up to 14,000 lbs
Maximum tongue weight: up to 1,400 lbs
Receiver opening: 2" x 2"

Source: https://www.reese-hitches.com/learni...towing-classes

In the case of some Class V descriptions I found some state only a 2 1/2" receiver opening, where others state a Class V can have a 2 1/2" or 2" receiver opening.

I did confirm that a friend purchased a Reese 2 1/2" to 2" reducer sleeve with a sticker attached stating; "1,200lb Max Tongue Weight".

That's the best uneducated guess I can come up with

Bob

PS: I apologize to the OP for drifting off topic.
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Old 02-17-2017, 07:11 AM   #18
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My 2015 Ram 2500 needed a 9" drop shank, the 6" was too short. Hope this helps. If I had it to do over again, I would have purchased a 2.5" shank.

We stumbled into a good used diesel 2500 in the middle of camping season and ending up buying it on a Tuesday and had a camping trip on Friday. With the steep grade of my driveway, I needed a drop shank just to get out of the driveway... so I couldn't take the time to wait and find a 2.5" shank. I went out to my local store and bought a 2" shank.
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Old 02-17-2017, 07:20 AM   #19
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Since receiver pin box size correlates with tongue weight limits in hitch "Class" descriptions, possibly to some by inserting a 2 1/2" to 2" reducer sleeve essentially creates a 2" receiver pin box...., which might be where Ford is coming from. That's the best uneducated guess I can come up with
What I'm getting from this is the use of an adapter sleeve in a 2.5'' class V hitch essentially turns it into a class IV hitch?
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Old 02-17-2017, 12:36 PM   #20
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What I'm getting from this is the use of an adapter sleeve in a 2.5'' class V hitch essentially turns it into a class IV hitch?
In Ford's case it's very possible...., because of their stated reduction in tongue weight on their OEM receiver when using the adapter, and the close correlation to the Class IV tongue weight limit in the link I provided.

I'm not implying it's "across the board", I was offering a possible reason behind Ford's weight reduction with the adapter, and Reese's weight reduction sticker on their adapter that a friend purchased a couple years ago.

Your comment.. "All I can think of is it must be the slop in the system with the adapter that's the weak link, or am I missing something else"...., and Camper-bob's follow-up to your post got me thinking 'outside-the-box'.

Bob
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