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Old 08-11-2018, 01:48 PM   #1
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Factory battery disconnect, is this right?

Couple month old Eagle 330RSTS. Noticed every time I go to the trailer, battery is dead. I don't really dry camp, so I just like to have enough juice to run the tongue jack or throw some lights on. Good news is that I can just hook it up to the truck and charge enough to get it hitched, but it always bothered me that it discharged so quickly when I always remembered to throw the factory disconnect to off.

Which leads me to...when I throw the factory installed battery disconnect in the pass through storage to off, the only things that appear to stop working are the inverter and the tongue jack (BAL 7.3 auto leveling). All of the interior 12V appears to still be powered, so at least that explains why my battery is drained.

Manual says "The Battery Disconnect switch is typically located in an enclosed exterior compartment. The style of the disconnect switch may vary per model. This switch does not shut off all power, but only shuts off the 12VDC power to the main 12V fuse panel, and the interior of the vehicle.
Batteries can still be trickle charged by the converter, and there will still be
power to some devices."

This would lead me to believe there might be something miswired with the switch. I haven't taken anything apart to check, but just wanted to verify with others that this is supposed to be a battery disconnect and not an inverter shut off switch, which is apparently all it does now. I'm sure I could easily add another cutoff if it is the latter, but my impression was that it should be a battery disconnect.
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Old 08-11-2018, 04:05 PM   #2
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Same issue with my 291rsts 5th. Batteries will last a week or so and will be dead. I solved my issue by adding a 100 watt solar panel. Even on cloudy days it keeps the batteries charged. If I ever store it indoors, I’ll add a switch at the battery to shut off power 100%.
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Old 08-11-2018, 04:24 PM   #3
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I added a very simple and positive battery disconnect switch right on the battery terminal.

I use this one

https://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-...witch+top+post

Had one that had a switch but it broke after second or third use.

You just partially or completely unscrew the knob to disconnect.
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Old 08-11-2018, 07:01 PM   #4
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If the unit is stored at your house, or where you have 110v, why not just hook up a trickle charger to it, it will keep up with the parasitic drain
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Old 08-11-2018, 07:23 PM   #5
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Seems like most factory battery disconnects only disconnect SOME circuits, and others are left live, so a drain still occurs.

Many people install a true complete disconnect as well for storage situations that stops the drain.
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Old 08-11-2018, 07:35 PM   #6
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It is my understanding that even with the disconnect; there are some drains such as smoke alarm, co, etc. that will drain your battery. Speaking from experience. We will leave the battery but unplug one connection with the disconnect turned off.
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Old 08-11-2018, 07:46 PM   #7
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I've never understood why RV manufacturers install a battery disconnect switch that doesn't fully disconnect the battery. morleyz, install one of these https://www.ebay.com/itm/Marinco-701...-/172215989926 at your battery and you should be fine.
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Old 08-12-2018, 04:12 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morleyz View Post
Couple month old Eagle 330RSTS. Noticed every time I go to the trailer, battery is dead. I don't really dry camp, so I just like to have enough juice to run the tongue jack or throw some lights on. Good news is that I can just hook it up to the truck and charge enough to get it hitched, but it always bothered me that it discharged so quickly when I always remembered to throw the factory disconnect to off.

Which leads me to...when I throw the factory installed battery disconnect in the pass through storage to off, the only things that appear to stop working are the inverter and the tongue jack (BAL 7.3 auto leveling). All of the interior 12V appears to still be powered, so at least that explains why my battery is drained.

Manual says "The Battery Disconnect switch is typically located in an enclosed exterior compartment. The style of the disconnect switch may vary per model. This switch does not shut off all power, but only shuts off the 12VDC power to the main 12V fuse panel, and the interior of the vehicle.
Batteries can still be trickle charged by the converter, and there will still be
power to some devices."

This would lead me to believe there might be something miswired with the switch. I haven't taken anything apart to check, but just wanted to verify with others that this is supposed to be a battery disconnect and not an inverter shut off switch, which is apparently all it does now. I'm sure I could easily add another cutoff if it is the latter, but my impression was that it should be a battery disconnect.
Might want to read this thread

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...ory-59727.html
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Old 08-12-2018, 06:46 AM   #9
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we have a 330 RSTS that red switch in the front storage is your disconnect ( I know you know that) anyway there are several wires under that switch if you look you will see I thing two screws there was enough length in the wire on mine to pull that out and look, I pulled mine loose due to looking for pre wire on my solar panels ( found every thing and have 3 100 watt panels now , you can send me a pm if you like
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Old 08-12-2018, 04:24 PM   #10
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I know I have the same issue in my 291rsts. The disconnect stops charging but leaves everything else on. This will be my first warranty item since I purchased it a year ago. I thought about reading the posts a few more times to figure it out myself, but I think I’ll just wait until winter and take it to the dealer to figure out.
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Old 08-12-2018, 06:53 PM   #11
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Thanks for all the feedback. I think I'll pull the panel and trace some of the wiring and see if I can't straighten it out, otherwise I'll go the route of adding a second, true cutoff. I'll be sure to let everyone know what I find if it turns out to be miswiring.
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Old 08-13-2018, 11:41 AM   #12
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I also bought the battery disconnect that mounts to the terminal. I think I paid $8 at Harbor Freight. The only hassle is you have to have easy access to the terminals so you can unscrew it. I drilled a hole in my plastic cover and used a plug to keep the water out. Good luck.
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Old 08-13-2018, 11:42 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kozmo View Post
I also bought the battery disconnect that mounts to the terminal. I think I paid $8 at Harbor Freight. The only hassle is you have to have easy access to the terminals so you can unscrew it. I drilled a hole in my plastic cover and used a plug to keep the water out. Good luck.
I had this on my White Hawk and was super annoyed with always having to remove the strap on the battery box and too cheap to get a better box/lid. Good suggestion if I go that route.
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Old 08-13-2018, 11:49 AM   #14
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I use this type, and mount it on the exterior of my battery box.
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Old 09-05-2018, 05:31 PM   #15
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Solved. Converter was wired backwards.

Checked the switch first and everything looked correct there. Found that the main DC+ wire for the coach was wired on the battery side of the disconnect, so that made sense why the coach stays on when the switch is off.

Looked up the wiring diagram from Progressive Dynamics and saw that there are two DC+ lugs on the converter panel. If you have a DC disconnect switch, you have to wire a specific one to the battery side of the switch and the other to the disconnected side of the switch, then remove a jumper between the two lugs. The wires here were swapped. I switched them and now it works properly. When the disconnect switch is in the off position, the whole coach is powered down, but the converter still charges the battery if on shore power.
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Old 10-29-2018, 07:14 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrumpyDad View Post

I use this type, and mount it on the exterior of my battery box.
Do you have any pics of your install?
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Old 10-29-2018, 07:18 PM   #17
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My Eagle is wired incorrectly also. Have not had it for service yet, I need to look to see if I can correct the issue myself.
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Old 10-30-2018, 11:24 AM   #18
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My Eagle is wired incorrectly also. Have not had it for service yet, I need to look to see if I can correct the issue myself.
If you're pretty handy, get a copy of the Progressive Dynamics manual for your converter check these wires with a voltmeter. With the disconnect switch off, one of these wires is supposed to be hot and the other not (verify with the manual which one is which). These are the wires:

Click image for larger version

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Mine were backwards. Disconnected the battery, undid the lugs and swapped the wires and now it works properly.
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