Filling in roof low spot

[dcavaiani]

I have a 1.25 foot diameter low spot on the corner of my curved tpo roof where water sits. It holds at most 3/4 of an inch deep water at the center of low spot.

Can I glob on a mass of self-leveling Dicor or something else so water will drain off to the drip track normally ?

[spoon059]

How old is your trailer? A low spot would seem to indicate a much bigger problem than simply pooling water.

[dcavaiani]

Not old - 2006 Jayco 31BHDS.

[dcavaiani]

I'm really not too concerned because I believe this T.T. has some kind of a Styrofoam fused core curved roof - which likely has a lot of "soft" spots when you walk on them. I try to walk lightly when up there - disappointing, but not a need to "dump" the T.T. yet, unless someone knows better?

[Menn80]

The roof on this is a truss roof. Any low spot is a sign of more problems.

[dcavaiani]

But, can a Jayco that new be trashed already?

[Ustabslim]

It's almost 10 years old. Any leak in that area would be rotten now.

[dcavaiani]

How would describe rotten?

[Menn80]

Originally Posted by dcavaiani

How would describe rotten?

Any kind of soft spot, low spot, is rot. The wood has gotten wet and has started to degrade. This can be fixed but I would not use a self leveling sealant to fix it. You need to get under it and get rid of the rot first otherwise it will only ever spread. Then make sure everything that needs to be sealed is sealed good.

[dcavaiani]

"You need to get under it and get rid of the rot first otherwise it will only ever spread." - You make that sound SO EASY ;-)

[Menn80]

Originally Posted by dcavaiani

"You need to get under it and get rid of the rot first otherwise it will only ever spread." - You make that sound SO EASY ;-)

Never said it would be easy, just stating what needs to happen. The plywood under the rubber stays wet. Unless you can get under the rubber and removed the bad wood it will stay wet until you put a foot through your roof.

Sorry I don't mean to sound so rude.

[Old Blue]

I would think there would be signs of a leak on the inside of the trailer some where the ceiling , walls but some where not just a low spot on the roof

[dcavaiani]

There was about a half cup of water which leaked just this past November when the ice "moved" the adjacent seam, and then it thawed and leaked. However, there is no smell of must nor mold, and I don't believe there is real "creep" issue of water damage that will occur if I block that leak/seam/low spot going forward. I am NOT going to step on that very corner again ;-). I can remove the air conditioning vent in the bedroom ceiling and blow in air in order to dry out the underside roof portion which is somewhat wet I'm sure.

[clubhouse]

I recall your previous posts on this topic too. It sounds like your roof has some issues. I recall you had received a quote from an RV repair shop to replace the entire roof for $5K.

This is certainly one of those no good choices.

- You have a confirmed leak
- Left uncorreceted it will continue to rot, destroying considerably more than has already been damaged.
- A 2006 MY trailer with roof damage and a leak certainly isn't worth much if you try to sell it.
- If you dont' correct it, it will be worth nothing pretty quickly

IMO if you like the TT have it repaired correctly and replace the roof. Maybe call around and get a couple more quotes. Once corrected you will have many more years of service from that TT.

If you don't like TT honestly disclose the roof issue and sell it to a DIYer that will fix on their own and be happy with the trailer.

Doing nothing or simply trying to cover the low spot as you suggested will destroy any value that might remain.

Best of luck

[mohok1]

Originally Posted by dcavaiani

But, can a Jayco that new be trashed already?

Yes. Jayco replaced the entire front end of my 2009 32BHDS in Jun of 2012 due to extensive structural rot. You don't really know what is going on until something is visible on the outside. Is this your first RV? I my humble opinion, and I have owned 3 RV's in the past 35 years, the number one problem in the RV industry is concealed water damage. All manufacturers face the same problems no matter what hype they put out to sale them.

[spoon059]

Originally Posted by dcavaiani

"You need to get under it and get rid of the rot first otherwise it will only ever spread." - You make that sound SO EASY ;-)

It's not as difficult as you might think. They sell liquid EPDM rubber (if your roof is EPDM) that literally gets brushed on like paint. I had a tear in my roof that leaked and rotted the roof.

I cut the rubber out and replaced the rotted plywood decking. I then painted the liquid EPDM on. It bonds to the original sheet roofing and makes it a seamless piece... not a patch. No leaks.

Cost was a 2x2 sheet of 1/2" plywood and a quart of liquid EPDM. It was under $50 total from what I remember.

[2005 31bhds]

Your roof has the same problem that I told you ours had, if this problem is not taken care of you will have major problems. Actually you already do have major problems, this should be addressed sooner rather than later. This unit does not have a styrofoam roof it has a truss, and plywood roof. Good luck

[dcavaiani]

This looks like exactly what I think I might find ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mx6p8u8HuKY

[dcavaiani]

Does a tpo main roof membrane roll back just as does an EPDM membrane?

[Chata]

TPO is very easy to fix, it behaves just like a rubber, before you cut it opened , clean the area with TPO cleaner or use SprayNine- Home Depot carries it, cut three sides, make sure that cut is big enough, don't want to make too many cuts, flip it opened, take all damaged stuff out, replace it with new material, close the cut, use the cleaner again, seal the cuts with eternabond tape, cut the corners round and overlap tape over each other, apply self leveling caulking around all sides, will never leak as long as roof is clean and dry before you apply the tape, if too cold outside or roof is wet , use a hair dryer